01 Ram 1500 Slight Backfire
#1
01 Ram 1500 Slight Backfire
Confused is the word that comes to mind right now to describe how I am feeling.
I decided to do plugs and wires on my 01 Ram 5.9 V8. Should be an easy job, right? Wrong. I did the plugs and wires. I used the E3 Diamond Fire spark plugs and a good set of plug wires. While installing the wires, I noticed that the distributor cap was loose on one side. I've had the truck for a year, and in that time haven't changed the plugs and wires. Strange, because that's usually one of the first things I do. The truck has 82,000 miles on it. The loose distributor cap was caused by only having one bolt holding the cap down, plus a zip tie on the other side. There was a broken bolt on the side with the zip tie. So, I removed the distributor, drilled out the broken screw, and reinstalled the distributor along with a new cap and rotor. The truck fires up, runs fairly smooth at idle.
When you drive the truck, it seems under very light throttle (while in motion) or when decelerating, it "surges" and may be backfiring just a little bit. But if you get on the throttle, it seems fine. Underpowered, but fine.
I need help to solve this problem because I need to take this truck on a road trip this coming weekend. Ideas?
I decided to do plugs and wires on my 01 Ram 5.9 V8. Should be an easy job, right? Wrong. I did the plugs and wires. I used the E3 Diamond Fire spark plugs and a good set of plug wires. While installing the wires, I noticed that the distributor cap was loose on one side. I've had the truck for a year, and in that time haven't changed the plugs and wires. Strange, because that's usually one of the first things I do. The truck has 82,000 miles on it. The loose distributor cap was caused by only having one bolt holding the cap down, plus a zip tie on the other side. There was a broken bolt on the side with the zip tie. So, I removed the distributor, drilled out the broken screw, and reinstalled the distributor along with a new cap and rotor. The truck fires up, runs fairly smooth at idle.
When you drive the truck, it seems under very light throttle (while in motion) or when decelerating, it "surges" and may be backfiring just a little bit. But if you get on the throttle, it seems fine. Underpowered, but fine.
I need help to solve this problem because I need to take this truck on a road trip this coming weekend. Ideas?
#2
#3
Also while your in there, check for proper spark plug wiring if you haven't already done so. Will help with any spark knock if you have experienced it.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm
#4
#6
no need to set the fuel sync if you pull it out and go right back in with it. its keyed at the bottom, only goes in one way.
I would check to make sure the wires are right and they are routed correctly.
I had a similar prob once where it ran fine but would have one single pop backfire when under light load, turned out i had an injection sticking open. i figured it out by starting the truck and one at a time unplugging the injections and listening to see if the idle got worse or not. I unplugged the #8 injection and the idle got smoother...drove it with the injector unplugged no pop...pulled the injectors and cleaned them all and be fine ever since.
I would check to make sure the wires are right and they are routed correctly.
I had a similar prob once where it ran fine but would have one single pop backfire when under light load, turned out i had an injection sticking open. i figured it out by starting the truck and one at a time unplugging the injections and listening to see if the idle got worse or not. I unplugged the #8 injection and the idle got smoother...drove it with the injector unplugged no pop...pulled the injectors and cleaned them all and be fine ever since.
#7
This is wrong. If you twist the distributor at all (think like trying to adjust the timing on an older car) it will change the fuel sync. Small movements have a BIG impact on it. The chances of stabbing the distributor back in, in the exact same spot are slim.
Otherwise, good info.
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#8
#9
to each their own, i am not going to agrue. i have had mine out and in , i have done the key on and off trick to try to set the fuel sync while at TDC and all that before. if it starts then the fuel sync is more than likely still in range. now the injector timing could be off by turning the distributor yes, which you can have a professional do it for you with the computer hooked up, or you can do it by ear with a helper.
raise the rpm up to about 1500-2000 and slightly turn the distributor until it smoothes out with no backfiring. the window is small, to much one way it will go to studdering, same the opposite way... if it dies pull it back and start it up again and try to find the middle of the two rough points.
if it turns out to be an injector, they can be pulled and cleaned with a couple wire leads and a can of cleaner. just take the nozzle tip off the cleaner can, and you can press the injector down on the stem enough that it will hold the pressure of the can, then take the wire leads from the battery and touch the contacts on the injector to open and close it. you want to do fast small purges to clean it the best.
raise the rpm up to about 1500-2000 and slightly turn the distributor until it smoothes out with no backfiring. the window is small, to much one way it will go to studdering, same the opposite way... if it dies pull it back and start it up again and try to find the middle of the two rough points.
if it turns out to be an injector, they can be pulled and cleaned with a couple wire leads and a can of cleaner. just take the nozzle tip off the cleaner can, and you can press the injector down on the stem enough that it will hold the pressure of the can, then take the wire leads from the battery and touch the contacts on the injector to open and close it. you want to do fast small purges to clean it the best.
#10
This is fuel sync. There is no key dance trick for setting fuel sync. It has to be done with a scanner that is capable of reading it, and someone twisting the distributor.
As for twisting the distributor as you described, that can (read might) get you close enough to get it somewhere to set it properly.
Interesting info on cleaning an injector. Don't think I've heard of doing that before, but it makes sense.
As for twisting the distributor as you described, that can (read might) get you close enough to get it somewhere to set it properly.
Interesting info on cleaning an injector. Don't think I've heard of doing that before, but it makes sense.