Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 With 6" lift and 36" tires
Location: Westminster Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Travel responsibly on designated roads and trails or in permitted areas.
Travel only in areas open to four-wheel drive vehicles.
For your safety, travel straight up or down hills. Don’t traverse the face of a hill; you may slip sideways or roll your vehicle.
Drive over, not around obstacles to avoid widening the trail.
Cross large rocks and other obstacles slowly, at an angle one wheel at a time.
Cross ravines slowly at a 45-degree angle.
Straddle ruts, gullies, and washouts even if they are wider than your vehicle.
Cross streams only at designated fording points, or where the road crosses the stream.
When possible, avoid mud. Save wet, muddy trails for another day when they are dry. If you do come upon mud on the trail, don’t widen the trail by going around it. Drive through it by going easy on the gas to avoid wheel spin, which can cause rutting.
Don’t turn around on narrow roads, steep terrain, or unstable ground. Backup until you find a safe place to turn around.
Stop frequently and reconnoiter ahead on foot.
Go easy on the throttle and avoid riding the brake or clutch.
To help with traction, balance your load and lower tire pressure to where you see a bulge (typically not less than 20 pounds).
Know where the differential or the lowest point on your vehicle is.
Maintain a reasonable distance between vehicles.
Comply with all signs and barriers.
Travel with a group of two or more vehicles. Driving solo can leave you vulnerable if you have an accident or breakdown. Designate meeting areas in case of separation.
Choose the appropriate winch for your vehicle size.
Attach towing cable, tree strap, or chain as low as possible to the object being winched. Let the winch do the work; never drive the winch.
Riding Tips
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Vehicle: 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 With 6" lift and 36" tires
Location: Westminster Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Tips for driving in water
For those who have hydro locked an engine
Most 4x4s can be driven in water that is axle-deep without taking special precautions. (Max. wading depth is about 20 inches.) When the water is deeper, you need to know where your engine’s air intake and engine computer are located and don’t allow water to enter. Switch off headlights and allow them to cool, as sudden contact with cold water will cause the glass to crack.
If you place a tarp across the front of your vehicle prior to entering very deep water, you will minimize the water entering the engine bay by creating a bow wave, so long as you maintain a brisk forward momentum. The result: less water will be sprayed over the ignition system by the radiator fan and less chance of water entering the air intake.
When crossing shallow streams, drive slow and steady to create a small bow wave in front of your bumper that will reduce the height of the water behind the bumper and keep the water away from the air intake and electronics. Select low range and first gear, and keep steering straight.
When crossing fast-flowing shallow streams, cross at an angle and drive slightly upstream. This presents a smaller surface area and lessens the force of the stream on the vehicle. (Never cross fast-flowing deep streams, as your vehicle can be swept away.)
Apply your brakes several times after crossing water or deep mud to dry them out.
Here's something I read a while back and thought it hit most critical points while out and about. Also, another point that I wanted to add, Wash you vehicle thoroughly as already stated. Twice because the first time will soften up mud for the 2nd wash in areas that you cannot see or reach. And then, place a rotating "wiggly" type sprinkler or the kind of sprinkler that fans towards the sky. You will be amazed how much more dirt/mud or sand will be sitting in the driveway afterwards. Generally you move the sprinkler around from front to back and let it sit there for a few hours like you would your lawn or even overnight if you want. This is the best tip/trick I can give anyone that goes offroading or drives on the beach regularly.
The Lecture
First, the soapbox: No one likes a showoff, especially one who tries to drive where he or she shouldn't or puts other drivers in jeopardy. Make sure you don't exceed your driving ability--in time you'll be ready to climb with the big boys. Also, don't exceed your vehicle's capability--it's not worth breaking parts to put your truck where no man has before. And be sure to travel with another vehicle and let someone at home know where you are in case something goes wrong. Just use common sense, and remember this is your hobby--practice your skills and think of each time you go 'wheeling as a learning experience. The Examination
Yeah, we know you're anxious to hit the dirt, but before you go four-wheeling you need to inspect your vehicle inside and out, top to bottom, and over and under. You want to make sure that nothing will fail when you hit the trail. Do all of these steps again after 'wheeling to make sure that nothing will fail when you hit the highway.
