2000 neon no heat
#1
11-21-2016, 06:17 PM
#2
11-23-2016, 10:10 AM
I see you don't have any replies yet, so I'll see if I can get things started.
Were you having this problem Before the radiator replacement?
Did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time?
Did you also replace the thermostat & is the thermostat the specified temp range for this engine & is it letting the engine get up to Full operating temp?
When the engine is up to operating temp are the heater inlet & outlet hoses where they pass through the firewall getting Hot to the touch?
Were you having this problem Before the radiator replacement?
Did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time?
Did you also replace the thermostat & is the thermostat the specified temp range for this engine & is it letting the engine get up to Full operating temp?
When the engine is up to operating temp are the heater inlet & outlet hoses where they pass through the firewall getting Hot to the touch?
#3
11-23-2016, 12:28 PM
I see you don't have any replies yet, so I'll see if I can get things started.
Were you having this problem Before the radiator replacement?
Did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time?
Did you also replace the thermostat & is the thermostat the specified temp range for this engine & is it letting the engine get up to Full operating temp?
When the engine is up to operating temp are the heater inlet & outlet hoses where they pass through the firewall getting Hot to the touch?
Were you having this problem Before the radiator replacement?
Did this problem come about suddenly after some event, or slowly over time?
Did you also replace the thermostat & is the thermostat the specified temp range for this engine & is it letting the engine get up to Full operating temp?
When the engine is up to operating temp are the heater inlet & outlet hoses where they pass through the firewall getting Hot to the touch?
This is where I am at now been working all morning.
Radiator had a leak replace in the summer the heat was never really good in the car. This morning I replaced thermastat, undone hoses to heater core flushed the heater core it ran through with a hose easily. I then took off the radiator res tank cleaned it out. I also replaced the radiator cap. I refilled then drove the car. Both heater hoses are getting hot to the touch the car does get to temp. Still blows cold air.
#4
11-23-2016, 01:25 PM
Than you
This is where I am at now been working all morning.
Radiator had a leak replace in the summer the heat was never really good in the car. This morning I replaced thermastat, undone hoses to heater core flushed the heater core it ran through with a hose easily. I then took off the radiator res tank cleaned it out. I also replaced the radiator cap. I refilled then drove the car. Both heater hoses are getting hot to the touch the car does get to temp. Still blows cold air.
This is where I am at now been working all morning.
Radiator had a leak replace in the summer the heat was never really good in the car. This morning I replaced thermastat, undone hoses to heater core flushed the heater core it ran through with a hose easily. I then took off the radiator res tank cleaned it out. I also replaced the radiator cap. I refilled then drove the car. Both heater hoses are getting hot to the touch the car does get to temp. Still blows cold air.
Seeing as how you say the system never seemed to have had proper heat but Both heater hoses are getting hot, it means you have good flow through the heater core, so the problem seems to be with the blend door, or such, not moving as it should, to fully redirect air coming through the heater core.
So have a look in cabin at the dash controls & where they connect to the cabin Heater/A/C air box ducting, to make sure nothing is loose, disconnected, or broken where they attach on Both ends.
EDIT: Refer to this sites FSM on the heater/AC section for where things are located in PL 24-1
Last edited by paw paw; 11-23-2016 at 01:35 PM.
#5
11-23-2016, 01:46 PM
Ok that's good feedback, so lets think about this some more.
Seeing as how you say the system never seemed to have had proper heat but Both heater hoses are getting hot, it means you have good flow through the heater core, so the problem seems to be with the blend door, or such, not moving as it should, to fully redirect air coming through the heater core.
So have a look in cabin at the dash controls & where they connect to the cabin Heater/A/C air box ducting, to make sure nothing is loose, disconnected, or broken where they attach on Both ends.
EDIT: Refer to this sites FSM on the heater/AC section for where things are located in PL 24-1
Seeing as how you say the system never seemed to have had proper heat but Both heater hoses are getting hot, it means you have good flow through the heater core, so the problem seems to be with the blend door, or such, not moving as it should, to fully redirect air coming through the heater core.
So have a look in cabin at the dash controls & where they connect to the cabin Heater/A/C air box ducting, to make sure nothing is loose, disconnected, or broken where they attach on Both ends.
EDIT: Refer to this sites FSM on the heater/AC section for where things are located in PL 24-1
Getting back to my heater core I feel both hoses getting hot but the one hose does seem to be a little hotter then the other one. Also what is the easiest way to check for or get air out of the cooling system. I am at a loss.
