Hello, I have been researching this site for two days trying everything that has been mentioned to help my car. I'm a single mom on a limited income, so I don't know much about cars. But do have a few mechanically inclined friends who are helping me. But now they are stuck.

I have a 99 Dodge Stratus 2.5 V6. I have never had any problems with it, no engine lights have came on ect...
Two days ago I went to go to the grocery store, it cranked right up, moved two feet, then quit. It tries to start, it just won't turn over.
One time it said 'no bus' on the OD, but everything is working fine electronically in the car, and it has not showed that again since.

We have changed the crankshaft sensor, that didnt work.
We reset the PCM, that didn't work.
We tried a brand new battery, that didn't work
We checked the timing belt to see if it slipped, it's tight as a drum.

The fuel pump is working, something is causing the gas not to go all the way through, and there is no fire with the spark plugs.

It has also not generated any other codes.

I even thought maybe I had bad gas in it, so we drained out the old gas and put fresh Exxon gas, no change.

At first I thought it was the ECM, but from my research, it claims that almost everything in the car would stop running due to everything being connected to it, so I really don't think that is the problem.

I know there is still a cam sensor, and the air valves to check. Everyone is completely stuck. This is my only car so I need to get it running for as cheap as possible and as quickly as possible. LOL

Also, I tried calling the dodge dealership. The man was very rude to me and said he couldn't discuss any problems or give me advice over the phone. But if I pay to have towed to him (35 miles away) and pay him 90 bucks, then he will tell me what is wrong.

 

Update, it's not the camshaft sensor either.

 

I'm inclined to think there may be a clogged fuel filter in there. Worth checking, but you also mention "no spark", which complicates things a bit. Possibility it's the distributor.

 

Do they have one of those ASD relays or something like that... that when tripped cuts out fuel and spark???

 

Is it that it runs for a couple of seconds than stops?
Is your key gray or black?
When it cuts off, is there a red dot in the upper right of your dash that blinks?

 

Check the fuel pump for 12 volts ... it might be that relay or the ASD relay

 

No blinking light as far as I can tell. And it doesn't run at all. It tries to start and that is it.

I'm so flustered right now over this car. I have ran out of money to put into it and me and my children are still stranded in the woods.

If someone can explain to me how to check ASD relay I'd appreciate it.

 

Anyone know what the name of the sensor in towards the front, connected to the transmission is called? It's the last sensor I have left I do believe. Still trying to get this car started!!

 

I believe that is the speed sensor... remember I am not a mechanic....

 

found this in the Avenger section.... don't know if it is the same or not....

Bad ASD Relay Symptoms


Usually starts by stalling while driving, progresses into not starting at all, often it will start after several attempts. Engine will have no spark, and you will not hear the fuel pump run when the key is turned on, therefore, no fuel pressure.

These same symptoms have been noticed if a Fuel Pump Relay goes bad or during a computer failure. The Fuel pump relay should not cause a loss of spark.


What to check

First of allwhen you first turn the car on does the Check engine light for a couple seconds? It should as part of the self test when you turn the key on. If it does not then i may be a defective computer, or a burnt out bulb, if the bulb is burnt then you may have a code that you don't even know about. So check that out first.

If your car is a 95-97 perform the key dance. See link for instructions

http://www.2gnt.com/www/files/pcmcode.htm

If you have a 98+ you will need to go someplace such as Autozone, and have them do a free code check. A relay problem usually will not show a code, but if you get a code there is a good chance whatever the code is indicating is causeing your problem.


After the car has sat for a couple minutes with the key off, Turn the key to the ON position, but not far enough to engage the starter. Under normal conditions you will hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, to build pressure in the system. The fuel pump is located under the back seat and should be audible from inside the car, or get a friend to stand beside the rear of the car and listen for it.



Check for spark, pull one of the spark pug wire of a plug and insert the metal end of a screwdriver into the end of the wire. Lay the wire and screwdriver onto the metal part of the engine and have someone crank the engine. (don’t touch the screwdriver while the engine is cranking or you’ll be screaming obscenities)


If you see spark and hear the fuel pump than your ASD and Fuel Pump Relays are both good. If you see spark and have no fuel pump noise then i could be the fuel pump relay (or the pump). If the car is experiencing intermittent periods of not starting, then you will need to try this several times. It is possible that the one time you perform these checks, could be the one time the car will start without trouble.


Solutions



The ASD relay is mounted under the hood on the driver’s side of the firewall. near the brake fluid master cylinder

Some cars will have 2, 3, or 4 relays in this position, depending on which transmission you have. The Fuel pump Relay is always on the left (passenger’s side) with the ASD relay beside it. Only Automatic trans cars have the EATX relay, and 95 models have a fourth relay of unknown function.



To replace the relays you have 2 options.



1. Go to the dealer and order a new one. I believe someone payed $20+ at the dealer.
2. Go to your local autoparts store or Radio Shack and buy a 30 amp Bosch style relay. This relay will plug right into your harness and is identical to the original expect it will not clip to the mounting bracket like the original. You can usually disassemble your original and new relays and reassemble the new relay “guts” into the original factory housing. This way it will mount to the bracket.



If this does not solve the problem you could be having computer problems, there are several outputs you can check on the computer, before pricing and looking for a new one, so if you are still having difficulties post again

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