*Check all fluids under the hood
*Check for leaks, such as oil or water
*Inspect the fan belts and water hoses
*Make sure the battery is secure
*Look for undercarriage leaks or broken suspension components
*Make sure the horn, wiper blades, and windshield washers work
*Check that the headlights and brake lights work
*Be sure the seatbelts are functioning properly
*Look for wear spots on the tires and check the pressure of all them, including the spare First Period: In a Rut
Drive slowly and straddle ruts. If you try to drive inside a rut, the momentum could tip you over (even if it's a wide rut). If it's too wide to straddle, run the tires' sidewall along the inside of the rut to maintain balance. Cross a ravine at a 45-degree angle, driving slowly and turning into the depression, not away. Know your angles of approach and departure as you cross a ditch so you don't smack your bumpers. Second Period: Splish, Splash
Since murky water could be a bottomless pit, check its depth before driving through by crossing on foot or using a stick to find the bottom. You want to cross streams only at fording points. Cross slowly at a 90-degree angle to minimize streambed damage. Try to cross where the water will be below the grille so you don't drown the engine intake. Water up to the hubs is OK; use caution with bumper-deep or bottom-of-the-headlights levels, and check the air intake. Start your departure facing downstream at a bit of an angle, and watch for submerged rocks or other obstacles. If you do come across logs or rocks, it's easier to cross them at a slight angle, one tire at a time, rather than head-on. If you swamp a newer vehicle, crawl out of the window to escape. Some late-models have the electronic control module (ECM) underneath the seat and you risk damaging it if you open the door. Third Period: Just for the Hill of It
Going up? Make sure you know what's on the other side of the mountain. If you don't, use caution when you reach the top.
Take the hill straight on. Don't drive across the face of the hill or you could slide sideways--the angle increases the rollover potential. Build up your speed, then decrease it as you approach the top, especially if you don't know what's on the other side or if you don't have a spotter.
If you have a manual tranny and stall, don't push the clutch in--leave the truck in gear and start it if you can; some late-model trucks have clutch interlock systems that make this impossible. If you're in a truck that uses an automatic transmission, put it in Neutral and back straight down, then try the hill again. Avoid turning the wheels as you back down or you could lose control and roll. When you're driving forward down a hill, use the lowest gears and ease down it. Use the brakes very little if at all, and don't ride the clutch. Fourth Period: Rock On
When approaching a large rock, put a tire on it rather than trying to straddle it, or you might high-center the truck. Drive slowly in 4-Lo but with enough throttle to maintain momentum. You'd be surprised at how much suspension travel your 4x4 actually has--most people panic about rolling without giving the suspension a chance to articulate. Extra Credit
Remember, don't try to drive over an obstacle or trail that makes you uncomfortable. And don't feel embarrased about asking someone to spot for you. Even those with many four-wheeling notches in their belts need help once and a while. If you feel like you need a helping hand or just a refresher course, sign up for an off-road class such as EVOC's. The best way to gain experience is to learn from the experienced.
Riding Tips
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
Offcamber (on hills)....
Off-camber situation is when you are sideways on a hill.
Avoid off-camber situations, avoid going sideways on a hill or descent. Going sideways could cause your vehicle to roll.
If you find yourself in this situation, Stop - do not continue to drive sideways on a hill.
Turn your wheels downward (toward the bottom of hill).
Depending on your situation, you may be able to drive downward
Or, use reverse until you can straighten yourself out
Going uphill....
Always know what's at the top before starting up.
In extreme uphill climbs, only one vehicle at a time.
Once you have completed the obstacle, clear the area and signal the next vehicle to proceed.
Always drive straight when going up or down hills.
Never attempt to drive sideways on a hill.
Going downhill....
Know what's at the bottom before you start down.
Always go straight down the hill.
If you're with a group, don't begin the descent until you are completely certain the hill is clear of any vehicles.
Always use 4WD low range, 1st or 2nd gear depending on the slope angle and slope surface.
Allow "engine braking" to take you downward slowly. Put it in gear and let the clutch out. No gas and no brakes.
