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Where to find a proper, replacement positive battery cable?

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Old 12-21-2011, 04:19 PM
cudak888 cudak888 is offline
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Default Where to find a proper, replacement positive battery cable?

Title says all; local parts stores direct me to the generic aftermarket cables for my 1998 B1500 - none of which have the two additional small leads at the end of the cable (which I believe are for the battery temperature sensor):

Click the image to open in full size.

Even the OEM shop manual shows an earlier design (two large cables + one small) from what I assume is the '94/97 incarnation of the Ram Van.

The only hint of a correct replacement that I've found after scouring the internet was in the following thread about a '77 Dodge Aspen. No word on the aftermarket P/N though:

http://moparforums.com/forums/f13/i-...ne-these-7407/

Click the image to open in full size.

-Kurt

P.S.: OEM part number is 56021622AD; only two are left in stock in the country at any Mopar dealer. $80/ea. I'm not spending that much for a cable.
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'98 Dodge Ram Van (MkIII conversion)

Last edited by cudak888; 12-21-2011 at 06:38 PM..
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:47 PM
alloro alloro is offline
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Contact these people and they will make you a cable to your specifications: http://www.custombatterycables.com/
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:32 PM
cudak888 cudak888 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alloro View Post
Contact these people and they will make you a cable to your specifications: http://www.custombatterycables.com/
At those prices, I'm better off sourcing a 12" main cable and putting eyelets on the two smaller leads.

Come to think of it, I might not have to extend those two wires if I attach them to the end of the battery lead at the fuse box.

-Kurt
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:00 PM
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jose13b jose13b is offline
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thats what i would do
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:12 PM
gazza101 gazza101 is offline
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as long as you make good contact to the battery terminal you are fine, you don't need to use the compression glands used.
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:51 PM
cudak888 cudak888 is offline
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Ended up using an 15" Autocraft #AC147 (should have used the 12" version, in retrospect). I crimped a pair of eyelets to the two leads.

Didn't even have to extend the leads to get to the fuse box:

Click the image to open in full size.

Doesn't look great, but it gets the job done. Thanks for the help, fellows.

-Kurt
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:56 PM
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Rusty93RamVan Rusty93RamVan is offline
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Those Optima batteries may be powerful and all that, but they sure are fugly.

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Old 12-23-2011, 11:45 AM
alloro alloro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty93RamVan View Post
Those Optima batteries may be powerful and all that
They're no more or less powerful than lead-acid batteries. The advantage of the Optima battery, unlike lead-acid batteries, is that you can drain it to nothing and charge it back up with little or no harm.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alloro View Post
They're no more or less powerful than lead-acid batteries. The advantage of the Optima battery, unlike lead-acid batteries, is that you can drain it to nothing and charge it back up with little or no harm.
Yes, you can also mount them sideways or upside down, and I'm sure there's much more. But they are an absolute visual assault to an otherwise properly kept engine bay.

Hideous.

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Old 12-24-2011, 03:26 AM
cudak888 cudak888 is offline
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I'm more concerned about cleaning up the road grime and other assorted crud and/or stains in the engine bay than fretting over whether the battery matches the door trim.

The Optima is nothing more than an additional step to ensure that there's one less thing to go wrong. All I care is that it works (bonus points in that it won't rust a steel battery tray either).

There's nothing improper about them, unless - perhaps - you're dumping them into a certain Mopar vehicle that requires agonizing over the block ID pad and damper plate before purchase.

-Kurt
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Old 12-24-2011, 03:26 AM
 
 
 
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