OK, this is for the Diesel Mechanic types out there. I'm braced for the worst answer, so let's hear it.

Here's the run-down: I can get a Dead Pedal feeling intermittently. But, it seems to be very predictable, Engine good an warmed up, then I have to hold my speed between 45 and 57.5 for a while (say 30 seconds). When I push the pedal I get almost no fuel response, but it doesn't defuel, unless I let off just a little bit. I can get all the fuel back if I let off completely, then put the pedal back down, in goes the fuel and off I take. When I get the dead portion when I press the pedal I can hear it add a tiny ammount of fuel, if I happen to hit 57.5 (I watched really close) the pump will send in the fuel and oof I go. I never get Dead Pedal if I stay above 57.5, and I've never gotten anything below 45. When I hit 45 and O/D locks in, if I keep the pedal down, no problems goes just like it should. I don't have a CEL, I have checked the codes, all I get is P1693, most places I look this is a code in a companion module (haven't had a MOPAR reader hooked up to it), one reader said it was "Tachometer circuit malfunction."

What do ya'll think? Like I said I'm braced for the VP44 answer, just disturbed that I don't get a CEL and I don't see a P0216. Plus, I figured the VP would act up more randomly and definitely not be tied to speed.

 

My 2000 deisel was doing the same thing. My mechanic thought it was the Throttle Position Sensor and even replaced it. It still did it. After he consulted a few Dodge mechanics, he discovered it is due to a small ground wire that goes to one of the negative battery terminals. He said the connector goes bad. He cut the connector off and hard wired it. It runs fine now! I believe the ground wire goes to the TPS.
Try it.
Todd Young
Santa Fe, Texas

 

I was informed that this wire splits off from the battery. It Y's off to the alternator and to the computer. I dont know if it was loose at the Y or where it connects to the battery, but it diffinitely fixed the problem.

 

P1693= Turbo Charge Control Circuit Malfunction


I'm wondering if your MAP sensor is going out. . .

 

Drew,
I saw that one listed on your DTC page, other pages I look at say:

And above I stated what my friend's reader came up with (autotap running on a laptop). Which one is the real meaning?

I took a look at my ground connections last night. Both batteries have a couple grounds going to the body. The passenger side one had a large ground with a connector in it that went to the alternator wiring harness, ther is a spot on that one (after the connector) that looks like the insulation got a bit hot. this one had an orange tracer on it, is that the ground youre talking about Goatwagon? My battery connections are pretty bad, not corroded, just broken and on their last leg. Anyone have a good source for an OEM style harness to connect the batteries? I really don't want to go to the screw terminal type connectors.

 

I will look to see if there are any stripes on the wires. They were just black 10 or 8 gauge wires. One came directly from the alternator and the other from the passenger side firewall. I was told there was an OEM connector which is probably what was bad. My mechanic was advised of this by a 20 year dodge dealer mechanic who first kept saying it was the TPS. After the new TPS failed to solve the prob, the dodge guy said the new TPS may be bad also. Then he snapped and advised to hardwire the described wires. I can take a picture of the wires and e-mail it to you. From my experience, these Dodge trucks are plagued with electrical problems. I have always been told the truck falls apart around the CTD engine. "Best diesel engine, in the worst truck". Ford needs to take their CTD back from Dodge.

 

have you tried re-calibrating the APPS .

This is a mixture of quotes from the manual and what I have read about this issue:

disconnect both negative cables from the batteries

turn on headlights ( this drains capacitors supposedly)

Take a 30 minute break

re-connect batteries

(the rest is right out of the manual:
ECM Calibration:
Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release.
This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been
learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC s may be set. Use DRB scan tool to erase any DTC s from ECM/PCM.

Curse because your clock and radio have to be reset.

----------------------------------------

I am having a similar situation, but I won't be able to get to do this until the weekend. You might want to go to a parts store and have them read the codes..1693 is pretty general...from what I have heard it just means "something aint right". I got the exact same code with key on/off x 3 but the reader found it was my map sensor . I am going to clean it ( and the ait) this weekend with carburator cleaner first.

look at it this way...all the things I recommend you try are free.

 

Well, this weekend I replaced both ground harnesses on my batteries. At the same time I did an APPS reset. In my shakedown run I still got it to go into "Dead pedal" a couple times. Seemed like it wasn't quite as quick to as before, but still did it. The ground that goes from the passenger battery to the harness at the alternator (goes into the loom there, don't know where it heads) does have a bad spot in it right after the connector. Does anyone happen to have a part number for that wire? Or at least know where it goes so I can find it from the Dealer.

Thanks
-Bat