If you feel you are going too fast, tap the brakes. Never hold the brakes, and avoid locking the brakes.
A common thing among most "pavement queens" for that tough look, but plan on suiting up for anything offroad. While the typical Walmart Hella 500 lights will be sufficient for most on road guys, the avid off-roader will get bored and not be able to see things he should.
One thing to remember when you pick out a set of lights is that there are 2 specific styles. Pencil beams which are very narrow and project the light far and then there are wider angle beams that are very wide but do not project far at all similar to fog beams. Now, if you are looking for visibility and economy, I would recommend at the minimum picking up a set of wide angle beams for the outside set and a pair of narrow beams for the inside set and mounting them on the top of your cab or on a bull bar in the front. Just make sure that if you mount them on a bull bar, it may hinder any part of a winch you may have so you need to accommodate accordingly. The lights that are place on the top of the cab put the lights 8-10ft further back which will illuminate much more on the sides of your truck, plus the will illuminate more in front of you since they are placed up higher than your factory headlights. Also, you won't have to worry about any water contact if they are on top of the truck as most of the "cheaper" lights have a glass surface which is very prone to cracking when cold water comes into contact with them after they have been on for a while and heated up. You can guarantee yourself a cracked lens or 2 if you mount your lights on a bull-bar and drive through any water higher than your bumper at initial impact since most of the time you enter water your at a downward angle which tends to dip your nose into the water a bit. That's too much water for me personally anyways. Boats are made for that depth not trucks! Two each his own. Not to say expensive lights don't come with glass faces, but a polycarbonate plastic is the best solution for flying rocks and slinging water. I set my brother-in-laws Wrangler up so he has 4 mounted on a roof rack up top (2wide outers and 2 pencil inners) and he has 2 ambers on his bumper plus his factory headlights were upgraded to HID's. WIRING
Make sure you wire them on a completely seperate fuse than the rest of everything else if you have more than one set of lights. Those suckers draw alot of power and you can start to melt the factory wiring if you start plugging them into each other like most people do their Christmas lights. Never a good things. Sure they may work, but for how long??? Choosing There are many good brand out there and it's really personal preference and all depends on what type of driving you do and how much of it is at night. Just remember, it's generally darker in the woods than on open road and it gets darker sooner as well.
Hella has come out with a new ATP style light. All Terrain Pattern which is a mix of the pencil beam and the wide angle fog style beam. It's a greate all around light if budget is key and you can sacrifice a little distance and width for overall performance.
We could speak volumes about tires, the technology behind their construction, tread design, and how design affects on- and off-highway performance. We can't possibly detail every aspect of the modern tire in a single article, so we'll just focus on the finer points of fitment and function. We are asked almost daily, "What's the best tire?" Our answer is a question, "What are you going to use the tire for, and what kind of performance do you expect out of it?" Just like a comfortable pair of shoes, tire selection sometimes comes down to personal preference. Sure, everyone has their favorite tires, and we definitely applaud modern tire technology and its higher quality and construction. We know that some tires work better than others in certain types of terrain, but a tire one of us may like, the other may hate.
There are numerous factors to consider when choosing tire size. Extreme off-roading almost always requires a taller tire with an oversized footprint for better traction and ground clearance. It's not rocket science-the more ground clearance between the lowest point of the vehicle and the ground, the more places the rig will be able to travel. The drawback is that the larger the tire, the more suspension and body modifications are needed, and that can get expensive. Let's also not forget that too tall of a vehicle dangerously increases the rig's center of gravity, rendering its off-highway performance ineffectual for real world four-wheeling. In our opinion, for all-around wheeling, if oversized tires can properly be stuffed in a vehicle's wheelwell with the least amount of lift, the vehicle will not only be safer on the trail, but more capable and agile.
