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Abs & brake warning lights

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Old 08-20-2013, 07:02 PM
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Arrow Abs & brake warning lights

Hi, I'm an ignorant newbie and YES I realize this topic has been discussed about a zillion times before, because I've searched here using numerous different criteria and have read dozens - if not 100's - of posts on the topic. I've also searched (gasp) Allpar, Dodgtalk & DodgForumz, and have read bunches of posts there as well.

Yet, even tho there seems to be a common symptom - namely, the brake and ABS warning lights come on simultaneously after a minute or so of driving (or, reaching a "threshold" speed)........I've can't find a definitive solution. I already replaced the speed sensor in the diff - which seems to be the most-commonly recommended "cure" - in spite of the fact that the speedo worked flawlessly (as it still does with the new sensor).

I've unplugged the ABS fuse at the end of the dash, but that just kept the lites on continually (as did unplugging the diff-speed sensor). The brake lights work, so the switch is okay. I tried unplugging the large underhood fuse, labeled "stop lights", without any positive results. I also unplugged the proportioning valve, but - no matter what I do - the lights initially cycle off after turning on the ignition, but pop on after a short distance while driving.

My scanner (Auto X-ray) doesn't do ABS codes, but I read that I could retrieve 'em the "old-fashioned way", by grounding pin 13 in the data-link connector and counting the ABS-light flashes. But I can't figure out which one is "pin 13", since - no matter which corner I start counting from - the thirteenth one is blank/open.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not even sure this POS has anti-lock brakes. It's a 2000 1/2-ton "conversion" van with a 5.2/318 engine. HELP!! TIA!

C'ya - RAY
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:55 PM
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No OBD II scanner is capable of reading ABS codes. You need an ABS reader to do that and there is no work-around, however today there are $100 tools that are actually both in one device.

While it is often the speed sensor that causes the ABS light and brake light to come on, if you researched this issue in all forums then you know its just as likely to be an issue with the ABS module connector. Disconnect it and check for signs of moisture then dry it out completely and reassemble. If the lights go off but come back on intermittently it could also be as simple as air in the brake lines.

I believe all Dodge Ram vans after 1999 are equipped with rear antilock brakes by default.

Last edited by blackvan; 08-21-2013 at 12:17 AM..
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:27 AM
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THANX for the reply, blackvan! I'll check the ABS-module connector first thing in the A.M. If memory serves from all the posts I've read, it's behind the glovebox.....right? Will it be obvious, or do I need a description of what it looks like? Click the image to open in full size.


C'ya - RAY
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Old 08-21-2013, 05:21 PM
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The ABS control module should be under the battery tray near the RWAL valve. I've heard of the housing and connectors on this module disintegrating when handled roughly so I would be cautious, the plastic may be brittle due to heat and age.

Last edited by blackvan; 09-17-2013 at 12:13 PM..
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:56 PM
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THANX again for your help, blackvan! I'm glad you intercepted me before I took out the glovebox, lol. I can only think that I must've read that about a Ram truck, instead of a van........or possibly a different year. Anyway, with the picture you provided, I located the module under the battery try - exactly as you said.

The plastic portion of the tray was relatively-easy to remove, altho a couple of the corroded bolts snapped off (there's a lot of 'em, so 2 won't be missed). The support bracket underneath was "less fun" - especially that rear nut. Anyway, after it was outta the way, I removed the two module retaining screws (Torx head) so I could more-easily access the two harness plugs and the module itself.

Unfortunately, both plugs were clean/dry and the module pins appeared nice and "shiny"......so I reassembled the plugs onto the module a couple of times (on/off, on/off, etc.) and just let it "dangle". I then reinstalled a much-smaller "shop" battery (without the tray and support) on a pile-o-rags, so I could take a brief road test......hoping that the removal and re-installation of the harness plugs might have fixed a poor connection. I didn't wanna bolt everything back in place, only to find later that the module or nearby solenoid-valve-"pack" were fubar.

No luck (same prob). Sooooooo...........yesterday, I threw in the towel, researched scanners online and ordered one of
THESE THESE
from Amazon. I'm an "Amazon Prime" member, so I get free 2-day shipping and it'll be here tomorrow. Side note: It's amazing how much scanners have increased in ability and dropped in price since I purchased my Auto X-ray OBD2 scanner 10-ish years ago for much more money.

Anyway, when it arrives, I'll scan the van and let y'all know what I find. THANX again for your help!

C'ya - RAY

Last edited by TurboRay; 08-22-2013 at 07:34 PM..
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:46 PM
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Sounds like the right approach to me. Let us know how you like the new scanner, and hopefully it'll be able to shed some light on the actual issue.
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:46 PM
 
 
 
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