I have a 1996 Dodge Stratus with a 2.4 engine. The speedometer and gas gauge run fine, however, the digital odometer does not light up, the RPMs do not move, and the temperature gauge runs at halfway consistently while the car is in use.

Can someone point me in the right direction to resolving this?

Thank you in advance!

 

The problem could be a bad connection on the back of the cluster. Remove the cluster and check your connection.

 

Hello, I have a 96 stratus 2.5V6, all of gauses very good except the temperature gauge not working. I downloaded document from internet for cheking instrument cluster, but I don’t understand:
“There are four check functions:
a/CHECK 1-Gauges: if all gauges fail to move or do not indicate at the proper locations, the instrument cluster circuit board is faulty and should be replace. If any one gauge fails to move or indicate properly, have it replace. …”

Instrument cluster CHEC 1 Char:

TACHOMETER ---6000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER ---100 mph (220km)
FUELGAUGE Pointer ON---F
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---H

TACHOMETER ---3000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER ---75 mph (120km)
FUELGAUGE Pointer ON---1/2
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---Midscale

TACHOMETER ---3000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER ---55 mph (100km)
FUELGAUGE Pointer ON---1/2
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---Midscale

TACHOMETER ---1000 rpm
SPEEDOMETER ---20 mph (40km)
FUELGAUGE Pointer ON---E
TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---0

My question: What is mean : SPEEDOMETER: 40 Km/h with TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---0 ???

Thanks.

 

All of the Stratus (and other 'cloud' cars) had instrument panel problems up until 1997. The problem was 'cold solder joints' on the connectors on the back of the instrument cluster. What starts up as one gauge not working will eventually lead to more and more not working. Here's what to do about it:

1) Replace the cluster with a unit from 1997 - 2000. Dodge fixed the problems after 1996. Any cluster (from a cloud car) will fit from 1997 - 2000. But, The 1999 + 2000 years used white faced gauges. I have seen the clusters sell for around $50 on Ebay.

2) Repair your cluster. If you've ever used a soldering iron, this will be a cakewalk for you. You'll need to pull out the instrument cluster first: Lower the column to the lowest 'tilt' setting. Remove radio bezel (pulls out). Remove fuse panel cover (pulls off). Remove (3) screws from the radio area and the (1) from the fuse panel area. Pull cluster cover towards you, lift and slide out, set aside. Remove the (4) screws holding in the instrument cluster, pull out cluster and remove RED and BLUE connections from the rear. Remove cardboard cover from rear of instrument cluster and then remove circuit board from back of cluster. Don't forget to unplug the ribbon cable for the PRNDL / odometer display.

Use a soldering iron to touch each pin that goes through the circuit board from the RED + BLUE connectors. Just heat it up long enough to see the solder become liquid, DO NOT KEEP THE IRON ON SO LONG THAT THE SOLDER DRIPS DOWN THE BOARD. Just touch for a few seconds, and then let off. I put a tiny bit of solder on my iron to help with the heat transfer and lessen the time I had to heat the pin. After heating EVERY pin (on the RED + BLUE connectors), and watching the solder harden again (again, be careful not to add any significant amount of solder, or you will run the connections into each other), reverse the dis-assembly procedure and your cluster will work fine (if your PRNDL / Odometer doesn't work, you forgot to reconnect the ribbon cable when you put the circuit board back into the cluster).

If you like to check your cluster, you can turn the ignition on (make sure the Odometer is on the Mileage (NOT the trip Odo). Turn the key off and turn it back on again while holding in the trip odo reset button. This will put your cluster into a TEST mode. You will see your gauges go to Max, and then drop to Min with a few 'steps' in between. It will also walk through all of your 'idiot' lights (it's a good time to replace any burnt bulbs when you have your cluster out). It will also cycle through each PRNDL position. It'll say 'END' at the end of the test cycle. Simply turn off the ignition when done. This 'TEST' cycle will also reset / calibrate any gauge that has spun all the way around and now gets stuck at the back of the pin that sets the Min value (it happens from voltage spikes). Please realize that you do not have to keep holding your finger on the trip reset button after it enters the test mode. The PRNDL display will display what test mode you are in (4, I think).

I hope that helps everyone here. My buddy gave me this Stratus because he didn't want to sell it with the cluster not working. I fixed it in a few hours (research and then repair). I've fixed cold solder joint issues on a few Volvos (My favorite auto brand (Only RWD's)) I've fixed Climate controls and relays in the past. It's a simple fix (when you know what is wrong) and might save you the $50 or so on a newer cluster. Again, be sure to ONLY get one from a 1997 and up or you will have the same problem sooner or later (providing it wasn't repaired already).

Edit: To answer your question "My question: What is mean : SPEEDOMETER: 40 Km/h with TEMPERATURE GAUGE Pointer ON---0 ???": It means that the speedo will show 40, while the temp gauge is at the BOTTOM. If you do the check, it is obvious what it means. You'll see the pointers of each gauge moving to the places stated if they are working correctly.

-Ken

BTW: If anyone lives near Long Island, I'll fix your cluster for you for $50 and lunch (a hero or pizza). But you'll have to bring the car to me. I'll come to you, but it'll cost you more.

MODS: Feel free to make this a Sticky, since this is a common problem with the 1995-1996 cars.

 

I had the same problem. The odometer and tach would not work. I went to the junkyard and pulled one from a 98 Sebring. It fit perfectly and now it's like new. I even like the different colored gauges. This car has lots of little irritating electrical issues. My horn runs all the time so I unplugged the relay until I can figure it out, and the radio shorts out my fuse that controls all the door and interior functions. I think that's pretty easy, just replace the radio because when I unhook it everything works fine, so there must be a short in the radio. I like this car, with only 69k miles, but it seems like every weekend there is something new to fiddle with. My A/C doesn't work either, but that's what they made windows for. Good luck with your problem. The cluster only cost $40. If you go to the "pull a part" make sure you take off that cardboard cover on the back and make sure you don't see any burned connections, etc.