While some tires are great for all-around use and work exceptionally well on- and off-highway, others are purpose-built for specific types of terrain. Some off-road tires feature more complex designs than others, but the bottom line when it comes to performance is its direct contact with the road surface. This is called the contact patch. There are generally three key segments of a tire when it comes to overall traction and performance: lugs, void, and sipes. We all know that the tread is the single most critical aspect relating to a tire's overall performance. Large, open areas of a tread are called voids and are used to channel away mud, water, and dirt. Tires with a mud-terrain tread use large lugs for traction and have high-void content. Tires with an all-terrain tread design use small lugs and less void area than a mud-specific tread pattern. The small slits cut into some tires' tread lugs are termed sipes and are designed to route away water from the tread as it becomes trapped between the road surface and the tire's tread.
There are two types of tire construction: radial and bias-ply. The main body (carcass) is constructed using nylon body cords encircled by nylon or stainless steel tread-stabilizing belts (plies). The direction that the carcass cords are arranged is what determines whether a tire is a radial or a bias-ply. The majority of off-road tires are steel-belted radials, which have dominated the market for several years, but it wasn't too long ago when most tires 40 inches and taller were bias-ply. There are still plenty of popular bias-ply tires like the competition-proven Creepy Crawler M8090 from Maxxis, the Mickey Thompson Baja Claw, and tires from Interco, especially the Irok.
Radial Tire Construction
The main reason for the radial's popularity and increased performance lies in its design, which uses body carcass cords that run radially-from bead to bead-in a 90-degree angle to the tread's centerline. The benefit of radial cords is the reduction in deflection at the tire's shoulder and sidewall segments. The curve of the radial cords creates lower rolling resistance, which reduces tread wear. The stabilization belts-normally of steel cord construction-stabilize the tire tread against excessive movement and also greatly add to the radial's puncture resistance.
Tough Sidewalls
We can't talk about tire belting and toughness without mentioning sidewall belting. Obviously, the more belts the tire has on the sidewall the more puncture-resistant it will be. Remember that while four-wheeling most of us air down our tires for a larger footprint (contact patch). The tire will conform better to uneven surfaces, giving it more traction. Keep in mind that the more belts on the sidewall, the stiffer the tire may be, and even when it's aired down, the footprint could remain the same, lessoning its traction capabilities.
Bias-Ply Tire Construction
On a bias-ply tire, the carcass is formed with nylon (fabric) cords that run in a diagonal path from bead to bead. The cords-there are two groups-cross over at a typical angle of 34 degrees to the tread centerline. Consider the fact that the long (compared to radial cords) bias cords allow for flex of the tread area, which brings the negative effect of increased rolling resistance and a resulting decrease in tread life. One benefit of bias-ply tires is their higher load rating compared to radial tires. The bias cords-used without stabilizing belts-are thicker, which makes for a tire carcass with very stiff sidewalls, meaning increased load capacity.
Mud Tires
Another question you might be asking is, which tire works better: an all-terrain or a mud-terrain? Many factors come into play, including personal preference and driver skill. Sure, a typical mud tire works better in the mud, and an all-terrain tire has better street manners, but does one or the other truly offer better performance on general trail rides? Mud-terrain tires will outperform all-terrain tires in thick mud almost every time. The small voids on the all-terrain tread quickly fill up and pack with mud. This causes them to lose traction almost immediately. Mud-terrain tires have the ability to shed mud through their larger voids, helping maintain traction. Some mud tires like the BFG Mud-Terrain KM and the Cooper Discoverer STT have a stone and debris ejector rib in the void between the lugs to help keep them clean.
Street Performance
Traditionally mud-terrain tires have a tendency to create more road noise, but some of the newer, more expensive tires like the Toyo Open Country M/T have a special computer-designed tread pattern that offers great off-highway traction while delivering a quiet highway ride. If you are driving a mud-terrain tire on the street, pay careful attention to air pressure and keep them properly balanced. Once a mud-terrain tire is out of balance and worn unevenly, they'll create a deafening road noise that's pretty cool to most, but can get annoying to some. Most all-terrain tires with smaller voids have a tendency to be less noisy-this also means there's more rubber in contact with the highway, which offers better braking characteristics. All-terrains also offer less rolling resistance, which can lead to better fuel economy. They usually offer longer tread life and deliver more mileage than a mud-terrain before they're worn out.
