I know there are several variables that could have caused my 2005 SXT sedan 2.4 with 94K on it to suddenly stop w/o warning and not start again .

Only reason why I am asking on Dodge Forum is because I felt I might have done enough troubleshooting to pose the question for the knowledgeable Stratus Owners out here. I will lay it out exactly what I have tried so far and the circumstances leading up to my car's first failure in more than 4 years I have had it.

I am asking because I had my car towed home instead of shop due to lack of funds but I cannot seem to get a hold of a Code reader to find out what exactly happened. Since it would cost 90$ each way to have it towed to an Auto parts store pull the codes for free I have elected to try to narrow it down with brainpower from you guys for now until I can get ahold of a ODBC 2 reader instead of computer power

Stopped at a stoplight no CEL and about 97 degrees out side. AC blasting and music up (liked the song) just glancing at my Tach and saw the needle drop to zero. Dash lights up, CEL on and try to turn it over a few times before I realize something is seriously wrong. Pushed out of lanes of traffic and get it towed home due to limited $$ so fast forwards a week to today.

What the car does electrically. Functions as it should minus it won't start.
When you crank it all lights come on as they should, security red light is not blinking, CEL is on solid but when pump the gas it will start blinking. With the lights on when you crank it they just dim the split second you turn the key but stay strong when cranking. Have tried both sentry keys (grey) and fobs with no change. not battery or starter problems as it cranks as it even doesn't try to fire or anything. All fuses are intact

Have pulled all spark plugs and they are all catching a spark when held to metal and engine is cranked a few times. Visual inspection for anything I could get my hands on show no apparent physical broken or worn out wires Until I get a code computer i cannot check the ECU codes.

The timing belt as far as I can tell by taking off the bolts on cover I can reach that it is intact but do not know if it might have jumped some teeth and this is cause.

Fuel system, I found the junction between the rubber line coming from firewall and where it goes to a hard line towards the fuel rail. Found this green relief valve it seems and was able to allow the fuel pressure to dissipate through valve (fuel sprayed everywhere) then I cranked the engine for a little bit and did the valve again with same results, This would tell someone that the fuel pump is working enough to load the pressure back up in the system? I also shot a lot of starting fluid right down the throat of the throttle body and give it some cranks and it would not try to start with the ether either.

I have pulled off the negative battery cable and left it overnight, put it back on and same results. I am a little apprehensive about throwing sensors at it as I don't even have the $ to pick up a 230$ code reader to pull the codes. I was hoping by the descriptions I gave here that someone might know what it might be and be able to narrow down to a single or at least a few sensors possibly to try.

I really appreciate any feedback in advance!!!

 

Upddate that might help narrow down issue.

Found the trick to turn the key in a sequence that gave me the error code on my odometer of P0340 thene says DONE. Indicates the camshaft sensor is bad. I know there could be more variables still hence no replys yet.

Got a camshaft sensor and installed it with no change. Also bought a crankshaft sensor and installed, no change. I am just going to leave them in as they are new and can only help I suppose moving on past the repair and past the 95K miles it has.

Now a couple of easy questions. I had called a shop I have used in the past to get a quote to replace the timing belt. $350 and that is just belt and labor. Guy at shop told me not needed to replace water pump or anything else because it was 7 more hours of labor for that stuff and "dodges like mine weren't like that" whatever that means.

I have replaced a timing belt for a old Honda CRX years ago so I do have a basic idea of what is involved to replace a timing belt and other items "while you are there anyway"

I was also told that the timing needs to be at TDC for me to replace the camshaft sensor, true or not.?

Also in another post here I say a guy who had his TB tensioner go bad and caused the cams and crankshaft to lose sense of where they were at timing wise and put the car in a "no-run" state where it is not starting to save valve damage from being out of timing.

I see a nice Dayco timing belt kit with belt, pulley, tensioner pulley and water pump for $208 shipped. I was wondering if with my knowledge of the car that I have learned over the last few weeks of troubleshooting if I could swing the replacement myself? Does anybody have a step by step for timing belt replacement for 2005 SXT 2.4 Stratus "X" Vin or would a haynes or chilton's manual suffice?

Also the shop guy was telling me to expect valve damage but on a diffrent site a dodge mechanic said he has only seen damage to valvetrain/top end once or twice out of 20 or so vehicles so I was hoping if it did shut down badly that at least it was at idle and when it cranks there are no funky noises or anything just cranks.

Hopefully oil might have helped it if it did try to break as I have used Royal Purple in it since it had 20K miles (don't ask me why, I like that oil for some reason even though it is ourageously expensive)

What do you think folks? Have I figured it out and am overthinking it??

Do I need vallidation from someone that I am on the right track?

Just am real tight on money and still am making payments on this puppy

I really could use a step by step how to on replacing the belt and everything else that comes with the kit. I have heard it isn't too bad. Front motor mout off, transmission bolt out, 2x4 brace on top of a pump jack and raise it over and up to give one enough room to work. Also a harmonic balance puller and tool that holds both cam gears together so when tension is put back on belt on install the cams don't rotate out of marks. When I did the Honda I didn't even have to adjust the timing as I got the marks perfect at TDC..


Any adviceis appreciated.

 

A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:

• a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
• the camshaft position sensor may have failed
• the PCM may have failed
• there exists an open circuit
• the crankshaft position sensor may have failed

(found this with Google)

I would do a compression test.
If you replace the timing belt I would also install a new water pump.
A Haynes manual or similar will help with the timing belt replacement.
You will need a good harmonic pulley remover.