Thanks again
#6
11-23-2016, 02:25 PM
Here is a link to the FSM http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neon2000fsm.html
To deair a cooling system after it's been drained & refilled, use the type thermostat that has a air bleed poppet bypass valve design, as it can make the deair cycle easier & faster.
Raise the front end on ramps, stands, or park with the front end facing Uphill, the higher/steeper the better, so as to make the radiator fill the high point.
Turn the heater Temp control to the Max heat position.
Squeeze the lower radiator hose to pre burp the system until the radiator level stops dropping, then top the radiator & recovery tank up & replace the caps.
Start the engine & let it idle until it warms up fully & the thermostat opens. You'll know when the thermostat opens, as the upper radiator hose will get hot & the dash engine temp gauge reading will peak & then drop. Do this with the vehicle in the front end uphill/raised position, so as to chase any entrapped air back to the radiator so it can be burped out after the system cools down.
Let it run for say 5-10 minutes to allow any trapped air to make its way back to the radiator, then shut the engine off. Leave the front end raised & leave the hood up, as it'll help the engine cool faster.
If you'll mark the recovery tank level & check to see if the coolant level dropped after the engine fully cools down, you'll be able to notice if the system burped any air & topped the system up.
If you've trapped a lot of air on the refill, or are using a thermostat without the air bypass design, you may need to run more than one warm up & cool down cycle with the front end raised.
When I refill my cooling systems, I choose to loosen the heater return hose, so the heater core can burp easier. Just watch it as you refill & when coolant begins to trickle out the return hose, reconnect it & most of the air in the heater core will have been replaced with coolant.
Then with the bypass valve thermostat in place, milking the lower radiator hose before the engine start, can usually chase most entrapped air past the thermostat back to the open radiator to burp & we can top up & get a nearly complete fluid refill.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.
To deair a cooling system after it's been drained & refilled, use the type thermostat that has a air bleed poppet bypass valve design, as it can make the deair cycle easier & faster.
Raise the front end on ramps, stands, or park with the front end facing Uphill, the higher/steeper the better, so as to make the radiator fill the high point.
Turn the heater Temp control to the Max heat position.
Squeeze the lower radiator hose to pre burp the system until the radiator level stops dropping, then top the radiator & recovery tank up & replace the caps.
Start the engine & let it idle until it warms up fully & the thermostat opens. You'll know when the thermostat opens, as the upper radiator hose will get hot & the dash engine temp gauge reading will peak & then drop. Do this with the vehicle in the front end uphill/raised position, so as to chase any entrapped air back to the radiator so it can be burped out after the system cools down.
Let it run for say 5-10 minutes to allow any trapped air to make its way back to the radiator, then shut the engine off. Leave the front end raised & leave the hood up, as it'll help the engine cool faster.
If you'll mark the recovery tank level & check to see if the coolant level dropped after the engine fully cools down, you'll be able to notice if the system burped any air & topped the system up.
If you've trapped a lot of air on the refill, or are using a thermostat without the air bypass design, you may need to run more than one warm up & cool down cycle with the front end raised.
When I refill my cooling systems, I choose to loosen the heater return hose, so the heater core can burp easier. Just watch it as you refill & when coolant begins to trickle out the return hose, reconnect it & most of the air in the heater core will have been replaced with coolant.
Then with the bypass valve thermostat in place, milking the lower radiator hose before the engine start, can usually chase most entrapped air past the thermostat back to the open radiator to burp & we can top up & get a nearly complete fluid refill.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.
Last edited by paw paw; 11-23-2016 at 02:28 PM.
#7
11-23-2016, 02:58 PM
Here is a link to the FSM http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neon2000fsm.html
To deair a cooling system after it's been drained & refilled, use the type thermostat that has a air bleed poppet bypass valve design, as it can make the deair cycle easier & faster.
Raise the front end on ramps, stands, or park with the front end facing Uphill, the higher/steeper the better, so as to make the radiator fill the high point.
Turn the heater Temp control to the Max heat position.
Squeeze the lower radiator hose to pre burp the system until the radiator level stops dropping, then top the radiator & recovery tank up & replace the caps.
Start the engine & let it idle until it warms up fully & the thermostat opens. You'll know when the thermostat opens, as the upper radiator hose will get hot & the dash engine temp gauge reading will peak & then drop. Do this with the vehicle in the front end uphill/raised position, so as to chase any entrapped air back to the radiator so it can be burped out after the system cools down.
