It has the newer "push in" fuses. But i'll try that too! Thanks!
Ok, but do your testing on the fuse box sockets, not the fuse blades or those test slots on top. This way you will not be overlooking a problem that is right under your nose. After you have established continuity through the fuse box you can then use those test slots on the fuses for future tests. What you need, is power on the fuse exit side socket -- before you can move on (assuming you need to). Let us know what you find in that fuse box.
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Sweet!
So I went to the salvage yard, pull a ignition switch and tumbler piece. Went to put it in and realized the previous owner "hard-wired" all the **** together in my van. Went back to the yard, and grabbed the 2 harness' and put everything in the van.
Wiper's work!!! Hell yeah Alloro!!
We also picked up one of those "probe" voltage checkers where you put the alligator clip on a ground instead of our multimeter. Seems to work a lot better for what we're doing.
Tested the fuse box and found no power to the ac/fan/blower and no power to the power windows. Seems like every thing's going to work out great!
I have been vexed by many electrical gremlins until I changed my old, corroded ground connections out with new cables. Without good engine and chassis grounds, your volts and amps find interesting paths back to the battery, sometimes affecting your relays that control devices that normally have no discernable system connection to each other.
Good luck!
