I have a 2002 Dodge Stratus SE with the same problem. When I turn on the AC or the heater it goes to the defrost vent on top. I can sometimes make it go to the front (towards the face) by setting it to the defrost setting and slowly turn the **** to the left to change it to the AC, or by wiggling the **** a bit. I took the climate control out to see if the cables were loose or damaged, they were fine but I noticed one wasn't plugged in at anything, and I dont see a place to plug it into so im wondering what thats for. I have to buy a new climate control box thing because I broke it off of the plastic dash thing. Let me know how it goes with your problem.
I kinda have the same problem... First it was the blue or green wire, I could wiggle it and there it was.. But, now no heat.. just A/C but only through the defrost. I have another control unit.. the dash control, if you need it $5.00 plus shipping its yours, But, I took the entire bottom of the dash out to try to manually switch the control. I can not figure it out!
First it was the blue or green wire, I could wiggle it and there it was.. But, now no heat.. just A/C but only through the defrost. I have another control unit.. the dash control, if you need it $5.00 plus shipping its yours, But, I took the entire bottom of the dash out to try to manually switch the control. I can not figure it out!
The blower resistor is under the heat/ac housing under the dash on the passanger side. It is right by the blower motor. There is a cover that is held on with a 5/8" hex nut that you will have to remove to get to the resistor and fan. The resistors usually burn out because of the blower motor going bad. Before you replace the resistor, remove the blower motor (3 - 5/16" hex screws and 1 electrical connection) and turn the fan assembly to see if it's rough or hard to turn. You will find a lot of carbon on and in the motor from the brushes. If the brushes are still ok, use electronic cleaner to remove all the carbon. If the blower motor doesn't turn easier, then it will have to be replaced. If you only replace the resistors and the blower motor is bad, you will be buying another blower resistor.
I have been fighting my AC issue since last summer and like many of the posts, it would work on defrost with the temp selector set to cool but would not engage the compressor on normal AC settings. I tracked the problem down to the female connector on the circuit board of the selector switch. I resoldered the 8 pins on the board and now my AC works as it should. I should have known to look closely at the switch since it was made by Lucas. My advice, avoid Lucas wiring and electrical parts like the plague!
I have a 2001 Se Stratus. I had the AC recharged and it works fine. However, it only works if you put a metal pin where the fuse goes. If you replace the fuse, it stops blowing cold air, just warm...anyone know what is going on? An electrical short or what? email me please
Throw in my two cents... my 2000 had intermittent a/c; hard to diagnose.
Saw online something about the soldered joints on the dash board that has the switch. It's minimal disassembly to get to it. With a magnifying glass, saw a questionable connection on pin 1 of 6. Resoldered it, and for good measure the other pins, and have had consistent AC.
But now the rear defrost button on the same board doesn't work, so if you go this route do so with care.
I had the same issue with my '02 SE and I replaced the fan control resistor and it works fine now. On mine if you took the fan off of 4 and went down to say 2, it would kick from the vents to the defroster.
I had both of the problems mentioned in this thread - "high only" blower speed and air only out of the defrost vents most of the time, with intermittent "do the right thing" behavior. The first was the blower resistor - the replacement Standard part for $16 was much more robust than the original Dodge part, to the extent that you have to enlarge the hole in the HVAC unit slightly to get it to fit (great job for a mototool).
The other problem was the flakey solder joints on the white connector on the HVAC control panel. These have a very thin solder joint and no other apparent mechanical support, so several of the pins showed cracks when examined with a magnifying glass. Reflowed the solder and added a bit for strength, and all works again. No messy blend motor replacement, no diving under the dash to access the HVAC unit.
I suspect the variations of symptoms reported here will depend on which pins have cracked joints. Another think I noticed is that the dash lights on the HVAC panel had quit working; I initially assumed a burned out lamp, and there are 3 of them.
Last edited by GreaseGeek; 03-22-2015 at 08:06 PM..