Roll call just for our Shadow/Sundance & Duster owners!
#21
Might as well add my two p-bodies to the list.
First is my 93 Shadow ES, 3.0l, 5-spd convertible. Needed a radiator and some front end body work when i bought it, and I ended up re-gasketing the motor as well. My plan is to paint it and have it ready by the middle of summer.
The other is my 93 Sundance Duster clone. I inherited this car back in 99, and daily drove it for about 5 years. It started life as a 2.5l, auto, but I swaped it to a 5-spd back in 02. Hopefully I'll be able to get my spare 3.0 swapped in this year, but this car has been an on going project for the past few years.
First is my 93 Shadow ES, 3.0l, 5-spd convertible. Needed a radiator and some front end body work when i bought it, and I ended up re-gasketing the motor as well. My plan is to paint it and have it ready by the middle of summer.
The other is my 93 Sundance Duster clone. I inherited this car back in 99, and daily drove it for about 5 years. It started life as a 2.5l, auto, but I swaped it to a 5-spd back in 02. Hopefully I'll be able to get my spare 3.0 swapped in this year, but this car has been an on going project for the past few years.
#23
#24
I have an 88 Shadow and I need alot of help. I'm having problems with my brakes and I have no owners manual. I need the fuse box reference, some of the fuses are upside down and im not sure if they are suppose to be that way. i have changed the front brake pads on the car and bled the brakes. didnt work, about to change master cylinder, any help please???
#25
The fuses don't matter. They are a way of running the circuit through a smaller wire that will burn and disconnect the circuit if there is too high of amperage running through it. So it makes no difference. If the brake pedal is soft and won't brake, then there is 1) air in the brake line-seems you have remedied this. 2) The vacuum line to the booster is bad, broken or disconnected. 3) The bladder in the booster has gone bad. 4) The seals in the master cylinder have worn out and are allowing the fluid to seep through instead of generating hydraulic pressure to actuate the brakes. 5) There may be a leak in a brake line or wheel cylinder or caliper-you would definitely see brake fluid on the ground under the car if this was the case. It's just a matter of trouble-shooting to narrow it down to the most likely cause. On old cars, any of these are as likely as any other.
#26
#27
#28
I bought a new 90 Shadow and the only problem I had in the 85k miles I put on it was the turn signal relay in the steering column. It kept over-heating and burning out, so much so that it melted the plastic column cover. You have the 2.2L. The 2.5L was optional in 1989 and in 1990, it became standard.
#29
1992 Shadow Highline Convertible. 2.5 automatic. White (with gray primer and rust colored patches for highlights).
Bought from a friend about 10 years ago for my daughter's first car (her dream car at 16), was on road for a couple years after much basic work, then parked. Turns out we didn't do such a good job prepping it to sit, so it is now a major basket case but hoping to get it back on the road.
Bought from a friend about 10 years ago for my daughter's first car (her dream car at 16), was on road for a couple years after much basic work, then parked. Turns out we didn't do such a good job prepping it to sit, so it is now a major basket case but hoping to get it back on the road.
#30
New to the forum - I own a 94 Dodge Shadow Hatchback with a 2.5 and 5 speed manual, car belonged to my Mother-In-Law and I got it when she passed away and that was 80,000+ miles ago. I basically resurrected the car from near death as she never took care of it except for filling it with gas when needed. I like the car, fun to drive and gets excellent gas mileage, I just put a rebuilt engine in it as the original was burning oil and the head gasket started to leak. Next is to get the A/C working so I can keep a little cooler in the summer.