Hi everyone! This is my first post here.Looking for some help because i'm on SSD and can't afford a garage. I have B2500 van with 3.9L V6.100K. It starts and drives fine for the first 7-10 miles every day. After that it runs fine on the road but stalls everytime you stop at a stop sign(unless you throw it in neutrel first).It stalls when trying to back up unless you keep one foot on gas and one on brake too.It will sit and idle fine in park or neutrel. I'm fair with a wrench but not too hip on the new electronics.I replaced the IAC valve and cleaned the throttle body out with a lot of carb cleaner. I also replaced the MAP sensor today. I was thinking maybe the throttle position sensor or the EGR valve??? Income is really limited,so I can't keep playing the guessing game. Thanks in advance for any help thown this way!!!!!! I'm baffled why it doesn't do this for the 1st 10 miles???

 

I had very similar symptoms last year, I know the foot on brake and other on the accelerator coming to a stop well, mine was the Crank position sensor (cps) if you're savy with testing it here's a site to help for your 95
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/chr...-sensor-test-1
It's something for you to consider...

Last year, before replacing the one I have installed now I could start and run about 7-10 miles before the engine would cut out while driving a couple times an then stall out like you turned the key off, would crank but not start right away but after a few minutes would crank up and start again, then the same scenario... 7-10 miles, cut out then stall again. Replaced sensor as advised from this forum and running well to this day.

The CPS before that when it was failing I did the foot to brake and other to gas to keep it from stalling out coming to stops and sometimes taking off, but that one would crank and start right away if it did stall , and I drove it for some months that way before discovering it was the crank sensor all along. This sensor was a BWD brand and only lasted about a year or so before failing and changing to the above mentioned one from autozone.

Welcome the the forum btw

 

hope that might help

 

Thank you very much!!!! I will try this.

 

Just for heads up info, as you will find out by checking through the forums here and other related 2nd gen threads the consensus tends to be buy OE replacement sensors (Delphi) brand. Sometimes you just can't for one reason or another but these are the recommended sensors. Delphi IAC, TPS, PCV and map as well as crank sensors and some other parts can be found at the dealer (high price tag ) or rockauto (low) and better to order multiple parts same time to offset shipping cost for example. Lower cost if playing it smart. There are other sites I'm sure but I've had good experience with RA is all
I couldn't wait on my crank sensor when it failed so went with what I could find from local auto zone with limited life time warranty, not disappointed though because it runs.... will see how long, so far just over a year now
?

 

Replaced the cps today. It apparently wasn't the problem. I still got my good 7-8 miles and then the same ol stuff. Thanks for the advice though,much appreciated!!!

 

help!!!!!!lol

 

Sorry for that, sounded a lot like the symptoms I had I had only thought if you were familiar with the mutitester you could troubleshoot to find if the sensor is getting correct volts and go there if it tested good or bad and whether to replace or check it off the list.
Not to lead you on a goose chase, I'm rookie status for good reason but an enthusiast and learning by doing but are you pulling any codes, check engine light on? have you tried the key dance to check for codes in the case you don't have a code reader or access to one? Key dance to pull codes may or may not work on your 95 nor my 99 but no harm in trying it to see, read on it in this link as well as many others...
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...key-dance.html
or search out more if you like. You may have a code or pending code that may help troubleshoot your problem with some help from the guys here.

also did you disconnect the negative cable on the battery before changing the sensor to reset the pcm to relearn the new crank sensor or the iac and map when you replaced them? if no, you can try that also. Disconnect, turn the key to on and let it set a good 15 minutes to be safe and clear the pcm then key off and re hook the terminal again.

just for clarity, when you cleaned the throttle body did you take it off and remove the sensors to do the cleaning or leave it in place I wonder...
The more info you can provide the better chance there is someone can suggest how to help resolve the problem

 

I disconnected the battery after I installed each new sensor.I did not leave the key ON though.I will try this tomorrow. I left the throttle body on the truck when I cleaned it,i run a lot through the hole when i had the IAC out and ran a lot through with the plate open from above. I only disconnected the battery neg cable for a few minutes each time. I had no idea how long it had to be disconnected.Thank you for all your advice,much appreciated!!!!

 

Disconnect battery before ever unplugging any sensor, the key on is just extra insurance that residual power is purged is all.

As for the throttle body it's best to take it off, carefully of course, and also not too time consuming or difficult so you can more thoroughly clean it as well as the iac. Just spraying carb cleaner down and through the holes doesn't cut through the carbon build up that cakes on over time and taking it of allows you to remove those sensors too before drenching with all that gunk and sending it down into your engine. Plus you can't see or get to the crud underneath the throttle flap unless it's pulled
Check out the DIY's for cleaning the TB and IAC. Brake cleaner or carb cleaner , an old tooth brush, paper towels and some rags and some gentle scrubbing and wiping will do wonders. Get a new gasket for the TB at your local parts place before hand and set aside a couple hours to do it right.
Did mine a few months ago after watching some youtube videos and reading up a bunch here and was impressed with a smoother idle and better throttle response, honestly!

This cleaning all can be done at your convenience but first you should check for codes to to make sure your rig is not giving you code (clue) to why the van stalls