a--hem....


https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...ml#post3228931

 

Well you shouldn't since he just said, "I suspected a slow small leak on the heads prior to this work though I think it wasn't too active."

That was new information that you didn't have before.

 

Alloro guess your right but I'll be careful about being so sure about situations in the future for various reasons.

Well I hope everything seats and seals properly so ericralph can spend a little more time behind the wheel and less under the hood.

 

Thanks iodj44- yeah this all started from an overheat due to a broken thermostat. Crazy what kind of trouble a broken $7 part can cause.

Although learning the in and outs of vehicle repair wasn't on my bucket list this year the experience is truly invaluable- it's a very empowering feeling to know that next time i have to bring a car to a mechanic I will actually have a clue what they are talking about!

 

Since my heads are out I'm thinking I should replace my valve seals; on startup the van was prone to gaseous blue-cloud bursts - Replacement seals are cheap and it doesn't look all that hard with the proper spring depressor tool- just a bit tedious.

Are there any words of wisdom or warning I should heed on the subject?

 

Before you do anything to the heads I suggest you bring them to an automotive machine shop and have the heads checked for cracks. Not doing so is just throwing good money after bad.

 

thanks- the heads are at a machine shop- waiting on them.

 

a couple of things...


First, I would recommend that you buy new. Alloro is correct about checking for cracks. Our heads are notorious about cracking. On my 3.9 the new heads were redesigned. The casting of steel between the intake and exhaust valves is too little in the original design - so this is where they crack. The new design has a significant redesign. I would ask your shop and discuss this aspect with them. I went with new heads Also if you buy new, you will probably get new valves, seals and springs. This is a job you don't want to have to do again, so do it right in the first place. Also, if you want a little extra oomph, Harlan Sharp makes 1.7RR The work well in my v6.


The exhaust manifolds look like they can be unbolted via accessing them through the top. Some can, but most are a lot easier done buy using a swivel with a couple of extensions and doing them from the bottom.


The head bolts are 5/8th inch. You will break standard sockets on them. I went through two sockets until I broke down and bought an impact socket. You will need significant leverage as there is really no room for an impact wrench and an air ratchet doesn't have enough torque. I used the HF 9 dollar 1/2 torque wrench with an impact 1/2 -3/8 adapter and a 5/8 impact socket. All went well after I got the right tools.


Stay positive. I love my van - now. When I bought it, it was a basket case. I have basically rebuilt/replaced almost everything. Still, even calculating $70 an hour shop time I am way under any new van or car. Our vans are actually easy to work on, simple, and cheaply fixed. Hold on to them as long as you can - they are the last American vans, because the replacements are unibody, Chinese/worlds supply chain weird stuff - and expensive! I priced out converting a Pro Master and a new Ford and it was 60k-80k to get it to what my van has...


Good luck

 

What did those cost you and did they come with all of the valve, springs, etc.?

 

everything but rockers...


I got them two years ago and I remember paying around $400...now they are 475..


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-FITS-CHRYSLER-DODGE-DAKOTA-RAM-3-9-MAGNUM-V6-CYLINDER-HEADS-92-02-/151031535162?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232a2e563a&vxp=mtr