Just going by the list of works/don't work, I would check the ignition switch. I couldn't say with absolute certainty, but it's quite possible all the don't works are things that are disabled whe the ignition switch is turning over the starter. Could be that the bypass to those circuits has managed to become permanent.
That makes some sense to me, I pulled the cover off the steering column to replace the wiper switch and there is some.... lets just say... not so awesome stuff going on in there.
So would you say that... if that is the problem. Replacing the ignition switch might be the ticket? I have noticed sometimes it takes some work to get the key outta the ignition after turning the van off.
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You don't want to know the only way I know how to pull an ignition switch. Maybe someone here has some locksmithing experience. But it could also be the wiring in the tree, although, in my experience, it never really looks awesome in there.
If it's hard to get the key out, it could just be the tumblers, or it be that someone tries to pull the ignition and failed. Either way, that could lead to circuits not functioning as designed. If it looks like someone has tampered with the wiring in the tree, it may be that they tried to fix this very problem with no success.
Hopefully one of the pros here chimes in with some pearls.
There are two components in play here. There's the ignition switch and the ignition lock. The key being hard to pull out is the lock, not the switch. The lock is removed by inserting the key and turning it to the ON position. Once there, you can stick something small into the hole under the switch housing to release the catch holding the lock in the switch. Once the catch is pressed in, the lock and key will pull straight out, leaving just the switch in the column. With the lock out, it becomes rather easy to give it a good oiling. After that, reinsert it, turn the lock back to OFF and pull the key out. It should now work a lot smoother. If it doesn't you might just have to replace the lock, which also means a new key.
There are two components in play here. There's the ignition switch and the ignition lock. The key being hard to pull out is the lock, not the switch. The lock is removed by inserting the key and turning it to the ON position. Once there, you can stick something small into the hole under the switch housing to release the catch holding the lock in the switch. Once the catch is pressed in, the lock and key will pull straight out, leaving just the switch in the column. With the lock out, it becomes rather easy to give it a good oiling. After that, reinsert it, turn the lock back to OFF and pull the key out. It should now work a lot smoother. If it doesn't you might just have to replace the lock, which also means a new key.
Sweet! Well i got a lot on my plate here, I gotta wait till i can get a lil more fund-age before i jump on the switch. Im gonna take a couple pix of the column when i get back to the rehearsal studio later and post them on here. I really hope this is it, it just seems to convenient that all these things are not working at once. And the wires being already cut and "twisted" back together leads me to believe that this may be a lot of the problem.
As far as the lock, should i "oil" it or use a graphite type lube, commonly used in household locks?
But again, i appreciate everyone's thoughts. It's a tremendous help and I welcome ALL THOUGHTS AND OPINIONS!!! I'm just not the most automotive-ly inclined person around, but if someone points me in the right direction I can figure it out.
Frequently when I go surfing, I bring my key with me, in my shorts or wetsuit. Before I started removing the saltwater before inserting it in my door locks, the lock mechanism would get crusty very quickly.
WD-40 was great at loosening it up, but only lasted for a few days if that before the crustiness returned.
I found the spray on white lithium grease, Sprayed into the lock with the straw, and onto the key when partially in the lock and worked around, worked the best. In fact it's been years since I've thought about it. But I no longer put a salty key in the l mechanism either.
Note: I had to change much of the original wording of this post so Alloro would not get too exited, and point out the different ways such wording could be interpreted.
Dang, I just reread it, and it is still too open to interpretation.
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART!!! You have to find the problem first!! --- NO NEED TO REMOVE THE FUSE BLOCK EITHER---
I assume in 1991 you still have the old style cylindrical fuses? Take your test light and check the terminals in the fuse box, not the fuse ends, but the terminals (fuse clips) themselves. Some of these fuses are "switched" circuits and need the ignition switch turned to the "run" position. If you have power at the "in" side of the fuse and none at the "out" side, you know A) bad fuse or B) bad connection in the clip. If you have power at the "in" side of the fuse then great, because you have just confirmed that A) your fusible link is good and B) the ignition switch is also OK. If you have no power at "in" then you need to move back to the switch then the fusible link until you do get power. Use your test light on your back ward trek until you do find power. If you move systematically you will be able to pinpoint the problem exactly. Only take apart the bare minimum so you can probe with your test light. (go after those other problems later)
If you have power at the fuse "out" terminal, then you need to move in the other direction, toward the switch and final element.
If you don't use a systematical approach you will go nowhere. Let your test light guide you as to where and what direction you should be moving.
If I am off a bit, it is because the newest info I have is for an '89 and a Chilton's at that.
Note: I had to change much of the original wording of this post so Alloro would not get too exited, and point out the different ways such wording could be interpreted.
LOL, got you on your toes do I? That's a feat that probably took your wife years to master, and I come along and do it in one post. I need to write a book and make some easy cash.
PLEASE DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING APART!!! You have to find the problem first!! --- NO NEED TO REMOVE THE FUSE BLOCK EITHER---
I assume in 1991 you still have the old style cylindrical fuses? Take your test light and check the terminals in the fuse box, not the fuse ends, but the terminals (fuse clips) themselves. Some of these fuses are "switched" circuits and need the ignition switch turned to the "run" position. If you have power at the "in" side of the fuse and none at the "out" side, you know A) bad fuse or B) bad connection in the clip. If you have power at the "in" side of the fuse then great, because you have just confirmed that A) your fusible link is good and B) the ignition switch is also OK. If you have no power at "in" then you need to move back to the switch then the fusible link until you do get power. Use your test light on your back ward trek until you do find power. If you move systematically you will be able to pinpoint the problem exactly. Only take apart the bare minimum so you can probe with your test light. (go after those other problems later)
If you have power at the fuse "out" terminal, then you need to move in the other direction, toward the switch and final element.
If you don't use a systematical approach you will go nowhere. Let your test light guide you as to where and what direction you should be moving.
If I am off a bit, it is because the newest info I have is for an '89 and a Chilton's at that.
It has the newer "push in" fuses. But i'll try that too! Thanks!
LOL, got you on your toes do I? That's a feat that probably took your wife years to master, and I come along and do it in one post. I need to write a book and make some easy cash.
I am sure there are some ladies whom would want a copy of that book, lol.