Let it run for say 5-10 minutes to allow any trapped air to make its way back to the radiator, then shut the engine off. Leave the front end raised & leave the hood up, as it'll help the engine cool faster.
If you'll mark the recovery tank level & check to see if the coolant level dropped after the engine fully cools down, you'll be able to notice if the system burped any air & topped the system up.
If you've trapped a lot of air on the refill, or are using a thermostat without the air bypass design, you may need to run more than one warm up & cool down cycle with the front end raised.
When I refill my cooling systems, I choose to loosen the heater return hose, so the heater core can burp easier. Just watch it as you refill & when coolant begins to trickle out the return hose, reconnect it & most of the air in the heater core will have been replaced with coolant.
Then with the bypass valve thermostat in place, milking the lower radiator hose before the engine start, can usually chase most entrapped air past the thermostat back to the open radiator to burp & we can top up & get a nearly complete fluid refill.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.
To deair a cooling system after it's been drained & refilled, use the type thermostat that has a air bleed poppet bypass valve design, as it can make the deair cycle easier & faster.
Raise the front end on ramps, stands, or park with the front end facing Uphill, the higher/steeper the better, so as to make the radiator fill the high point.
Turn the heater Temp control to the Max heat position.
Squeeze the lower radiator hose to pre burp the system until the radiator level stops dropping, then top the radiator & recovery tank up & replace the caps.
Start the engine & let it idle until it warms up fully & the thermostat opens. You'll know when the thermostat opens, as the upper radiator hose will get hot & the dash engine temp gauge reading will peak & then drop. Do this with the vehicle in the front end uphill/raised position, so as to chase any entrapped air back to the radiator so it can be burped out after the system cools down.
Let it run for say 5-10 minutes to allow any trapped air to make its way back to the radiator, then shut the engine off. Leave the front end raised & leave the hood up, as it'll help the engine cool faster.
If you'll mark the recovery tank level & check to see if the coolant level dropped after the engine fully cools down, you'll be able to notice if the system burped any air & topped the system up.
If you've trapped a lot of air on the refill, or are using a thermostat without the air bypass design, you may need to run more than one warm up & cool down cycle with the front end raised.
When I refill my cooling systems, I choose to loosen the heater return hose, so the heater core can burp easier. Just watch it as you refill & when coolant begins to trickle out the return hose, reconnect it & most of the air in the heater core will have been replaced with coolant.
Then with the bypass valve thermostat in place, milking the lower radiator hose before the engine start, can usually chase most entrapped air past the thermostat back to the open radiator to burp & we can top up & get a nearly complete fluid refill.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.
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#8
11-23-2016, 06:21 PM
well I done what you said and I managed to find some bad news. I took it for a drive and have had it on defrost the whole time and on defrost you can only have fresh air coming in. Well I thought I would try and see if heat would come out the dash vents and have it on recurculate through the interior (no outside air) and I will be darn if we got a little bit of heat. The problem is it also fogged up the windows and I believe that means heater core is most likely leaking. Even if that isnt the problem with no heat it has to be replaced because of the window fogging and possible leak. I been looking a bit on replacing it and it looks like it is a major expensive job. My question is would anyone know of the easiest way to do this job. I am not sure if I can do it looks tough and it is expensive to have someone do it. Any advice appreciated and thanks for all the help.
#10
11-24-2016, 09:20 AM
well I done what you said and I managed to find some bad news. I took it for a drive and have had it on defrost the whole time and on defrost you can only have fresh air coming in. Well I thought I would try and see if heat would come out the dash vents and have it on recurculate through the interior (no outside air) and I will be darn if we got a little bit of heat. The problem is it also fogged up the windows and I believe that means heater core is most likely leaking. Even if that isnt the problem with no heat it has to be replaced because of the window fogging and possible leak. I been looking a bit on replacing it and it looks like it is a major expensive job. My question is would anyone know of the easiest way to do this job. I am not sure if I can do it looks tough and it is expensive to have someone do it. Any advice appreciated and thanks for all the help.
Don't know what part of the states your in, but if your in cold country & were riding around with the windows closed & the heater on recirculate, the relative humidity if high enough, along with our body & exhale moisture, can cause the windows to fog up.
Now if you were also smelling the sweet aroma of coolant, or see coolant dripping from the A/C condensate firewall drain point, Then suspect a leaking heater core.