Sand Wheeling
The vote is still out on mud- versus all-terrain tires in deep soft sand, at least among the staff here at the magazine. The general theory is that when properly aired down, an all-terrain tire will float across soft sand, while a mud-terrain tire will have a tendency to dig itself in. However, we have had exceptional success wheeling in soft sand with mud-terrain tires. The key to successfully negotiating sand is not to stop on inclines or places that look like you might get stuck. Also, don't stop abruptly, and don't start off by flooring it, the tires will dig in and bury themselves.
Rock Traction
There is an exception to every rule, but we have proven that mud-terrain tires perform better and last longer in harsh rocky conditions. This is due to the fact that the larger tread lugs with high voids offer a better bite and claw their way up and over uneven rocky surfaces. Mud tires also last longer in harsh conditions because there's more rubber designed into the tread. Most mud tires also have side lugs, which offer additional traction and protection when the tire is aired down. Nitto Tire, BFGoodrich, Pro Comp Tires, and a few other companies offer specially constructed competition tires that are made with a sticky compound for exceptional traction above and beyond most other tires. They are, however, designed for off-road use only and usually sold only through the tire's race programs.
Truck Parts
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
For those that are looking for 4x4 related calculations pertaining the following ...
▪ Ring Pinion and Gear Ratio
▪ Speedometer Converter
▪ Find new Gear Ratio with new Tire Size
▪ Find Overall Crawl Ratio
▪ Find MPH
▪ Find RPM
▪ Convert P-Metric Tire to Inches
I tried everything to post the chart, but no matter what I did it would not come up so here is a link to the guide.
For those that are putting bigger tires on and have questions about what gear ratios are needed for highway, a daily driver, or someone that tows or is looking for a lot of torque... http://www.onandoffroad4wheeldrive.c...atio_guide.htm
remember that with 4x4's the biggest gear that we can run is 4.56's, but if you have a 2wd you can run 4.88's.
I went to Walmart and purchased a set of Hella 500FF lights. They have 2 different kinds of 500's. The 500 regulars which is a Fog light style beam and the 500FF which is a "free Form" and has a clear lens which is used as a Driving light.
Now, they give you all the wiring, the relay, wire nuts, rocker switch..etc that you need for the install.
This is great if you want the lights to only come on with your high beams, but if you want a completely separate switch that is isolated all by itself, your going to need to cut the factory ends off and do a little revising as well as purchase an additional rocker switch to handle the direct load. They give plenty of wire to run to the dash, so you can cut that and use the red/black/yellow wires or you can choose to use all new wiring as I did because I needed to upgrade for more powerful bulbs.
Another thing is that they give you 55watt bulbs. These are the same wattage as your headlights, so unless you like having 4 headlights I would really suggest throwing those out and picking up some 100watt bulbs. You could even get 130watt or 150watt bulbs, but I chose to get the 100watt bulbs as that is what my local auto parts store carried and I didn't want to get into bulky wiring.
For the wiring, If you plan on keeping the 55w bulbs, you can use the measly 16ga or 18ga wire that they give with the lights. I cannot remember which gauge it is, but it's thin. However, I went overkill and used 12ga. wire in case I ever wanted to upgrade to the 130watt or 150 watt bulbs. A rule of thumb to figure what size(gauge) wire needed is to figure out the amps or current that it will draw. amps=(bulb wattagex2)/volts. In this case you can figure on 13volts for the car. So a 100watt set of bulbs in the above equation will draw 100x2=200w 200w/13v=15.5 amps You always want to round up when possible. In order to determine which gauge wire will be suitable, you need to figure out the length in which the wires will be. The longer the wire the thicker it will need to be because of added resistance. I won't get all technical so I'll make it really easy. If the above math is used, figure on most cars using less than 10ft of wire for each strand. If you run 100watt bulbs for a pair of lights, you can use 14guage wire effectively and using a maximum 20amp fuse. If you want to use 130watt or 150watt bulbs you will need to use 12ga wire and a 30amp fuse so you do not exceed the amount of current in which the wire can handle. This is how wire insulation melts and fires happen. I pulled out all of the wires inside the housings and ran 12ga for everything! It is very important to maintain the same wire gauge for everything. You should never crimp a 12ga wire to a 16ga wire unless the circuit only requires the use of a 16ga wire! 14ga is a bit easier to work with for this sorta thing, so again if you plan on keeping and using 100w bulbs, then just use 14ga. It's much cheaper too.
