A couple of days and a few trips after I bought this 1999 Dodge Ram Van 2500 with a 5.9 liter it developed a high idle. It needed brakes and a tie rod end and a check engine light. so I brought it to the shop and the mechanic said jobs all done but you have a high idle and. Heck engine light. I then replaced the TPS, IAC and MAF sensors, still have a high idle but now it will idle normal at cold start but as soon as I touch the gas the idle goes up and stays up. Now I go to the dealership and pay to have it diagnosed. Leaving the dealership it starts stalling and sputtering. Replace the computer, check engine light goes out and the no high idle, side it will not idle, and stalls. Back to the dealership. They tell me to replace fuel pump, distributor and that the baffles in the catalytic converter were shaking around and could be causing issues. I replaced the distributor and the fuel pump. I cut the cat open pulled the honey comb stuff out and welder her closed again. Still have the same problem... check the spark plugs because why not and they were no good so I replaced those, still have the same issue....

anyone have any any idea what is going on? After reading some posts and searching the googles I'm about kit replace the battery even though the motor will turn over but not idle. It will run a bit if I hold the gas down and may idle for s moment but then either stalls on it's own or as soon as I give it gas.

Any help would be great. Any question I would be glad to answer. Bear with me as this is my first post. Thank you

 

You mentioned a check engine light... did anyone you had working on it put a code reader to it or mention what the codes were? That would be helpful getting some answers and give a clue where to begin... how many miles? what kind of new spark plugs? oem copper seem to do best
Otherwise, look into cleaning the throttle body good and the iac and the port might be a good start. Just a thought

 

i do not recall the original codes but they indicated a bad IACV which is why I replaced it, and cleaned the throttle body before replacing the computer. Dealer tested IACV said it was ok and told me to replace the computer. No codes after replacing the computer. What do you mean by clean the throttle body? Maybe there is a more involved cleaning process compared to what I did.

There were 7 codes, 3 indicated a bad IACV and it fell apart when removed- new IACV was checked by dealer.

177k on the odometer

OEM spark plugs- same behavior before and after replacing plugs.

New parts
IACV, TPS, MAP, Distributor with cap and rotor, fuel pump, ignition coil,

added 30 gals fresh fuel when problem started.

removed guts from the cat.

 

Your problem sounds like it's a leaking intake plenum gasket. Print out the TSB at the below link and take it to your mechanic. Have him run the vacuum test outlined within the TSB and I'm sure it will show this to be the issue.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm

 

The throttle body cleaning method can be easily searched, I had read the various how to's on doing it here on the 2nd gen forums. It involves disconnecting linkages and electrical connections and taking the throttle body off to clean the orifices and crevices after removing the sensors, also the top as well as what you can't see... the underside. I took it that you hadn't done this, apology if you have

After reading alloros comment and the tsb link it makes more sense that is more likely the direction you ought to go.

 

Thanks for the help.

I did remove the throttle body and look inside the intake. It was actually very clean with no oil in sight. It was my understanding that if I could see oil in the corners that would indicate the need to replace the plenum gasket.

I was was able to do a better cleaning with the throttle body removed from the engine and actually it was much easier to remove and reinstall the MAP sensor this way rather than with the throttle body on the motor. However after a thorough cleaning and reinstall the problem persists.

Given ghe the fact there no oil was inside the intake should the plenum gasket continue to be investigated?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Do the vacuum test outlined in the TSB, that's the only way to know for sure. Also take a vacuum reading at the intake with the engine running just to make sure it's up in the 20-22 range. If it's not the intake manifold gasket could be leaking at one or more of the intake ports.

 

It would also be to your benefit for searching and asking, to know what the fault codes are at this point... do you have a friend or neighbor who has a code reader?
One of the guys here sent me an ebay link for a BAFX bluetooth code reader that works on my cell phone, about $20 bucks and $5. for the torque app from the google play store, it's handy thing to have around to help diagnose.
You can find other readers that won't cost a ton at Harbor freight or even the parts houses have ones that aren't too pricey but cost is less as you know going ebay or amazon.

Question, did you install the new distributor or mechanic and was the fuel sync done? Also you mentioned adding a new cap and rotor, but not the (pick up coil)... can't miss it, it's below the rotor and attached the wiring.
From reading some of the 2nd gen forums sounds like it's the pick up coil that communicates with the pcm to tell which injector to fire on what cylinder. If signal is faulty from it the pcm just shuts down the injectors.

Just tossing an idea out there...

 

I ordered the MAP sensor from Amazon because with prime it was a great price. However they sent me the wrong part. Their system sent me a MAP sensor for a jeep Cherokee and the intake port for the map sensor on that sensor is about half the size of the vacuums port on the correct part. Basically Amazon sent me a part what was working, so no code, but was the wrong part. It was doing its job but for a 4.6 liter motor rather than a 5.9 liter motor.

This was my first experience using Amazon for auto parts and it was a total fail that wasted loads of time and money. Carparts.com like sites and eBay motors are much more reliable to deliver the correct part.

Happy to sayy rig seems to be running great after installing the correct MAP sensor.

Thanks for the help

 

Glad to hear you've sorted it out and fixed the problem! hope you hung on to some of the old parts for spares.
I tend to check here in this forum and the 2nd gen trucks also, mostly for learning. From my reading, have seen for our dodges, that most all recommend replacing sensors with the more reliable oem Mopar parts from either the dealer or they can be found on ebay and amazon too for somewhat cheaper - just for your future reference...