Thanks for looking. The sound just started a couple days ago. At first I thought it might be the tires but there Michelin's. Today I noticed when I turn to the left, the sound (low growl 25-50 mph) is most pronounced. Turning to the right, the sound disappears. I'm hoping it's just a bearing. Thanks for your response. Hoping to have someone put me there on it the first time. I'm just so darn busy all the time.... I don't have time to stab at it.

 

Replace the right front inner wheel bearing and race.

 

Jack up the front end and turn each of the front wheels by hand. Most likely it is a bad wheel bearing and when you do turn the bad wheel, you will hear and feel the bad bearing when you turn the wheel. The wheel should turn smoothly when rotating by hand. The wheel with the bad bearing will not turn smoothly. A bad wheel bearing can get real bad pretty quickly.

 

Thanks for the replies fella's. So today when I got home, I jacked the front end up and checked for play in the bearings. The passenger side was tight. The driver side had a small amount of play in it (grabbing the tire at the top and bottom and rocking back and forth). It felt like the inner bearing. So I went and purchased inner and outer bearings. Packed the bearings and all. Installed it according to manual. Torqued the nut to 20ftlbs, loosened a quarter turn, hand tightened nut and put on lock ring and cotter pin. Installed caliper and tire and it still has play in it. I checked the races and all looked good and smooth. I checked the ball joints and there not loose. You think I should torque it to 20 ft lbs and leave it. Thanks for your help.

 

I was talking to a friend about it. I did not replace the new bearing races with the new bearings. My book said I needed to take it to a machine shop to have the races removed and pressed in. My friend said he has removed them himself with a punch. And installed the same way. Do bearing races wear out. These rotors are about a year old if that and they came with races already installed I think. Thanks for your input.

 

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One should not put old bearings on new races, or new bearings on old races, though I am sure many have done so without issue and will tell you so. If either are inspected closely and no damage/wear found, then okay, but reusing a race from a bearing whose rollers were pitted and blue is asking for trouble.

I had found bearings that looked OK, had races which did not, upon close inspection.

I've had issues with inexpensive duralast chinese rotors and their chinese pre installed races not matching the taper of the new timken bearings I've installed on them.

It is easy to punch out the old races. Reseating the new races without the proper tools can damage them, If/ When the socket slips under the hammer blow.

Recently I replaced those chinese made problem rotors with Mexican made brembo's. I popped out one preinstalled race to install new SKF ones and found they already has SKF pre installed.

I will no longer trust 2 different brands compatibility with all the offshoring that has taken place.

20 ft lbs but when when spinning the wheel. I've had issues with "finger tight" still leaving wheel slop. I've had 20ft/ lbs and backing off 1/4 turn still being well beyond finger tight and had to back off 1/2 turn then finger tight.

I find find spinning the wheel and rocking it while finger tightening allows more of a turn and less wheel slop.

 

You're supposed to have that slight play in the wheel. When driving the bearing heats up and metals expand which closes eliminates the play. If you have no play, then when the metals expand the bearing binds up, overheats, and prematurely wears out.

I'm unclear if you replaced the bearings on one side or both?

 

Thanks fellas for your help. I removed the rotor and replaced the races. After reassembly, it still had a little play. So I put the tire on and wiggled it while tightening the nut with my hand but using the socket. I was able to get rid of the play. Thanks again... Now back to work

 

Is the noise gone?