For the actual wiring, if you want to use your headlights or high beams for a switched fog light set-up I suggest following the directions that are supplied with the lights. If you want to have a completely isolated set-up that operates on it's own behalf and only on a rocker switch that you control, follow these steps. First before anything, if you are changing the wire gauge or bulbs, you should work with the lights on a bench prior to installing them.
I mounted the rocker switch on the underside of the dash. Luckily the 06-08 Rams have a 1-1/2"x2" pop -out piece that makes life easy for mounting.
I used my dremel to cut a hole big enough for my rocker switch that I purchased at the auto parts store. I chose an LED one so it's lit when they are on(just the tiny bulb, not the whole face is lit). You need to make sure the switch can handle the load of the power supplied. In this case, I purchased a 30amp switch. It should be marked on the side. Hella only supplied a 10amp switch with the 55w bulbs since the relay was actually carrying all the power, so that switch went into the wire collection in my garage..lol You want a switch that meets or exceeds the fuse rating in which you will be using. The rocker switch will have 3 prongs: 1 for Ground, 1 for Power(battery), and 1 for Switched power(to lights) These prongs are close together so I recommend using insulated connectors. You will need to run the ground wire from the switch as short as possible ehile still having enough room to work. The switch needs it's own ground as well as the lights.
I ran the ground wire as short as possible right to the frame with a self tapper for the lights.
The Power was ran into a separate fuse holder that holds my 30amp fuse holder in which I used a 20amp for the time being since I installed 100watt bulbs
and from there directly to the battery. Well, actually the fuse panel under the hood has a bolt conveniently located right up front, so a ring terminal should be used that is large enough to slide over the bolt.
The Switched power from the rocker switch goes directly to the hot lead on the lights. In this case the blue wire. If you are confused and have taken the lights apart and stripped all the wiring off, it will be the white wire from the bulb. I used all Black wire for a clean appearance because I didn't feel the need to run bulky wire loom. I ziptied the wires any place possible to avoid any wire chaffing to the insulation. I also soldered all of my connections and put a small dab of dielectric grease over the solder before I slid the heat shrink tubing and heated it up. I ran the switched power wire from the rocker switch all the way to the passenger side light which runs directly past the driver light and slid the heat shrink over the wire before I soldered. Then I simply stripped the insulation at the driver light and wrapped the driver light wire around the power wire and soldered it. This way there are no breaks in the wire and less connections that are available to any corrosion. I grounded the bulbs right to the frame of the truck with a self tapper. They were grounded individually from each other. You could even ground them to the mounting hardware since it would be mounted to metal, but I figured it would be a hassle for later alignment. Make the wires short as possible, but allow enough room for the light to pivot without pulling on the wire. I actually was able to tuck a few inches back into the housing to make the wire as short as possible and still have room for any adjustments later on. I even put dielctric grease over the grounded terminals and tried to work it up inside the back of the terminal. Dielectric grease is your best friend for future prevention of corrosion. I love the stuff. I apply it to any connections possible every spring.
As for mounting the lights. It was super easy for me. I have a 2008 Dodge Ram and there's a perfect spot behind the grill. It has the frame rail for the radiator support running right if front of everything. The Hella's are very shallow and it allows plenty of room for clearance. Many aren't sure how to evenly center the light to one another. If you forget everything else about the vehicle and focus in the center of the vehicle it will make things very easy. You can always go off of the hood latch and measure outwards respectively on each side if need be. However, I noticed that on the frame support there were plastic push screws that held wiring that protruded through the bottom side of the rail and it was perfectly spaced. I simply drilled my holes directly over the top of them.
It was a matter of minutes before my lights were bolted on. You should always use a smaller bit for a starter hole and then work your way up to a larger bit skipping a few sizes in between. I own a cordless drill and it is the perfect match for anything automotive related.
