so I have a 2000 2.4L SE, it idles really rough and I'm trying to fix it. Awhile ago the timing belt broke while it was running, it has since been replaced and I have ruled out the timing belt being off a tooth or a valve being bent. So I'm thinking it's either the EGR valve or PCV valve. The pcv valve is cheap and easy to replace and I will once I go to the auto store, so that leaves me with the egr valve which i am unsure of the location of the 3 different parts that make up the egr assembly. As well as I have a vacuum line that looks like it's coming from the intake manifold but is just capped at the other end? When the engine is running uncapping it does affect the way it idles but it's still pretty rough. Any help is very much appreciated. Here is a picture of the vacuum line coming from the intake and just ending
http://imgur.com/4xaVLAI

 

don't know to much about the 2.4 ,i would also check/clean the idle control valve and,throttle body check this thread should be same on 2000 also https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-s...atus-2-4l.html has a good picture of engine and egr valve location might be able to figure out where hose goes

 

Better check that timing again.


Do a compression test and post the results.

 

compression test shows 149 on 1 and about 160 on 2 3 and 4 (left to right), though we did check to see if 1 was leaking and it showed no sign. the results might be flawed aswell because at the time of checking the compression i did not know to remove the fuel pump relay and to disconnect the connection to the ignition coil as well as removing all spark plugs. the battery is toast so we were jumping it each time just removing the spark plug for the cylinder we were testing. would this effect the outcome?

 

checking the camshafts on the timing belt and one appears to be off by 1 tooth, so im following the timing belt removal instructions and its telling me to use a puller to remove the crankshaft damper pulley, but the god dam frame rail is in the way. the pulley hits the rail before its able to come off all the way. so how do i go about removing it? lower the engine down a bit?

 

The engine has to drop down some. You'll have to take the motor mount off and all that. It's sort of a bich even with a lift. At least it's not a PT Cruiser, they suck super hard.




When lined up, that timing setup will put the crank mark a little less than 1/2 tooth past the mark and the 2 cam slots dead level with each other and the top deck of the cylinder head. Make sure the "2.4" is showing on the cam sprockets as they are universal with 2.0 and 2.4. They flip around for the 2.0 and are marked as such.

 

Alright well I'll do that tomorrow, and so I just have to remove the one mount that's right above the crankshaft? With of course a jack and 2x6 on the oil pan to hold it up. And thanks for the help, I'll be learning this stuff soon, start going to school for it in a week!

 

Eat, drink and sleep electrical. That's where the very noticeable line is now between ones who get by and ones who excel (money wise anyway) Anyone can take a bolt out and put it back in.


EVERYTHING is controlled by a computer now, so basically 80% of the repair orders involve one of them at least.

 

Well of course! Haha I'm takin electrical systems, auto repair and welding