Check for bad relays and fuses. I had a **** ton of issues with mine. Come to find out bad ASD relay. Also. How new are the batteries?

 

I have checked all the fuses. As for relays. I don't even know where those are. Is the ASD relay on the left side of the steering column?

Batteries are maybe 3 years old. I checked them both and their around 12.8 V.

I cleared the codes just to double check the I did not run the batteries down to low while trying to start it. Sure enough the only code I have now is the one for the fan clutch and I know its disconnected.

I going back out there and replace the rubber hose between the CP3 pump and the filter. Seems like something I was reading today said that has been a problem for others.

 

Relays are the little grey boxes in the fuse panel, under the hood.

 

I found them. All the relays look fine.

I had the truck towed to the dealer today. Kills me to let those fools work on my truck. I told them to use the computer and check all the injectors.


No news yet. I will follow up with after I get all the facts.

 

Yeah unfortunately they have the scan tool required. Hopefully something simple.

 

I got the truck back from the dealer. All the injectors check out fine which I am happy about. The tech told me that the lift pump in the fuel tank is bad, and they wanted $1,000 to replace it. LMAO! Not a chance in hell I would let them work on my truck let alone pay them to do it.

Still hard for me to believe that the lift pump is bad, but it is the only major component I have not replaced. I am hoping for the best.

I have the bed and fill lines unbolted. As soon as it stops raining here I will get the tractor out lift the bed off the truck. The lift pump came in Friday. Paid $180.00, that included shipping.

 

Good deal. Your choice with the lift pump bad. May want to do an external pump like a FASS or Airdog.

 

p38251 you have a good point about installing an after market pump. When this one goes bad I will go that route.

I have replaced the lift pump in the tank with an OEM pump. If you decide to do this yourself the easiest way is by removing the bed. Remove: 6 bolts, grounding strap and tail lights and the whole bed will come off. My son and I did lifted it off by ourselves. Not say its not heavy, it is.

Just as I suspected the dealer tech here in Cleveland TN really had no idea what the problem is. They just wanted to charge me $135 an hour to replace parts. I did ask the tech what would happen if I let them replace the lift pump for $1000.00 and that was not the problem. Her response was what I expected. To bad! You still pay. Also, she told me they checked the injectors and they reported all them were functioning properly. Have 0 faith in them now. Wasted my money!

I have replaced every major item in the fuel system now. My last thought is one of the new injectors has failed some how.

Question: If one of the injectors has failed, maybe to the point of complete leak down, would that keep the others from building enough pressure to ionize?

I am already in the process of removing each injector for inspection.

Question: What should I be looking for when I have them out.

The injectors are still under warranty for 6 more months.

 

The dealer should do an injector leak down test. They can also test them electrically. Physically an injector can look okay and be failed internally. I would suggest a different dealer. And if they charged you and it was an injector issue. I would be on the phone with ram to get your money back.

 

I really feel like an idiot on this one. I have never had car problem last so long.

I have pulled all the injectors. There is nothing visually wrong with them. After I put them back I am going to try and test them electorally.

Can I use my multi-meter to check and see if there is signal getting to the injectors?

I have replaced everything in the fuel system I can think of. Now I am going to start trouble shooting the electrically side the best I can.

Do you have any suggestions as to where the best place to start?

I am grateful for your input.