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  #31  
Old 07-25-2009, 06:36 PM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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Quick question. Is there another way I can drain the block? My block drains are super corroded and I dont feel like this could have a good ending. So, before pulling the intake manny how can I be sure the block is empty so that coolant doesnt flow into the cylinders? Are the drains the only way?

Thanks,
Greg

ps--drained radiator and pulled upper and lower radiator hoses from circ pump/intake manny.

pss--how does the fuel fitting come off the driver side fuel rail? special tool? or just pull?

thanks.
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  #32  
Old 07-25-2009, 06:54 PM
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lilredex lilredex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregstukey View Post
Quick question. Is there another way I can drain the block? My block drains are super corroded and I dont feel like this could have a good ending. So, before pulling the intake manny how can I be sure the block is empty so that coolant doesnt flow into the cylinders? Are the drains the only way?

Thanks,
Greg

The other way to drain the block is to knock out frost plugs.........but I don't think you really want to go that route. They come originally with a 1/4" NPT steel plug. Get a 6 point (9/16") socket on there and remove them. They can be tough, but they will come out. Good time to flush out the junk in there also. Put in brass petcocks when you are finished.
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  #33  
Old 07-26-2009, 11:01 AM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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As for the fuel fitting to the rail---is there some other way of removing the quick fitting without a "special tool?"

-G
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  #34  
Old 08-01-2009, 11:44 AM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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Ok---we're downtown. Got the head off successfully. The cylinder in questing is the second one from the front on the right bank which I believe is #4. Anyway, its hard to see any leak there but it seams as though the seat is damaged/warped on the exhaust valve. The valves are very wet looking and quite a bit of residue (from the fuel not being ignited i assume) is caked all around. All valves are pretty black.

Is there anything else I should look for? Gasket was pretty clean and in one piece. Ill try to post some photos.

-G
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  #35  
Old 08-05-2009, 02:15 PM
carpetvan carpetvan is offline
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Vehicle: 1987 dodge ram van se 250
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sounds like a valve guide problem(worn) or bad rotators or broken valve spring. which in turn burnt the valve/seat. a automotive machine shop will tell you the whole story. if there are rotators on the exhaust valves have them replaced or replaced with solid non rotators. rotators look like a thick valve retainer. like the intake has(thin)

Last edited by carpetvan; 08-05-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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  #36  
Old 08-05-2009, 09:58 PM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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Its totally a bent exhaust valve stem. Looks like the leaning tower of Piza when you put it on a true surface.

Thanks to everyone for the help in the diagnostic. Now for the reassembly....
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  #37  
Old 08-05-2009, 10:16 PM
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Mobile Auto Repair Mobile Auto Repair is offline
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What caused it to bend? Look to see if it hit the piston. If so then I would look at replacing the valve spring and lifter for valve.
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  #38  
Old 08-06-2009, 07:56 AM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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Going with a reman'ed head with new springs, guides, etc. The piston looks like it wasnt hit. No scratch on it and there's nothing broken off the valve...

its definately strange....it must of hit right? what else could bend the valve?
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  #39  
Old 08-23-2009, 09:42 AM
gregstukey gregstukey is offline
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150 psi across the right bank. Stoked. Engine running well...waiting on a new cat. Thanks for all the help throughout the process.

-Greg
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1995, 1997, caravan, compression, cylinders, dodge, fuel, intextauto, intrepid, rail, ram, remove, repair, rt, stealth, stratus

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