This was compiled by another forum user (screen name of Yogurt) a few years ago. Most of the upgrades are still current today.
I did note with an * some items that were not available when this was written up.


Here is how to CORRECTLY BPU your N/A:

DISCLAIMER:ALWAYS do the 60k/120K tune up before you do any modifications. I STILL get people asking me what they should do first when upgrading, and the first thing I ALWAYS tell them is GET THE CAR RUNNING HEALTHY AND SAFE FIRST!!!!!

INTAKE, good for about 1hp to the ground, BUT it helps with other mods. get one off ebay, dont pay no 180 bucks like my *** did for the FIPK. you can get them for about 40 dollars. same ****. Also, dont pay 200 bucks for the nice shiney arm that DNP puts out. Plenty of ebay sellers have the SAME thing for under 50 bucks shipped, alot of times they come with a filter too.

UNDERDRIVE PULLEY, good for about 8-10, dont listen to people who say its gonna break you engine. HORSE ****, You dont drive an F1 car, and the vibrations from the the lack of harmonic balancer is nill. ( id look into 3sx ones they dont underdrive as much thus keeping your lights nice n bright)

TESTPIPE this mod is good for about 7-8 hp, but further more it will allow you to pull all the way to redline, instead of falling off the hP table at 6800. Best mod available for the N/A IMO.
Cali spec cars can either gut, or try to fabricate a precat delete for more HP to the ground.

CUSTOM EXHAUST. your exhaust note changes noticeably, and your car will pull a bit harder to redline. helps top end emmensly. look around. if you want top line ****. borla makes a great system, as does DNP. THE only way to go if you want the best gains from your N/A car is a single tip exhaust that retains the resonator and premufflers, they are not a restriction and they are a HUGE help with N/A valve overlap (farting noise when letting off the throttle). if you want looks go from the axle back and have a Y bent up in the vein of borla.

AT THIS POINT YOU ARE MAKING about 245 crank hp. and your car will feel very strong. and SHOULD run about 14.7-5 depending on driver.

OTHER MODIFICATIONS THAT HAVE BEEN TESTED AND FOUND BENEFICIAL:

DOWNPIPE, Either dnp or 3sx depending on which emmission car you have. this mod is good for a reported 13hp at the wheels. 300 bucks, and your exhaust note changes CONSIDERABLY at 4k rpm.this is where youll get some nice gains from the air filter.
*3sx Performance now has long tube headers for all NA stealths/3000gt's.

SOLID MOTOR MOUNTS, These keep the engine nailed to the car, and eliminates MOST of wheel hop, 3sx or maximal performance has them. you can also go the DSM route and window weld your stock mounts if you dont mind a 24 hr of downtime to let them dry. (cheapest way to go, bout 14 bucks) *polyurethane mounts will work too (but are somewhat pricey).

LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL, nice n rev happy, added about 1mph on drews mph drag racing. however it is expensive. RPS and Fidanza makes one for the N/A 3s.

CLUTCH Since I first introduced the N/A bible, there have been significant gains in clutches for the N/A. To each his own. just a tip, you CAN use ANY DSM clutch you find on the market, they bolt to the N/A flywheel.
JUST KEEP IN MIND. IF YOURE GONNA GO FWD TT. GET A HEAVY DUTY ONE. Theyre worth it in the long run.

TWIN TURBO FUEL PUMP, bolts right in, and keeps your fuel pressure NICE. youre gonna need this for the next modification

NITROUS OXIDE, Go with a wet shot. I have dry and it blows. but now you will realize the power of the fuel pump. no engine going boom is worth 100 bucks dont you think? get a used nos kit. its cost effective.

REWIRE FUEL PUMP With a bigger TT fuel pump and nitrous, its a good idea to have constant voltage to the pump at all times. Im not sure if this helps the regular N/A guys out, but if youre interested in trying. I sell a great kit for less money than most competitors shipped.

SAFC to tune the nitro, and fuel. nice gadget to have. get the af gauge with it. requires mostly dyno tuning. If you blue wire mod it to monitor 02 voltage, you can do it... YOURSELF.

CAMGEARS, , HOLY EXPENSIVE and they look nice, tough to install. fidanza makes a nice set. IMO theyre not needed on an N/A car. gains arent noticed much.

GROUND WIRE KIT At 45 bucks, theyre a cheap mod, BUT these will help throttle response greatly. stabilizes voltage for your ECU. BIG TYLA sells these. Look him up, ive heard nothing but good about him.

UPGRADED ECU CAPS Most 1Gs are running on 13 years old now, its about time to get rid of the old leak prone electrolytic capacitors and replace them with high temp higher voltage rating caps from YOGURT! 3sx just sells stock replacements. MINE are 8.50 bucks. The higher voltage rating sends a cleaner signal to the ecu, filtering out any noise. Possible HP gainer, but it hasnt been tested yet.

Now you should be making about 270 N/A crank hp and 350 hp with the juice.
this point you run between 14.5 and 13.9

you wanna keep goin?

SPRINGS Intrax. plain and simple. other cheaper alternatives out there. but quality is a concern. Eibach are ok, they just dont lower the car as much. This mod keeps the center of gravity low for better launches.

LIMITED SLIP INSERT, or GEAR LSD Now personaly, I would choose the SFR (speed freak steve) LSD insert, its cheap, relativley easy to install and hell, if 11 second FWD DSM's can use it, so can you.
Quaife or KTP gear type LSD's are always best, as theyre torque biased, but at 1000 bucks, they can get pricey with install. SUB 2.0 short times can be expected with much practice.

PHENOLIC SPACER FINALLY someone carrys this. now that youre making some serious heat with your Nitrous Oxide, heat soak can set in and heat up your charge between runs. With a Phenolic spacer from ek2 or 3sx, your plenum will stay nice n cool all day. Remember, for every 1* your intake charge drops you gain X HP. which, is the name of the game.

VR-4-RT/TT BRAKES Youre goin fast, so you need to stop quick too, you need the brake calipers and rotors from a TT 3s, along with the hub and steering knuckle. Axles remain the same. First Gen TT calipers can be used on 16 inch stock rims.. 2nd Gen TT calipers, you must upgrade to 17" rims.

at this point youre making 275/280NA crank hp, without juice, and 350-370hp with it, ALSO you have the means to put it to the ground.
at this point you should run 14.3-13.xx.

AND THE ULTIMATE NA MODIFICATION
TWIN TURBO CONVERSION. from, a roll NOTHING will touch you.
there are those running 11.80s with SLICKS fwd
The LSD AND CLUTCH are A MUST for this undertaking. should cost between 2k and 8k depending on what you get, what method you use, who does it, and how many NEW parts you buy. www.bobthegreat.com has ALL the info and pictures you will ever need.

http://www.deftracing.com/tt.htm <----handy checklist for items you'll need for the conversion.

OTHER MODS I HIGHLY RECCOMEND,
pull the blue wire behind the stereo, no more beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep.

UPDATED LIFTERS GET THESE! your car will NEVER tick again.
lower the car. wheel gap is ugly. you can fit hondas in there.

all these claims are made to the best of my knowledge, note you may or maynot see same results. EVERY car is different, but i hope this helps a bit.

[align=center]*this information is used with yogurt's permission*[/align]

 

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...ide-lines.html

Some of this applies to the stealths as well. Ed Kelly at Kelly-Mulhern does great headporting, which will also pull great gains on an NA or turbo motor.