Anyone a turbo expert?

[Ice_Man_67]

Ok, i've got a turbo kit comin in the mail for my 2.0L SOHC and i have a few questions regarding all the boost/vacuume lines for the internal wastegate and blowoff valve... I know the internal wastegate is set at 7psi but i want to know if by using one of those boost contollers can i set it to say 5... or can you only go higher? As for the BOV do i use the vacuume line from the throttle body to controll it or how does that work?

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[BadStratRT]

with the waste gate question...you can set a MBC either way...

as for the BOV, you connect it to a vacuum connection behind the throttle body.

here are some crude drawings, hope that they help!


[IMG]local://upfiles/2745/BF6115B0E990433E96C6F079B34A5F8E.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/2745/7EFCD5410A604A86927A1ABFF3E5F03A.jpg[/IMG]

[Ice_Man_67]

wow, good stuff that's kind of what i was thinking...

but for the MBC would you not have it in between instead of T's off?

and for the intake vac line i think mine is on the Throttle body, here are some pics circled in red...



[IMG]local://upfiles/17990/FB07E4260CC54664BC1046B61555C5BD.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/17990/DC485841C14245849FE04EF57DE7F8F4.jpg[/IMG]

[BadStratRT]

for the BOV, you need a vacuum fitting anywhere behind the throttle body blade.

the MBC is the unit which you use to adjust the valve which goes where that "T" is...there are some that you just stick in there, and you have to adjust under the hood, but when i made that diagram, it was for someone who had an MBC with an in car control panel.

[Ice_Man_67]

Another question, would it be better to run with synthetic oil with a turbo or does it really matter?

[BadStratRT]

im not certain on that one...i dont know how the added heat of the turbo would affect certain oils..i would think that synthetic would be better..

[Thansen]

With turbos I would suggest running synthetic if you have a lot of money. If you do run synthetic, don't go back to regular. It will affect your gaskets adversely and cause all kinds of problems.

Anyway, I have a Turbo Dodge and the one thing that it expires a lot of, is oil. Every 750 miles I change my oil, and it comes out dark brown almost black. Synthetic is always better for the car, but expect 1200 to 1500 mile oil & filter change intervals. Also, an oil cooler is a good addition too so that you don't cook the oil and have it chemically break down. So, in a nutshell:

Synthetic = Good and expensive.
Regular = Decent and cheap.

[BadStratRT]

what kind of turbo dodge do you have?

[Thansen]

1989 Lebaron 2.5 T1 Premium. Runs like a bat out of h3ll.

[tomthedog]

just so you know i'm not talking shoot. i work on turbine eng's for uncle sam. we ONLY use synth oil. the color of the oil has NOT ONE THING to do with the condition of the oil. the oil we put in the eng is about 10 weight. it comes out of the can clear as water and filtered from the factory to 10 microns. the oil filter on the helo's i now work on have a 3 micron oil filter. in less than 20 hours of operation the oil goes from clear as water to a coffee color. this is caued by carbon in the exhaust getting stuck in the oil. if you want an oil expert go to the 1st gen neon page and contact DAS2123. he works at an oil lab and tells big fleets (think car rentals) when they need to change the oil.

the good thing about synth's is they can take ALOT more heat than reg oil without breaking down. ideal for turbo (short for turbine) engs. look into oil labs in your area. they can process a sample for between $20-40. they can tell if you have metal, carbon, or brass in the oil (basicly if your oil is still good or you really NEED to chang it). in auto apps synth oil can go for ALOT longer than reg oil, why they cost more. changing it that often is just tossing your money away. happy motoring.