I just bought this problem, 00 ram van 3spd v6 off my friend. I know they were working about 8 days ago.
He told me that the headlights were flickering, and now do not come on... he didn't know what the problem was. they are infact, not working.
I tried looking to see if there was an exclusive headlight fuse, but I couldn't find anything in the 2 locations known - left side dash board driver side, and next to the battery. all my other lights work properly.
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It was the headlight switch. pulled the panel cover, removed the 3 screws, disconnected the old/existing switch and saw that it was a little burnt at the connectors.
$30 at autozone, sw220.
it's new things that I am going to learn about this van that'll make me love it.
I have a 97 ram sport 1500 w/260,000 mi and I have an ongoing headlite problem. They go out! The first time I replace the switch from LMC. Lites went out about a year later so I got one from the dialership. Lites went out again in about 6 mos. Replaced it with the one from LMC untell..yep, out again! My truck doesn't have a relay. My machanic wired in a relay about 6 mos ago and was doin fine untell last weekend. Any ideas? David
This is a well known issue. You can also search for headlight switch over in the Dodge ram truck section as this affects both the truck and van.
Most often the issue is the headlight switch connector becomes loose or corroded and this results in the headlight switch overheating and burning up. In general the headlight switch, its wiring and connectors, are all just marginally spec'd for the load. Very often people report replacing the switch several times before the connector itself finally burns up, revealing the actual issue.
I would also double check or replace the headlight bulbs making sure you are using stock bulbs. If aftermarket light bulbs with higher wattage are installed it is very likely to overload the circuit and cause damage to the switch and connector just that much faster.
A bad/weak ground on the body near the headlamps will also contribute to overheating the switch and circuit breaker within. The ground for my passenger side headlamp was right next to the light, for the driver's side, behind the battery.
I removed the headlamp current from my headlight switch.
The original High/low beam wiring now activates relays which pass the current through thicker wiring and a much shorter circuit path, and I get another 2+ volts at the bulb, and a whole lot more light output.
After having an intermittent passenger headlamp for the past year, I finally picked up on a bad headlamp socket after changing the bulb in the faulty side once, without fixing the problem. WHile checking for a replacement socket with NAPA, they list a hi-temp and standard socket. I just bought two hi-temp sockets, and will check the grounds when I replace them soon. I also think they are not very bright, so maybe the ground is the issue. Thanks everyone for the good information...