I have a Dodge dakota 2wd 3.9 v6 1994 Auto.

I was driving down the road the other day and the motor just completly shut off on me.
So i took my old battery in and it test 10.1 amps not 12 amps. So i got a new battery
put it in and it didnt start. So i checked the fuses under the hood. The ignition switch
was shot 40 amp green. It fired right up. But now for some reason my horn is dead . The
tach is stuck the abs light and brake light is on. And the big kicker i have no brake lights
or head lights. No radio.But all my other gauges work and signals/flashers. But sometimes i can start it and the tach will work. But when i pull the headlight switch or hit the brake pedal it will
automatically stop the tach gauge to where ever its at.

Pull the dash cluster and clean all of the conectors. That should fix the problem.

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'93 4x4 5.2 Ext Cab
2" Body lift with 32's

what would you clean cluster with???

squirt a little dap of dielectric grease into each of the terminals on both connectors. or just slap the top of your dash kinda hard and it'll work for the current trip you're on.

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1996 reg cab,2wd, 3.9L, 5 speed
Dual exhaust from the glasspack back with SS tips
High flow cat, 5.2L tb, open air holley air cleaner, k&n filter, electric fan, 3 panel hard folding tonneau cover all at 20.14 MPG as of 12-3-07! finally broke 20!

i took my dash apart today and took gauge out..where exactly should i clean terminals? the back the front gauges where i ubolt the gauge its self???

sounds like the fix is going to be more than cleaning the terminals, but that is what I would do first, always start small - I wouldn't be suprised if you had a Short somewhere

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'95 Dodge Dakota 4x4 5.2L club cab - 224kmi - Dual Exhaust, Filtercharger, Duals, sh--load of lights
'92 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9L club cab - 166kmi - V8 TB, '95 grand Cherokee Self-Dimming mirror - soon to have new exhaust

I would check all the fuses, again.
I remember in my aunts LeBaron, you had to turn on the headlights to make the tach work (opposite problem as you), but if adjusted the brightness for the cluster lights, it would effect what RPM the tach said.
I would definitly say there is a short somewhere.
I'm far away from my wiring diagrams, so I can't provide you with the least bit of help as that goes. Hope that you find out the problem.

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Current ride: Belleville 220 DES ST - leather, reinforced front end, tan color. Runs on 'alternative fuel'
1996 Dodge Dakota
1986 Honda Civic CRX

the computer controls voltage to all systems, try one off another 88-91 dak and see if that works

check under the hood. there is a block that dodge dakota's have had problems with ( check dakota wont start in the FAQ )starter systems, gauges, lights are not related, cleaning the gauge connections will not start the truck, you have a MAJOR power problem.figure out where the wires are close together, thats usually close to the battery ( that damn block ). the other place they come together is the ignition switch. a bad switch will send power everywere and short out the starter system. remember a starter works on 700 amps and the gauges work on milliamps. try a new battery first then work out from there.

He put a new battery in .
The computer does not control voltage to many lights. The headlights, brake lights, and gauge lights are all computer-free. The ABS/Brake light is controlled by the ABS module (if 2-wheel ABS, located inside the cab, passenger side, by the wheel well; if 4-wheel ABS, look in the engine compartment, passenger side fenderwall, not sure what year 4-wheel ABS came out though; but it wasn't a popular option, FYI)
The computer does control the voltage (actually, its frequency, I believe) to the tachometer, which is what changes the range. Like I said, I have no wiring diagrams, so I can't tell you why turning on headlights/pressing the brake pedalwould have any effect on anything.

Another thing to keep in mind, the ignition switch is not connected to the headlights, orbrake lights, in anyway. You can turn on the headlight switch, and press the brake pedal without the keys in the ignition and the lightswill work as advertised.

Fuses and shorts.

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Current ride: Belleville 220 DES ST - leather, reinforced front end, tan color. Runs on 'alternative fuel'
1996 Dodge Dakota
1986 Honda Civic CRX

the voltage regulator is in the computer. this controls output to ALL systems. if thecomputer voltage regulation is off, it screws everything, including batteries.remember the old fords with the regulator on the left front fender, the computer does this now. i have a 110 page wiring diagram for 87-96 daks, just can't upload it ( pdf file ). headlights, brakelights, etc. are not computer free. your probably right about the battery, i missed that, sorry.

you have rear wheel anti-lock. 89.5 and up it came standard. unless you have sensors on the front ( an option on 94 )it's only rear wheel anti-lock and the module is under the right passenger side dash, but this has nothing to do with the starter system, fixing the abs system is not going to start your truck. the tack is controlled by voltage not "frequency" i've installed enough to know. you picked out one problem of a bunch and gave advice ( the brake lights don't work heres how to fix them) stick to computers because trucks are not your thing

start from the battery and work out, look at the block that 92-96 daks have a problem with ( FAQ )

p.s. if the ignition switch is bad it can short or drain a battery, dakota's are known for this problem.

just tryin' to help.