Hi, I'm an ignorant newbie and YES I realize this topic has been discussed about a zillion times before, because I've searched here using numerous different criteria and have read dozens - if not 100's - of posts on the topic. I've also searched (gasp) Allpar, Dodgtalk & DodgForumz, and have read bunches of posts there as well.

Yet, even tho there seems to be a common symptom - namely, the brake and ABS warning lights come on simultaneously after a minute or so of driving (or, reaching a "threshold" speed)........I've can't find a definitive solution. I already replaced the speed sensor in the diff - which seems to be the most-commonly recommended "cure" - in spite of the fact that the speedo worked flawlessly (as it still does with the new sensor).

I've unplugged the ABS fuse at the end of the dash, but that just kept the lites on continually (as did unplugging the diff-speed sensor). The brake lights work, so the switch is okay. I tried unplugging the large underhood fuse, labeled "stop lights", without any positive results. I also unplugged the proportioning valve, but - no matter what I do - the lights initially cycle off after turning on the ignition, but pop on after a short distance while driving.

My scanner (Auto X-ray) doesn't do ABS codes, but I read that I could retrieve 'em the "old-fashioned way", by grounding pin 13 in the data-link connector and counting the ABS-light flashes. But I can't figure out which one is "pin 13", since - no matter which corner I start counting from - the thirteenth one is blank/open.

To be perfectly honest, I'm not even sure this POS has anti-lock brakes. It's a 2000 1/2-ton "conversion" van with a 5.2/318 engine. HELP!! TIA!

C'ya - RAY

 

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THANX for the reply, blackvan! I'll check the ABS-module connector first thing in the A.M. If memory serves from all the posts I've read, it's behind the glovebox.....right? Will it be obvious, or do I need a description of what it looks like?


C'ya - RAY

 

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THANX again for your help, blackvan! I'm glad you intercepted me before I took out the glovebox, lol. I can only think that I must've read that about a Ram truck, instead of a van........or possibly a different year. Anyway, with the picture you provided, I located the module under the battery try - exactly as you said.

The plastic portion of the tray was relatively-easy to remove, altho a couple of the corroded bolts snapped off (there's a lot of 'em, so 2 won't be missed). The support bracket underneath was "less fun" - especially that rear nut. Anyway, after it was outta the way, I removed the two module retaining screws (Torx head) so I could more-easily access the two harness plugs and the module itself.

Unfortunately, both plugs were clean/dry and the module pins appeared nice and "shiny"......so I reassembled the plugs onto the module a couple of times (on/off, on/off, etc.) and just let it "dangle". I then reinstalled a much-smaller "shop" battery (without the tray and support) on a pile-o-rags, so I could take a brief road test......hoping that the removal and re-installation of the harness plugs might have fixed a poor connection. I didn't wanna bolt everything back in place, only to find later that the module or nearby solenoid-valve-"pack" were fubar.


Anyway, when it arrives, I'll scan the van and let y'all know what I find. THANX again for your help!

C'ya - RAY

 

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