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Old 08-06-2015, 11:41 AM
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2001 Stratus Heat/AC All Problems

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  #31  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:50 AM
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Default what I did to mine

I had the same issue with my '02 SE and I replaced the fan control resistor and it works fine now. On mine if you took the fan off of 4 and went down to say 2, it would kick from the vents to the defroster.
 
  #32  
Old 03-22-2015, 08:03 PM
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I had both of the problems mentioned in this thread - "high only" blower speed and air only out of the defrost vents most of the time, with intermittent "do the right thing" behavior. The first was the blower resistor - the replacement Standard part for $16 was much more robust than the original Dodge part, to the extent that you have to enlarge the hole in the HVAC unit slightly to get it to fit (great job for a mototool).

The other problem was the flakey solder joints on the white connector on the HVAC control panel. These have a very thin solder joint and no other apparent mechanical support, so several of the pins showed cracks when examined with a magnifying glass. Reflowed the solder and added a bit for strength, and all works again. No messy blend motor replacement, no diving under the dash to access the HVAC unit.

I suspect the variations of symptoms reported here will depend on which pins have cracked joints. Another think I noticed is that the dash lights on the HVAC panel had quit working; I initially assumed a burned out lamp, and there are 3 of them.
 

Last edited by GreaseGeek; 03-22-2015 at 08:06 PM.
  #33  
Old 01-07-2016, 08:47 PM
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I did have same conclusion as you replaced sensor fan worked all speeds although I had same issues had others to like no rear defrost no hot air only warm and blows wherever it wants whenever mostly through defrost so I took out climate control took a part inspected with magnifier and found 4 pins broken loose so I re-soldered and now rear defrost works perfect but other issues like no hot air and vents have mind of own which honestly doesn't bother me that much but no hot air does the A/C blows cold I have replaced radiator, cap, and thermostat recently for other reasons I also did a flush at same time. I purchased the car in the summer and heater didn't work at all but I wasn't made aware of this all he mentioned was A/C didn't work but I fixed that problem by running a jumper wire to relay also once I pressure washed the A\C coil little radiator in from of coolant radiator the A\C would freeze you out but without jumper wire it would cut on and off so I suppose it could be another loose connection maybe inside circuit board but afraid to throw more money into it it's a great running car however last 6 years its to cold to drive in winter months would like any and all ideas thanks
 
  #34  
Old 01-30-2016, 01:01 PM
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i have a problem with my 01 stratus r/t the heat only blows slightly on passanger side like warm air the driver side blows out side/cold air and heater core was flushed and runs water fine fluid levels are fine and it only has 1 climate control not dual so i assume it only has the ac/heat blend doors drive/passanger but both seam to work fine not sure what to do about it also when driving with the heat on it somtimes sounds like water in the dash board being bubbled/slushed around then stops
 
  #35  
Old 03-12-2016, 06:32 PM
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I have a2001 Dodge Stratus SE Sedan. Interesting that a lot of 2001 Stratus have had HVAC issues.

After reading a LOT of the postings, I can sympathize.

The symptoms of our particular Stratus is that no matter what the settings of the HVAC controls, there is ONLY hot air blowing out of the vents after the car gets up to temperature.
Anyway, the heater blend door actuator must be bad. I have pulled the fuse, in order to "calibrate" it and that didn't help. Then I check the hot/cold control panel and resoldered the pins, as suggested. Still not indication the blend door is moving.
 
  #36  
Old 11-04-2018, 04:48 PM
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Default Heater fan speed

Originally Posted by 02sxtstrat
Ok so I have kinda the same problem, but I didn't have any problems with heat or cold air. The only problem I had was that the fan would work on #1, the lowest setting, but would sometimes make a grinding sound and would not blow any air out. On monday I had the fan set on #2 and it made the grinding sound, which it never did on any other setting but #1, and then it wouldn't blow any air out on #1 and #2 and only on #3 and #4. So took it in to see what the problem was and it turns out that the resistor and blower motor went out and recric door actuator went out. So we replaced all three for a cost of $500 and as of right now everything works ok.
your problem will not be the switch but it is the heater switch resistor. It is on passenger side, right up under dash from where your feet would be. There is an insulated cardboard cover you’ll have to remove and then youlll see the resistor and the motor. Remove the one 5/16 hex screw and pull it out. Replace with new one, it is not a serviceable part. Note, often the aftermarket resistors are a little thicker so the flat slot they slide into may need to be enlarged just a little bit to get the new one in. I normally use a good utility knife and trim a 1/16-1/8” wider. Button it all up and you’ll have all 4 speeds back.
Good rule of thumb with blower motors and switch, if it turns on and you get at least one speed out of it it is almost 99% the resistor.
Very simple, very basic tools and maybe 10-30 min.
 



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