ok here it is. I think pcm is still good because it runs but then quits. I got electric spray called deoxit and checked certain pins for voltage and ohms etc. I think everything is fine but the van will quit for no reason other than bad connection, i think. I can get no bus then turn off key then turn key back on hurry up and push wires on pcm and then i hear relays kick on and then van will start but then while idling you can hear relays clicking and then van dies. Now sometimes i can turn off key then turn on, van will start and then somtimes nothing and that is where i have to push wiring harness on pcm to get relays to start clicking and i have to hurry and do this before no bus, what a pain in the ***. Does anyone know if it could be a bad pin in harness and how do you splice all those wires to redo with other harness from junk yard. Also this is a junkyard pcm due to the original had same problem until i think i shorted it out, so before i send in pcm to be repaired i need to fix connection problem. What tools are needed for splicing wires. Basically i think it is just right and center pcm connectors. Any suggestions would be helpful. THANK YOU

 

Could be an issue with solder connections on the circuit board itself, which are potted in silicone and not really accessible.

Inspect close to the connectors, wires on the very edge of the connector, for weak spots or where a tech has pierced the insulation looking for voltage. Some of these wires are just 22 gauge and do not take kindly to a probing. Once the insulation is pierced the wire corrodes from within.

removing and reinstalling the connector often, spreads out the barrels so they do not fit tightly onto the pins. You can rebend them tighter with a jewlers screwdriver, but only so many times.

I deal with a bad 14 way connector on my 89 engine computer which will cause a stalling and a no restart until I press on the connector.

I need to replace the molex barrel connectors within the connector itself, but in the mean time am getting away with barrell manipulation, and zip tying the wire bundle tight so that it cannot vibrate and loosen up.

Rainwater getting in the hood, running down the firewall, hitting PCM wires which direct it to the pcm connector is an issue. I've done some underhood modifications so rain water cannot run down the firewall, but drips off before hugging the firewall, and this one minor modification, I believe, has prevented many more issues with wiring and bizarre electrical issues.

Freaking dumb design to allow rain water to run unimpeded under the hood, and rely on Dielectric grease to keep the moisture out. Halfassery at chryslers finest.

 

I had a 1988 Chev Cavalier many moons ago with a bad output for the rad fan on the PCM. I ended up putting in a manual switch to run that output but I could have installed a separate sensor to run the fan.
If you are only having problems with putting power to one bank of relays perhaps you could install a master relay turned on by the key and use it to power the rest of the relays. There would be no need to have the PCM do major power switching...easy to do externally.
Steve

 

Our Ram Vans suffer from a design flaw with the PCM. The location being the upper enclosed area under the HOT hood. Therefore, the PCM gets heat aged faster and heat stressed.

My PCM was so hot to the touch the other day in 105 degree weather, that it gave out 5 times. We sat on the side of the roadway for 22 mins until it cooled enough down. I then got it home, took it apart and reflowed the PCM in the oven. So far so good. BUT, this is a last resort or you have a backup PCM on hand should the reflow go bad.

Some have made PVC tubing from the front grill back and up to the PCM to run a 120x120mm computer fan onto the PCM. They had also added a few heat-sinks.

Other than the PCM, yes those wires get heat-aged faster too. It will be interesting to see how many Ram Vans of the last generation fail vs. the older throttle body and earlier vans pre-1994.