Hello fellow Dodge friends.. I need your help and advise.. I have a 2000 Ram Van Conversion, 3.9L V6.. Around 87K miles in it. I love my van but last weekend out on the lake it died on me.. I tried to start it and as soon as I turn the switch,, I heard a noise coming out of the front of the van inside the motor it sound like a constant clinking of a relay.. clicking away very fast.. As I tried to start it the starter will turn but the motor did not start it. I thought it was the battery so I swap it with a good battery.. Again the buzzing or clicking of the ASD relay came on as soon as I turn the ignition switch.. The starter will turn like it should but no ignition, no start.. I left the key in the on position and the relay constantly stays on clicking very fast. I noticed all my gauges did not came on..battery charge, Oil, Temp, Fuel,,,, Now all my lights and radio worked fine..

I swapped the ASD relay with another from fuse box outside the van. Still the relay kept buzzing and not ignition, no start. As I continue to start the van I also notice another relay buzzing inside the van in the fuse box area right below the fuses. Now I do not know what the relay does sinceI do not have the owners manual and neither the fuse door mentions it. I did remove them both relays the outside and the interior and the buzzing stopped.

Ispilled some gas inside the air intake (fuel injection).. but still not ignition, no start. I removed one spark plug cable and tried to start t to see if their is spark between the engine block and cable but no spark.. No ignition. I checked the automatic shut down relay with ohmeter so far.

I measure resistance from 86 to 85,, 75 ohm, from 30 to 87A,, 0.01 ohm continuity, I know it is getting voltage since is buzzing..

With battery disconnected and switch off position in the socket where the relay goesI measure resistace from 30to battery + 0.01 ohm continuity,with switch on from 86 to battery +,, 0.01 ohm continuity,. .

I also disconnected the fuel pump from power cable the relay continue to make noise,, clicking continuosly,
What could it be.. Computer? Distribuitor, fuel pump...

Please help!@

 

You have a short in the wiring to ground on the secondary side of the relay (non-battery +12v side).

What's happening is the relay energizes, causes the short, the short cause the drop in available voltage so the relay kicks out. Now that the relay has kicked out, there is power to energize it again, so it does and in doing so brings the short back into play starting the cycle all over again.

 

Where could it be.? I need a wiring diagram of my van.. The Haynes book is really generic.. Do you know any websites or books available with wiring diagram 2000 VAN.. Before the van died,,, it ran fine no issues.. I did notize the back blower fan unit for Air conditioner was blowing hot air and smell like smoke.. Like somethingburned inside the blower/fan behind the back seat.. I will check it out tomorow.

Thanks! Alloro... Should I disconnect the battery,, Could the short to grounddamage the ECM?

 

The Haynes book is just as you said, useless. I bought the Chilton DVD which is much better for this van.
http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse...amp;cat2ID=CHM

The ECM could be damaged because of the electrical spikes being caused by the arcing that occurs as the relay kicks in and out. The ECM has a degree of protection built in, but everything has it's limitations.

 

Schematic:

 

Alloro.. I checked the rear AC fan/blower power and there is no short there.. I removed all relays and tested tthem again.. For resistance and applied power the see if there OK too. They are fine all good.. I later removed all fuses and tried to start the engine.. As I added the fuses inside I tried to start the engine.. I noticed that when all fuses are in except the ASD/Fuel fuse is out the relays do not click on/off continuosly.. But as I add the ASD/Fuel fuse with ignition key on the relays start to click on/off continuosly.. I fully charge the battery last night, since I was gonna play with the issue in the van. I checked all of my cables for hitch and all light for cuts or grounding problems.. They were ok.. Later tried to start the van without the coil connected to ignition and the relays continue to click continuosly.. I repeated the same for the pickup coil, fuel pump, open door alarm buzzer, with all the same thing happen with the relays. When I removed the PCM the relays did not click on/off continuosly.

Is there a test for the PCM..

Erick

 

What about the injectors? You didn't mention them and they are on the ASD circuit. One of the injectors could be internally shorted. Disconnect them all and see if the relay stops buzzing. If so, reconnect them one at a time until the relay buzzes and you will have found the problematic one.

There is no shade-tree mechanic test for the PCM.

 

Alloro.

I just disconnected the injectors along with fuel pump wires.. Still the relays are still clicking (buzzing).. Any thoughts?
I really appreciate your help! I am begining to think is theECM.. PRT# 56040346AE..

What you think?

 

Well everything prior to the PCM seems to check out okay. So now you're left with two possibilities.

One, it's the PCM which is a 300 or so dollar gamble and I'm inclined to think it is not the PCM since the ASD relay is actually getting powered.

Two, one of the + outputs from the PCM (such as the fuel pump relay output) is where the short lies. My 30 years of shade-tree mechanics coupled with my 20 years as an electrician is telling me it is a short to ground. The ASD relay powers up the PCM, which in turn supplies power to other circuits thus engaging the short and power loss cycle I described in my first post.

Electrical issues are the most frustrating problem to try and diagnose without actually being there. [sm=headbang.gif]

 

Alloro..
I been testing all others sensors and modules, Oxigen,throtle,camshaft, oxigen, AC, all relays, Speed, manifold, TPS. Rear AC, All lights,,
Can not find short, removed PCM/ECM just to test for resistence at relays socket, notice there is continuity between 30 and 87 splice. All relays but transmision have continuity between 30 and 87. (battery feed and ignition,, is not suppose to right??) no battery connected and ignition off and no ECM/PCM..

The connector for fuel pump and sending unit is located under driver side seat under the van it has 4 wires, Am I corect?
When testing sending unit it meassure 135 ohm since tank has gas but when testing pump wires it shows continuity. But if I disconnect the wires it still has a short,,,?? I do not know if I am testing the right fuel pump wires? Since can not see the pump have to take the tankdown?
I agree with you it is not the PCM/ECM? $603. According to haynes book the green wire and black are pump 12V.. When I apply power I hear a noise and noticed later green oil thin on the floor right under a hose driver side back.. Near back bumber on the floor, ??????//////

Not cooland, oil ???? What could it be? I just power pump for 5-10 second or less.. Hose looks like over flow disposal from tank area?????

HOW CANI BE SURE THE WIRES ARE FOR FUEL PUMP.. HOW MANY WIRES THE PUMP SHOULD HAVE AN D COLOR CODE?

Before I forget again thanks man.. You the man!