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Dug into the rear AC system today

  #11  
Old 05-30-2012, 01:24 AM
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If my combi-core doesn't check out, I am going to get the one in the yard and test that tool. If that flunks, i will definitely upgrade to a Pro-Air. There's only so much I am going to throw at a system that will prove next to impossible to service in the future.
 
  #12  
Old 03-23-2013, 05:49 PM
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Hi,
I recently bought a dodge ram van 1500 with rear a/c.
But I don't think the rear fan works. I would test the fan for functionality, but...
I can't figure out where the rear a/c is or where the vents are or where anything is!
The rear ac and plumbing are covered by the "conversion" so I don't know what to rip apart.
Where is the rear a/c unit shown in the photo, and what did you have to do to "reveal" the rear ac unit? What did you disassemble? How did you disassemble it?

Thanks!
 
  #13  
Old 03-28-2013, 06:05 PM
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Stoobers, just to let you know the thread is a year old !
But I can tell you where it is at on a Dodge, they are on the driver's side rear behind the 3rd row seating on the floor. You can find it by a box with a vent in it and if you put the front ac on then the rear and go back there you will hear the blower motor, that's if it is working ?
 
  #14  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by stoobers
Hi,
I recently bought a dodge ram van 1500 with rear a/c.
But I don't think the rear fan works. I would test the fan for functionality, but...
I can't figure out where the rear a/c is or where the vents are or where anything is!
The rear ac and plumbing are covered by the "conversion" so I don't know what to rip apart.
Where is the rear a/c unit shown in the photo, and what did you have to do to "reveal" the rear ac unit? What did you disassemble? How did you disassemble it?

Thanks!
If your van is a conversion, about 80% of the time the rear AC is not a Chrysler factory install, but the conversion company's. You would need to see if it is indeed along the driver side bottom wall just before the rear wheel hump or located under the rear seat or on a few conversions, it's located on the driver side of the van at the very rear door side. In any case, the rear AC is along the driver's side of the van.

The blower could be just fine. See if there is a blower resistor speed-card coil that went bad. They cost about <$20 or less depending on the part.
 
  #15  
Old 01-25-2016, 04:33 PM
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Default 2002 Dodge Ram Wagon 3500 Maxi Rear Heater Core Leaking

Does anyone know where to get a rear heater core for a 2002 Dodge Ram Wagon 3500. My mechanic says the heater core is leaking. I know they've been discontinued.
Please and thanks,

Jeremy
 
  #16  
Old 11-16-2016, 12:52 PM
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Default Can the rear AC run without the engine?

I know this thread is WAY old, but I thought I'd give it a try anyway.

I'm converting my 2001 Ram Van 1500 into an RV and I'm getting ready to add solar on the roof.

What I'm wondering (since the AC is not my thing) is if the rear AC unit will work if I disconnect it from the main power, and hook it up to my "house" battery (which will get charged while driving and via the solar panels). In other words, does it need the engine to be running to cool, or is it independent (like a Pepsi vending machine compressor) and just needs the proper amount of electricity?

Any thoughts?
 
  #17  
Old 11-17-2016, 10:45 AM
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It needs the engine to be running because it uses the same A/C compressor as the front system does. What you are proposing will only run the blower fan.
 
  #18  
Old 11-18-2016, 09:15 PM
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So coolant is being pushed under the van, all the way to the back, so a blower can then run air across the mini radiator thing and up into the ceiling vents? That sounds like such an inefficient way to cool the back of the van. Very disappointing if that's how Dodge made it.
 
  #19  
Old 11-19-2016, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyla Ren
So coolant is being pushed under the van, all the way to the back, so a blower can then run air across the mini radiator thing and up into the ceiling vents?
That is a correct description. To have an electric compressor running at 12 volts it would pull close to 100-amps. The design is universal across most every manufacturer for that very reason. As long the refrigerant lines are insulted they can run quite far with little to no loss in efficiency.
 
  #20  
Old 11-20-2016, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by alloro
That is a correct description. To have an electric compressor running at 12 volts it would pull close to 100-amps. The design is universal across most every manufacturer for that very reason. As long the refrigerant lines are insulted they can run quite far with little to no loss in efficiency.
Well, that bites. Any ideas on how I can cool the van in a humid area without running the engine? I have pets that I need to keep cool.
 

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