For alignment. I chose to align my driving lights to the height of my high beams. I used a flat ground and pulled facing a wall and backing up about 30ft. Luckily for me it was a brick wall which made life easier for precise adjustment. I chose high beam height because it's straight ahead and these lights are pencil beams. The further they travel the higher in the sky they will go, so you may need to do a little experimenting to see what's best for your likings. Guys with a 2" leveling kit on the front of their rams will need a few adjustments because if you match them against a wall to your high beams, these lights will be pointing up in the trees going down the road. Were not out bird watching, so make sure you adjust accordingly. My lights were initially too high even at their lowest possible setting because the housing was touching the frame bolt and not allowing the light swivel downwards enough for proper adjustment. I used my handy little Dremel and ground down the plastic housing just enough so the light could get where I wanted it.
Notice the angle after I ground out a small amount where the light was touching the mounting hardware.
At first I measured the distance of the light to be 25 or so inches apart and made that same measurement on the wall, but at night down the road it was a little too close together, so I made them 35" apart on the wall as best as I could see, these suckers are BRIGHT! The widening of the beams made a big diff. Again, this is something you need to experiment on. It was very hard to distinguish between the high beams and the Hella's as the Hella's simply drown out any other factory light source.
Good luck with the install. If you ever have any doubts about wiring or fuses always size up the wire(lower the gauge rating the thicker the wire) and always use the smallest fuse possible. This can be determined by the match equation given above.
Truck Parts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chadlee1261
ohh, you mean the factory 345hp is crank hp. well crap.
one thing to remember when off roading, no matter what type, make sure you have some sort of phone or way to get ahold of someone. it is helpfull to be able to call someone when your stuck, winch cable just broke, blew a tire off bead because you didnt think to bring a spare, or blew a pully, blew reverse out, could be a ton of unexpected thing we all run into when offroading, you need to call some one, make sure you have a phone, cb, or something someone can here you.
Another thing to keep in mind and i learned this one the hard way. bring extra cloths, jackets, and all sorts of stuff to keep you warm. at one time when i was a young enthusiest i would just find a mud hole, hit it and be done with it. then i got stuck a couple time, and learned, when ya get stuck, have no phone service, it sucks, and to make thing worse, it sucked even more because i was the on guy who didnt bring a jacket cause i didnt think i was going to get stuck.
one last note for everyone out there. remember when you are offroading, keep in mind that the mud and slop you are slingin, belongs to someone somewhere. make sure you have legal permission and tread lightly. keep the few spots we have open to the public, open.
Riding Tips
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1998 Dodge Ram Sport.... most 2500 drivetrain, 1ton brakes and steering... slightly modified!
For anyone who wants a tire that has some serious off-road capability but dont have really deep pockets for superswampers or other expensive alternatives, the Maxxis Bighorn is a great choice, I got it thinking that I would get it for the time being until I could get a better mud terrain again, but to be honest with you, I dont think I will ever buy another mud terrain beside the bighorn unless of course I go to a size they dont have, It has been even more capable than the highly expensive Toyo Mud terrains I previously had, and the avon/dean mud terrains also, but 100's of dollars cheaper, the only downside between the bighorn and the toyo is how hard it is and how long it lasts on pavement, it is truly a mud terrain, not like the mud terrains such as the toyos which are meant to last on the road also, if you really want to get around in the mud I highly recommend getting this tire, its lugs clean out very easily and keeps traction very well in the mud, I was completely stopped in a hole and thought I wouldnt be able to drive out, but the tire cleaned itself out so well that it caught traction and pulled me back out of the hole beyond all expectations.
On a scale of 1-10 I would rate the bighorn at a 9, it is an excellent tire and I would bet anyone who has used it would highly agree with me.
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'02 ram 1500 4X4 white sport 5.9,Pioneer HU, Boston 6.5 in front speakers, Diamond audio rear speakers, Rockford Fosgate 12" in a custom center console hide a box Alpine 400 watt sub amp phoenix gold 1000 watt speaker amp, K&N intake, projector hid's 6000k 6000k fogs. Hughes deep transmission pan, shift kit, 3.92 lsd's, full options package.
4:56 gear club member
