I just had to replace the coil in my 2000 B350. Between that and my '94 B250, I've had so many problems with bad coils leaving me stranded on the highway, I've decided to make replacing it a part of my overall annual tune up. But I'll still keep my AAA membership.

Note that both of these showed "spark", but just too weak under compression to ignite anything.

 

Update #2: (and it ain't pretty!)

Well, I THOUGHT all my problems were solved by replacing the coil. Instead, the new coil just masked the problem for a bit. I was able to replicate the stalling the next morning. Rats!

The new fuel pump had arrived, so I decided to install it. SURELY that was the problem. I found out that despite being listed as a fit for my van by a company on Amazon, the fuel pump they sent was NOT a fit (no fuel regulator). After some research and consulting with the manufacturer, I removed the regulator from my old pump and installed in on my new pump.

After dropping, draining and cleaning the tank (twice - don't ask), the van seemed to be running fine. After letting it idle for several minutes, I drove it around the block a couple of times - all seemed well. Hooray, I’m done! So I took off around town on some errands.

After about 15 minutes of driving, the van died at a stop sign. I was able to get it started again (using wide open throttle), but it would die when shifted into gear. I could get it started again with a wide open throttle, and it would run it park, only to die again in gear. I was able to limp home by keeping the revs up.

I came home and pulled codes again – 12, 37, 22 (new – Coolant Temperature Sensor) and 55. After doing some research, the CTS HAD to be the problem, and explained while it would start with wide open throttle.and was able to nurse it home by keeping the revs up. Any time the rpms got too low, it would die. Then I remembered facing a similar problem last year, and spraying some cleaner into the throttle bodies and idle control valve cleared it right up. I went a step further this time, and pulled the ICV. Wow, was IT ever dirty and coated with gunk. I cleaned the crap outta it, and re-installed. MUCH better. I think all of the idling trying to replicate my stalling issue really made it dirty. Test drive around the neighborhood after warming up? No sign of stalling at idle. Yay!!!!

Even though I might be running fine now, I'm worried about the CTS causing problems. My local Discount Auto had a CTS in stock, so I’m ready to replace my old one. Holy cow, could they PUT it in a harder place to get to???

Two questions:

1. How critical is it to replace my CTS right away?

2. I now realize what a PITA this is. Any tips or hints on how to get to it? What am I going to have to remove to get at this thing?

Thanks as always.

UPDATE: DON'T BOTHER RESPONDING - ALL DONE!

 

if ya dont know already, just a heads up that there are two coolant sensors, 1 wire for gauge, 2 wire for ecm

i replaced both on my 94 B350 and don't recall them being particularly difficult with the right size deep socket. The bypass heater hose on the other hand nearly cost me my sanity.

 

UPDATE #3: Whew!

OK, FINALLY got both the Temperature Control Sensor (2-wire) AND the Temperature Gage Sender (1-wire) units replaced. Both of them basically disintegrated when a wrench was put to them. The van is now starting quickly and running strong. HOPEFULLY, I'm done.

Having the correct size deep sockets are critical unless you want to do LOTS of dis-assembly around the manifold & air intake.

One thing: My temp gauge is registering hotter than previously. It did register at or slightly above the lowest indicating line, and now it seems to be settling in at the next highest line. No other changes were made to coolant level, thermostat, etc.

Should I just chalk this up to a new sensor (and and considering the condition of the old one), and a more accurate reading?

I'll keep an eye on it and report back if needed.

 

I would chalk it up to a new sensor with a slightly different curve. Factory gauges and sensors are not know for their accuracy. I use them to note normal operating parameters and then if suddenly some reading radically changes this provides a clue that something is no longer working as it was.