1991 dodge b350 200k+miles TBI
I owned it 2 years.

The fuel filter is from 92 male female coupling, not the male male coupling of the 91.
So far the only factory part from next year model.

The symptoms started last week when I drove about 5 miles slow and steady 45mph.
The engine acted like it was out of fuel.
Then after sitting about 10 mins I could start and drive, but as soon as it was fully warm. It would stall again. I did this all the way to the auto parts store.

Trouble codes
12 start report
33 Ac relay… no ac in the van
37- transmission sensors… this is always on 2 years running.
55- end codes
Cleared fault codes before taking the van for a test drive.

1. First thing changed the distributor cap it was disintegrating from heat. Replaced 2years ago.
   
2. Changed the fuel filter.
   
3. Then replaced the coil it is very hot.

Then I hit the forums…most everyone said Coolant temperature sensor or hall effect.

The local auto parts guy said head gasket. I did compression test all cylinders come in about 70psi. I do have slight exhaust leak.

I bought a meter. mine had trust issues.

The hall reported 9v in the test and the test said it needs to be within 1v of the battery. Battery tested 12.9

I tested the Throttle Position sensor. .9 at closed 3.45 at open on a cold engine.

Most of the electronics were replaced 2 years ago before taking a long trip
Including the ASD Auto shut down relay.

Still experiencing same issue. But now it seems to backfire when it tries to stall as I pump the gas to keep it going.

Back to the forums.
gskara at plowsite.com said to someone like me.

eliminate all possibilities. quit spectulating. check fuel pressure w/ gauge. all filters clog inline or tank. also pressure regulators stick.


That is next
The TBI is de pressurized I will go to the parts store to get carb cleaner and clean the tbi and sensors.
Checked fuel pressure if it acts up.
Changing old fuel tubing while I install pressure gauge.

Fuel pressure 14 or 1 bar.
Drove to the auto parts store, bought carb cleaner.
On my way home it did the same thing it has been doing.

• Sprayed down TBi with carb cleaner

Disconnected battery and PCM cleaned PCM with air.
10 mins reconnect PCM and battery

Drove about 10 mins.
Shutdown again fuel pressure 1bar 14psi.

THROTTLE Body temperature sensor?
MAP Sesor?
Both Check out to be good according the the specs in the service manual.

What’s next? Someone said there is a 6” hose in the fuel pump that could cause this?

 

Ok I am not one to just wait for help..
Next up going through the TBI.
We will see what that produces.

After reading many forums last night I think I can safely remove the AutoShut Relay. I will still check it but think it is not the issue as it does not shut down like that.

According to the forums it still points to a TPS or might be the TB Fuel Temp.
I am also going to preform a few more full regulator tests to see if it really is not the fuel pump or fuel regulator.

Oh..The fun of owning a dodge.. But if it s not a jeep, its a dodge.. I love them until days like this.


Its Sunday say a prayer for me please.
PJ

 

70 PSI is way too low, it should be up around 120-140 PSI. Your timing chain could be overly stretched or loose enough where it jumped a tooth. You could retest the compression on a warmed up motor to see if it's that low only because it was cold.

 

Thanks Alloro,

But the compression has not changed in 2 years. I measured it then when I had similar issues. This is definitely electrical issue. It is an old high mileage truck, and even has a slight knock and valve rattling on start up...
I was told that compression was too low then, 2 years later still drives slow and steady.

Something hits the correct temperature to fail and fails.
TPS and Throttle Body Temp Sensor are the last 2 things to check.
I have a new map sensor I bought the last time I had this issue which was solved with some relay.


I am hoping for the next logical sensor to check for failure. I have no codes but the 37 and I can an answer if that could cause this issue.


Thanks for your help I do agree the Compression is too low but no leak down and figured it has to do with the overall engine being worn out.

It was raining today so I did not do the intended tests, but did pinch off the fuel pressure to see if it surged.. It does so it is not the fuel pump for certain.

 

I have confirmed that the ERG seems to be blocked.
I also confirmed that the fuel Pressure Regulator does not have a vacuum.

I read that the Fuel pressure regulator does not have a vacuum but the haynes says it does.
I can blow into the port and try to hand vacuum the port with no avail. I tend to believe the guy who said it is actually a drain if the regulator leaks gas

I cleaned the Fuel injectors but should think about hitting them with sea foam

If I need to change the ERG it will not be fun.. It is really rusted in place.

The TPS checks out correct.
The TB Temp Sensor checks on the cold.