I have a 1993 dodge ram B350 with a 360 and an automatic. The problems i am having with it is It stalls out mostly on the highway at speeds over 55mph but can also stall at speeds as slow as 5mph, its totally random. when it stalls its like it looses electrical power, no hesitation, no sputter, just dies. I loose my speedo it drops to 0 but i seem to have the rest of my dash and the check engine light does not come on, I do one of 2 things after it dies, pull over and put it in park or at highway speeds put it in neutral turn off the ignition and wait no more then 10 seconds and it starts right back up, it starts both ways. it can stall in 2 feet or 150miles I have done a code test and got a 1 2 1 4 1 7 5 5 so that is a 12 14 17 55 (i think) those are (12) memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts. (14) map voltage too high or too low. (17) low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault. 55 end of message. those codes don't really seem like problems that would cause this van to die to me but i could be wrong. Another problem i seem to be having is the fuel gauge drops to empty after 3/4 a tank, i pulled the tank to see if the fuel pump was bad also did a fuel pressure test and it was a solid 42psi, i benched tested the sending unit and it seemed to work out of the van, not sure if these are related as the fuel gauge problem started a year ago and the stalling started about 2 weeks ago but wanted to throw that in there as well. any help or advice would be most helpful.
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Last edited by Neutralvan; 03-02-2011 at 03:07 AM..
I thought of this also, but I am getting the same fuel pressure I even had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and got no loss in pressure and yes even after relieving the pressure. it also starts right back up no long cranks.
I'm suggesting the ASD relay is the problem, not the fuel pump one. However, for your year I believe the two relays are built into one assembly. So you can't change just one, you have to change the two relay assembly as a whole.
I think i need to do a bit of wire wiggling, all my grounds seem to be fine, i may have a short. thanks for the help.
i was told my CMP or my CKP might be bad going bad or the computer might be the problem today at work. Not sure I want to just change out things that are not the problem, although new parts are always nice.
Last edited by Neutralvan; 03-03-2011 at 11:47 AM..
Ok today wiggled bunch of wires and tapped on sensors as told by friend, would not die. checked to see if the CEL would stay on 2 seconds after key was turned on it did. so the van runs but stalls still at this point. sense i was working on it I figured i would do some preventive maintance. took out the TPS and saw a piece of scotch tape folded up in the back of the hole by the back opening where the TPS seats. never took the TPS out before but the tape was like an inch long and folded up so i assume it didn't belong there. would that tape in there cause some sort of stall? has not stalled yet but like I stated in my first post, it can happen in 2 feet or 150 miles.
Stall while driving after the ASD relay install, its running fine now after finding the tape i talked about in my last post for the time, but like I stated, it can happen in 2 feet or 150 miles. what are your thoughts on the tape jammed in there? not how it got there but on the stalling because of it.
Last edited by Neutralvan; 03-03-2011 at 09:04 PM..
Well fuel gauge started working now, there was a vacuum line disconnected behind the radio. and still has not died. could the combo of the disconnected vac line and the tape found in the TPS cause this thing to die all along?
Well the fuel gauge bobs up and down now like a faulty sending unit not like before it would only read till 3/4 tank then drop like it wasn't reading at all, only works solid when parked. I see myself dropping the tank in the near future and trying to fix it like the post here says http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel...sender-diy.htm its a shame you can't just buy the unit when it just screws right on to the Module.
Thanks for the help, I will try to help here too as i can, but I only am a back yard mech that worked for Chevy for 4 years. But i do love to try to solve problems on cars.
I will have to get back to it on Monday, The wife says i can work on my cars all week long BUT she gets me on the weekends starting at 3:00 on Friday.. funny though if Her cars are broke I get to work on cars 24/7. But then again she only has a 79' Z28 and a 93 escort, I have 75' Rabbit, 75' Chevy Monza (yes the 350) , 66 Ford F100, 74' Sportster, 75' F150 and the 93 B350 being a lover of older cars ya need to work on em most of the time or doing body work.
Last edited by Neutralvan; 03-04-2011 at 05:25 PM..
I have some of your same problems. Fuel gage just sits at the empty and bounces around...i am told the sending unit is probable bad. The 360 engine started to run weird in the morning when it is cold. Will almost stall and then speed up to above idle speed and then sputter and do it all over again...just like a crazy car. Once it gets warm it all stops and works like normal. Have been told there is an air temp sensor that is located in the intake manifold that controls this but am not sure. Anyone have any ideas? Could the Oxygen sensor do this too? Today I unplugged the air temp sensor and will see what that does in the morning. Now that the engine is warm unplugging this sensor does not do anything except turn on the engine light.
I would start by cleaning the throttle body and the IAC I saw a recent thread here on cleaning the IAC. if its not the problem it wouldn't hurt to clean them anyway. the O2 sensor to my knowledge would make a problem happen all the time and not just cold.
I saw that tip also on the IAC wish people would id these acronyms so they make sense...but anyhow I understand that my engine probable does not have one. This is a 1993 B350 van with a 360 engine that has one of those carburetor that is actually fuel injection. Is this IAC on the side of the carburetor that is facing the front of the engine or the rear?
I am also going to try replacing the air temp sensor since this happens only when it is cold. I have disconnected the connector to that sensor and am testing tomorrow morning to see if all this crazy surging and sputtering will occur with that sensor disconnected. If so then I will replace that....naturally it is a B to get to as it is right where the engine goes through the firewall.
I have a 1993 b350 dodge van with the 360 engine and am trying to find the air temp sensor. Does it even have one? The auto parts store showed me one but I can not find anything that looks like in on this engine. Maybe there is one for another year ? This is a 93 5.9 L or better know as a 360 cu in. with fuel injection and california emissions. Would love to know if it really has one and if so WHERE!!!!
I thought what I was disconnecting was the ATP but it was the water temp sensor. Maybe this years 5.9L does not have a sensor. I just do not have a shop manual...wish I did.