Daughter's car. Her FIL (Father-In-Law) replaced crankshaft position sensor, timing belt, distributor. Wouldn't start. After 6 months, finally asked me to make it work. No spark from the distributor. Replaced it. Still no spark. Replaced computer. Tries to start - will almost run if I hold key in start position. Can't swear her FIL got all timing marks exact.
Removed plenum and EGR tube & checked all plug wires. All on correct position. Re-pulled distributor - it goes completly in place one way, but if I rotate the rotor 180* and try to install distributor, it won't go all the way in. Can I install distributor 180* out? Or will it go into position only 1 way?
Would like to get her car out of my shop by Thanksgiving. Looks like I'll have to pull the timing belt covers (etc) and check everything her FIL did. Also, must I have the special tool mentioned in the Haynes manual for adjusting the timing belt tensioner pulley?
If this was a Chevy 283/327, I'd already have it running. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks muches.
Wayne

 

yeagh I would pull the timing covers and see if everything lines up especially since you didn't do it yourself. let us know how you make out....l

 

Pulled the covers today - what a PITA. Daughter's FIL had the right-bank cam 3-notches off and the left-bank 1-notch off. Put everything like it's supposed to be according to the Haynes manual. Still won't start. Will try moving the plug wires on the distributor cap like we used to do way back when, see if that helps.....

Wayne

 

After you lined up everything up. Did you rotate the engine twice by hand? When I did my girls car 2.4L DOHC sedan It took me a little while to realize that the Haynes manual was off. The Haynes manual says advance the exhaust cam by two teeth. I needed to advance the exhaust cam by three teeth before everything lined up properly. Its a real pain in the but getting it rite. Let me know if you rotated the engine. Its the only way your gonna know if the alignment is correct. After the rotation the timing marks should be spot on! Good Luck!!!!

 

the 2.5 is an interference motor ... Normally 2 teeth off can damage the motor

I'd run a compression check to see if there's valve damage,,,

Do you hear the fuel pump engage ???

 

Thanks for the replies, guys. I've been busier than..... Anyway, I went out and double-checked the cam sprockets and all three timing marks are dead-on. Rotor points to #1 contact. Plug wires had been crushed (probably by the FIL) put all 6 new ones on. Plugs were very fouled. Replaced all 6 also. Car will start and runs (and I'm using that word very loosely) but runs like a vacuum line is disconnected. Haven't found one yet. If I press on the accelerator, the engine coughs, spits and backfires. Previous Dodge mechanic I know suggested compression test and cylinder pressure test - said that because the timing belt was off by 3 notches, the engine may have bent valves. Will check all that in the next day or so. Y'all have any other suggestions? I really appreciate all the help.
Wayne

 

Obviously, it's been a while since I last visited. Took the Stratus to a garage down the hill. He checked everything. Timing is exact. Computer sends information. 50psi fuel pressure. 180psi compression. Cylinders 6 & 5 fire somewhat normally, 4 & 3 intermittently, 2 & 1 not at all. All are getting their fuel. Still won't run. When I can get it to start, the accelerator is useless and non-functional. Tried propane, didn't make any difference. Neither did ether. What am I missing?
Wayne

 

After an additional $400 (after the $350 in parts I had already put in it) and no results, towed the car home from the shop down the hill in mid January. Pushed it into my shop this past Sunday (2/7). Saturday (2/6) evening, I stopped at O'Reilly's and (just for giggles & grins) bought a Crankshaft Position Sensor. Figured that's my last guess and if this doesn't work, I'll part the car out and try to get some of my investment back (with the CPS, over $800 invested in this car). Monday (2/8) evening, didn't want to open the box and put that CPS in - I wanted to get a refund since I KNEW that it wouldn't make any difference. Still, I pulled the previouly-installed CPS and put in this new one KNOWING that the car still wouldn't run. Put the key in and turned it - and THE CAR RUNS - pretty much like new. Didn't drive it to work on Tuesday - needed to do a MAJOR (2-hour) cleaning inside and out. Have put over 200 miles on it just yesterday and today.

Wayne

 

Hey glad to hear you got her running! What a pain in the hole that was! Hey out of curiosity... What make was that first CPS sensor and where did you buy it from?

 

Castlenut,

I have no idea what brand the CPS was - my daughter's father-in-law (FIL) purchased it and put it in (or so her husband told me). I believe he bought it at Autozone, but I don't know for sure.

My Haynes Manual said, in essence, "If the CPS and the PCM are not communicating, the engine won't run." So, I put the newest one in and, Lo and Behold, it started.

Wayne