Valve work *PICS*

Ghost Neon 2 · #1 07-04-2008, 06:45 PM

Just took a stab using my work tools. What do you think?

fsu182 · #2 07-04-2008, 07:06 PM

post-its probably not needed. lol. if u cant tell which ones which then you probably dont know what ur looking at. someone is looking at this right now going - who cares what it looks like, you stick golf tees in the ground anyway?

Ghost Neon 2 · #3 07-04-2008, 07:58 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: fsu182
someone is looking at this right now going - who cares what it looks like, you stick golf tees in the ground anyway?

And that is the difference between said individual and Tiger Woods

Reminds me of those removing "weight" from their car, when they should be adding more displacement.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · #4 07-05-2008, 05:01 PM

valves look good, even if the polishing doesnt make a noticeable diff in power, should help it keep its power longer due to less rough spots on the valve for carbon to build up on

just curious, why do you recommend gaining displacement over losing weight, and for what disciplines of racing? Not trying to start an argument, just curious.

I figured for a street car, that makes the most sense, because you couldnt realisticly lose enough weight to really help.

but in sanction'd racing, if thats all the cars going to be used for, it makes sense to build the motor as much as possible and lose as much weight as possible, especially for road racing and auto-x

i have my daily driver which im not worrying about weight in, and my full race car, which is a 96 neon that weighs 2040 pounds with a full tank of gas and isnt finished yet

Ghost Neon 2 · #5 07-05-2008, 11:29 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

valves look good, even if the polishing doesnt make a noticeable diff in power, should help it keep its power longer due to less rough spots on the valve for carbon to build up on

Thanks. Polishing is not the end. They will look like these when they are done:

Polishing is certainly beneficial to the exhaust valves to prevent detonation, but the intake valves get the grooves. Read why. http://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/valve-prepping.html

Quote:

ORIGINAL: TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL curious, why do you recommend gaining displacement over losing weight, and for what disciplines of racing?Â* Not trying to start an argument, just curious.

I figured for a street car, that makes the most sense, because you couldnt realisticly lose enough weight to really help.

but in sanction'd racing, if thats all the cars going to be used for, it makes sense to build the motor as much as possible and lose as much weight as possible, especially for road racing and auto-x

i have my daily driver which im not worrying about weight in, and my full race car, which is a 96 neon that weighs 2040 pounds with a full tank of gas and isnt finished yet

Nothing wrong with a friendly discussion. Just my opinion. Reducing the interior does not increase horsepower. This comment is mostly geared towards those sohc guys claiming to not have money for dohc parts. Yet they cannot afford a magnum head either, which is far more costly than a dohc swap.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · #6 07-05-2008, 11:43 PM

ya, i was actually reading that, I actually kinda wanted to see someone else test it first before i try it since i didnt have any extra heads laying around, makes sense tho

ya, thats true, dohc swap is much cheaper if you research it

and thats true, for the guys that are just wanting a faster daily driver, it just doesnt make sense to make the car a tin can

for all out racing, if you have another car to commute with, the weight reduction will help, because the hp you have wont have to move as much weight, and take 2 cars, one weighing 2000 pounds, one weighing 2400, and the 2000 pound car is going to handle better if they both have the same ride height and springs chosen for the carsweight

its just not practical for a daily driver, take it from me, i started with removing weight from my full out race car, and then my daily drivers tranny went out till next weekend, so im driving around a 2000 pound tin can sounding neon, it may do mid 14's with only a header, exhaust, udp, and 3.0 intake and larger tb, but it sucks to drive for my 110 mile round trip commute

Ghost Neon 2 · #7 07-05-2008, 11:52 PM

Quote:

ORIGINAL: TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL

ya, i was actually reading that, I actually kinda wanted to see someone else test it first before i try it since i didnt have any extra heads laying around, makes sense tho

ya, thats true, dohc swap is much cheaper if you research it

and thats true, for the guys that are just wanting a faster daily driver, it just doesnt make sense to make the car a tin can

for all out racing, if you have another car to commute with, the weight reduction will help, because the hp you have wont have to move as much weight, and take 2 cars, one weighing 2000 pounds, one weighing 2400, and the 2000 pound car is going to handle better if they both have the same ride height and springs chosen for the carsÂ*weight

its just not practical for a daily driver, take it from me, i started with removing weight from my full out race car, and then my daily drivers tranny went out till next weekend, so im driving around a 2000 pound tin can sounding neon, it may do mid 14's with only a header, exhaust, udp, and 3.0 intake and larger tb, but it sucks to drive for my 110 mile round trip commute

That seems more a matter of opinion. I have never removed parts (save the jack and spare at the track) to make my car lighter. Still handles quite well. Good springs, urethane bushings, and larger sways play their part quite well. My sedan and coupe corner with ease.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · #8 07-06-2008, 12:35 AM

very true, im not saying a stock weight car cant handle, those are actually my plans for my daily driver/gf's autocross toy - coilovers, urethane bushings, larger sways, dodge shadow sport steering rack, 205-50-15 hoosiers in autocross form

however, my full race car is being built for SCCA E modified, which has a 1700 pound weight limit

no way can i compete with a completly gutted miata with a stock weight neon with even the best suspension set up

for my race car im looking at - 2000 pounds caged, double adjustable coilovers, corner weights set, spherical bearings replacing all bushings, larger sways with custom adjustable endlinks with spherical bearing joints, 275-35-15 hoosiers with fender mods to clear the tires, and the shadow sport steering rack

more then likely i still wont beat the other high budget cars (ie corvettes, porches, and such), but i like neons and want to see just how fast one can be made to go

Ghost Neon 2 · #9 07-06-2008, 06:57 AM

SCCA and 1/4 mile have their differences. On the street is another story. If you recall Len left his turbo neon interior (and most of the engine) stock well into low 10's. All in how you wanna do it.

And that article is several years old. Mike has made several heads for members on TD.com, including me, that worked as expected. I'll make a post over there to drum up some feedback.

TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL · #10 07-06-2008, 02:19 PM

ya, thats what i was curious about, whether that was for street/strip, or cars that handle

no matter what i'll have to strip the race car, its getting seam welded, and on top of that no way ill outhandle a 1700 pound rotary powered miata in a 2400 neon no matter what suspension i use, 2000 pounds ill be closer, but im aiming for autocross/time trials

although id like to build a drag neon someday to take down my dads 11 flat vega

let me know how it works, im interested if it helps fuel economy like he wrote in the article