I may be able to help you out here. I did my belt on a 2002 2.4L DOHC engine. I cranked my vehicle several times afterwards too not realizing it was broke. I wouldn't worry.
1. If your about to pull the harmonic balancer. Make sure you have a good enough puller for the job that is sturdy and not too small and do not attempt to grasp the balancer from the outer edges or you'll chip it if you do! You have to grasp the balancer from the middle of the balancer were its meaty. Its a little tricky so go slow and make sure your puller is on even and tight before you pull! Also the threaded rod for my puller wasn't long enough to free the balancer from the crank shaft. I remember had to insert a a 3/8 ratchet extension into it the crankshaft and then put the puller back on with the the threaded rod exerting force on the end of ratchet extension. I was able to free it from that extra inch or two of travel before it came off.
2. For the motor mount. Make sure you remove the the clamps that hold down the power steering line right next to the motor mount. There are two hold down clamps one towards the back of the engine the other towards the front. Follow the line you will see them both. Otherwise you will never be able to get out that last bottom bolt on the mount. You wont have the clearance. Also make sure you have a jack with a piece of wood underneath the engine. If I recall rite you will also need to raise the engine in order to remove that last motor mount bolt!
I know what your saying about the instructions for a belt that has tension not for one that has shredded off. You will do what you have to do to rotate those cams because they are no longer lined up. After several unsuccessful tries I turned the crap out of those cams in order to line them up. LOL! No worries
When you get to the cam sprockets it was a bit tricky lining them up properly. The book tells you to line up the cam marks and crankshaft marks. I had to actually advance the exhaust cam by two or three teeth then put the belt on before I eventually managed to line everything up perfectly after the two complete rotations.
Heres how I did it by myself. After I lined up the cams the way I wanted (like I said with the exhaust cam advanced by two or three teeth) I held the two cams from moving by using two wrenches in a criss cross pattern then clamping the wrenches together preventing them from moving. I held down the crankshaft (with its nut on) from turning with a good half inch ratchet with cheater bar attached to it wedged in by the lower control arm and the floor. Making sure it was top dead center and would not move at all or very little!
What happens is everything tries to move when your putting the belt on. With this method you don't need anyones help to put the belt on. First route your belt through all the components and leave the exhaust cam last! You lean over the front of the car. With your left hand you reach down and grab the allen wrench that you adjust the tensioner with releasing its tension. With your right hand grab your belt that you have already channeled through the other components and try to lastly slip it over the exhaust cam all the while trying not to move anything. It takes a little practice and a little force.
You may end up doing this several times till everything lines up. I finally realized like I said that I had to advance the exhaust cam teeth by two or three notches before everything lined up after the two rotations. Every time you put that belt on you have to rotate the crankshaft two complete turns before the marks will line up. What a pain in the hole that was!
On a side note. I had to fabricate a tool to remove the cam sprockets. I used a flat piece of sturdy steel with two holes drilled into one end of it. One hole was long so I could adjust for width. I then fastened two bolts into the holes. These bolts fit into the cam sprockets to hold it while you unbolt it. Good luck let me know how you make out. Im here for you man! Let me know if you have questions! I feel the pain!!!!