Update:

Oil light still shows up but not often when hot and at idle. I have also noticed that on occasion idle will hunt from 500-750. Have not yet pinpointed exact conditions this happens under such as AC, hot, etc. So it looks like I still may have something going on. I'm betting there are oiling issues going on so who knows what the future has in store. I'm just happy the downshift surge is gone since that could be dangerous when trying to stop.

 

Just replaced the gaskets for the shift solenoid. That is quite the ordeal and I realize why a guy I work with got hit with a $300 bill for it. If I had to do it again I could probably do it in an hour, but it's not easy since it's such a tight spot. Hopefully this will stop the leak. I noticed more leaks at all points in the cooler lines so those might be getting replaced as well.

As far as the oil light, I did the bad thing and used 10-40 oil. So far the light has only flickered a few times; also while hot and with a slow idle around 500rpm. I need to bite the bullet and hook up the gauge and look at the pressure at various temperatures. So it will wait until late spring when I have the heat advantage. Lash clatter is pretty much gone now since using the heavier oil.

I'm not sure if I put it in another thread but it has developed throwing a CEL light about 20 minutes after hitting the interstate. It is a 3&6 cylinder misfire. However this is distributor so it really has me baffled unless the Code is generic and would also apply to a distributorless system. In any case it's already had plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I never got anything done with the EGR so that is still a potential. I want to figure out how to check the idnition control module in the distributor since that can affect the ignition at idle as well as while on the interstate.

 

Thanks for documenting all this.

I'm having the same oil light issue on my 02 Dodge Stratus 2.7. I don't know half as much about cars tho, so not really sure what the issue is.

I had my water pump replaced a few months ago. Everything has ran fine up to a few days ago when I got an oil change. That's when the oil light started coming on at idle when the car had heated up. It would go away when RPMs were given.

I currently have my solenoid pack leaking as well. Not sure if that would cause the oil light.

 

Well, now that I've been working on these problems for almost 2 years I guess I better update again with the current status.

I double checked the timing belt and I had it overtightened. Getting it set a little better has got rid of most of the belt whine it had before while running. Seems to run better but I still have the lifters tapping at times. I have yet to see the oil light come on so I think that was maybe belt related. So at this point I'm just down to the Misfire on 3&6. Besides distributor as I've thought about before I really don't see much else it could be. I'll probably end up pulling one at a yard just to try it and see if it changes anything. As long as I get one from a car that has body damage I can assume it was running before ending up in pieces. I'm not about to drop the money for a new/reman distributor on the hopes that it will fix the problem.

I also picked up a fuel filter which could be a possibility since it happens just about any time above 70mph. Maybe it's running lean. I have yet to see what the relationsip between 3&6 cylinders are. Are they directly across from eachother and are the last 2 fed off the fuel rail?

 

I'm back at it after battling a with a few other vehicles. I bought some lash adjusters that I need to replace. Although I'm not sure if they clatter due to the oil pressure or the adjusters are causing the oil pressure loss. I have yet to use a pressure gauge on the oil system. It has to be losing pressure though. Just not sure where yet. The only way to check will probably be to pull the pan and see what some plasti gauge tells me for mains/rods. Besides that I've already tried some 10-40 oil and it seems worse than before. I was amazed that even with air temps around 10* the problem happens just as fast... if not faster than if the temp is 100*. I'll get it figured out some day. I'm just hoping it keeps working as a daily driver until then.

 

Well, 3 years later and I think I figured it out. There has always been a noise that I figured was coming through the radio since I installed a new headunit way back about when all this started. Well, I've decided it's the fuel pump/sending unit or filter. I have a filter but it appears the tank needs to be dropped to do it. A little investigating might determine that.
I have a feeling a low fuel pressure is causing the engine to run lean while driving. I have not confirmed this with a gauge but I have no other explination as to a misfire code as well as low oil pressure.
*Oil pressure light - Oil thinned by lean AFR causing engine to run hot
*Valve clatter - Pretty sure I messed up some lash adjusters when doing the timing belt. The bad ones will be replaced and the rest cleaned.
*Low Temp - I think the gauge just reads low. It always runs the in same area so I think the cooling system is more than capable but it appears the oil is retaining a lot more heat than it should.

To summarize, I need to get the fuel filter changed and test fuel pressure before and after to see what happens. Followed up by the fuel pump. Hopefully I'll have more than talk by this time next year. Overall I'm impressed with the abuse it's taken up to this point if in fact its had a weak fuel system this whole time.

 

Filter replaced. Symptoms are the same. My next step is pulling the lash adjusters for cleaning and replacing any that are collapsed. I know there are a few and I might find that they are located on cylinders 3&6 which are causing the misfire code.
I did notice that there does not seem to be a port for testing fuel pressure on the fuel rail. It doesn't look like there is even one in the system. I didn't think of checking the TPS but it might be worth it to check voltage and see a clean sweep across throttle range.
I'll keep updating in case anyone else is having or has the same problems in the future.

 

Guess we're still at 3 years now. I have trans cooler lines, radiator cap, thermostat, and all gaskets to pull the lash adjusters as well as a tool to lift the rockers. Just waiting for some nice weather so I can get the work done. So far the humming seems to be gone so apparently changing out the fuel filter/regulator took care of that.

Oil light issue is getting worse again. Now it's guaranteed to be on every time the car is drove and the RPM at which it comes on is getting higher. I only hope the damage has not been done by putting off the repairs so long.

 

Finally pulled the plenum and the front valve cover. I'm going to assume these are cyl. 1,3,5 because one of the intake lifters/lash shudders was collapsed on the middle cylinder. There was also one on the exhaust for 1and 5 also. I have not got to the rear head yet but I expect one bad on the rear drivers side cylinder(#6)?
Should be done in a few days so I'll post up how it turns out. Just proves that anything can be done if you stick with it.
It's also getting a trans cooler line that's leaking and a thermostat and radiator cap.

 

All done with a leaky rear valve cover and loud ticks.
Gotta pull it apart again. There is a cleaning procedure that shows filling the lash adjusters with diesel. That's my last ditch effort I suppose.
I have a feeling this is going to be a long few days.