Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
#11
12-05-2006, 05:19 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
ok, but silvercoupe, what kind of hp gains would I get from a performance rebuild(if any) from exile racing(my 2.5L)? and wouldnt the 3.0L actually be a better choice since there are so many aftermarket parts for it? pulleys, a Ripp Supercharger, ect. i mean the 2.5L has almost nothing goin for it
#12
12-05-2006, 06:02 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
Here's the deal with the 3.0L swap. You are only using parts of the 3.0 motor, not the entire thing. Those things you mentioned for the 3.0L is made with the bigger amount of room in mind. We end up retaining the 2.5L plenum, not the 3.0's. You can still use the RIPP charger, but it will need to be modified to fit our engine bay...2.5 or 3.0. In the end, you may have a 3.0 mutt motor, but it's not a complete 3.0 and you definitely don't have the room like the Stratus/Eclipse has with their 3.0L. Look at an Eclipse/Stratus when you get a chance, with the Avenger next to it and notice how much longer the Eclipse/Stratus engine bay is and you'll see what I mean.
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12-05-2006, 06:11 AM
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12-05-2006, 07:14 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
3.0l 6G72 ENGINE PARTS THAT NEED TO BE REMOVED
• Pull the drain plug from the oil pan (you don’t want to have to pull off a full pan if they forgot to drain it before shipping)
• Upper Intake Manifold
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Lower intake manifold
• Rear plenum brackets
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Front AC Bracket (black painted cast iron)
• Crankshaft pulley
• Timing cover
• You may need to take the front cam gear off to get at the back steel timing cover. This also makes installing the 2.5 cover easier as well. You have to redo the timing anyways, so take it off and save the curse words for something else. This generally means you’ll need an air wrench, so if you don’t get creative and leave the gear on. Unless you have a way of locking the gear from spinning without marring them up (OEM tool, it just isn’t worth it)
• Timing idler and bracket
• Crank position sensor (right by the lower timing gear, held in with 2 10mm bolts)
• Alternator bracket (if they sent it with it)
• Power Steering Bracket (again if they sent it)
• Exhaust manifolds
• Oil filter neck (3 bolts, 12mm – holds oil filter and temp sensor)
• Oil pan (this is a pain. You need the gasket scraper or putty knife and have to pry it off by wedging it in and goig along the pan on both sides until you feel it pulling apart)
• Oil pickup tube
• Coolant thermostat housing (crossover)
• Distributor
• Wrap up the cord for the knock sensor between the heads and tuck in away or remove the sensor completely.
2.5L 6G73 PARTS THAT NEED TO BE MODIFIED TO FIT THE 3.0L 6G72
• Timing covers – Here you’ll have to modify the lower cover at the lower section at the front of the block. Just trim off enough until it sits flush on the 3.0L engine, then set it aside until you get the timing done (Picture to come)
• Lower Alternator Bracket – Now In order to install this, you’ll notice the 6G72 oil pump has a mounting boss right where it needs to go on the back part of the motor. Two options here, hack it off the pump completely with a saw, or grind it until the alternator bracket fits. If you hack it, just cut the cylinder threaded portion off. No need to go any further in as the bracket clears with it gone. (Picture to come)
• Front bracket for the engine to trans (the one behind the starter) This you’ll see the upper 2 mounting holes for the engine, then a raised lip around the edge. You’ll need to take this edge off all the way around the top and about mid way to the bend. (Picture to come)
2.5L PARTS THAT NEED TO BE TRANSFERRED OVER TO THE 3.0L 6G72
• Lower intake manifold
• Rear plenum brackets
• Upper Alternator Bracket
• Front cam gear to remove the steel timing cover
• Timing idler and spacer behind it
• Timing belt, and set the timing with new tensioner and tool. (TRIPLE CHECK TIMING)
• Timing covers from 2.5
• Oil Pickup tube from 2.5
• Oil Pan from 2.5
• Oil filter neck from 2.5, Install on 3.0 using either oem gasket or custom cut. DO NOT USE RTV. THIS IS AN AREA OF HIGH PRESSURE AND RTV WILL NOT HOLD
• Front and rear exhaust manifolds and gaskets from 2.5
• Oil Dipstick tube from 2.5
• Thermostat housing from 2.5
• Distributor from 2.5
• Plugs and wires
• Passenger side motor mount from 2.5
• AC Compressor bracket from 2.5
• Driveplate and spacer from 2.5
• Pull the drain plug from the oil pan (you don’t want to have to pull off a full pan if they forgot to drain it before shipping)
• Upper Intake Manifold
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Lower intake manifold
• Rear plenum brackets
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Front AC Bracket (black painted cast iron)
• Crankshaft pulley
• Timing cover
• You may need to take the front cam gear off to get at the back steel timing cover. This also makes installing the 2.5 cover easier as well. You have to redo the timing anyways, so take it off and save the curse words for something else. This generally means you’ll need an air wrench, so if you don’t get creative and leave the gear on. Unless you have a way of locking the gear from spinning without marring them up (OEM tool, it just isn’t worth it)
• Timing idler and bracket
• Crank position sensor (right by the lower timing gear, held in with 2 10mm bolts)
• Alternator bracket (if they sent it with it)
• Power Steering Bracket (again if they sent it)
• Exhaust manifolds
• Oil filter neck (3 bolts, 12mm – holds oil filter and temp sensor)
• Oil pan (this is a pain. You need the gasket scraper or putty knife and have to pry it off by wedging it in and goig along the pan on both sides until you feel it pulling apart)
• Oil pickup tube
• Coolant thermostat housing (crossover)
• Distributor
• Wrap up the cord for the knock sensor between the heads and tuck in away or remove the sensor completely.
2.5L 6G73 PARTS THAT NEED TO BE MODIFIED TO FIT THE 3.0L 6G72
• Timing covers – Here you’ll have to modify the lower cover at the lower section at the front of the block. Just trim off enough until it sits flush on the 3.0L engine, then set it aside until you get the timing done (Picture to come)
• Lower Alternator Bracket – Now In order to install this, you’ll notice the 6G72 oil pump has a mounting boss right where it needs to go on the back part of the motor. Two options here, hack it off the pump completely with a saw, or grind it until the alternator bracket fits. If you hack it, just cut the cylinder threaded portion off. No need to go any further in as the bracket clears with it gone. (Picture to come)
• Front bracket for the engine to trans (the one behind the starter) This you’ll see the upper 2 mounting holes for the engine, then a raised lip around the edge. You’ll need to take this edge off all the way around the top and about mid way to the bend. (Picture to come)
2.5L PARTS THAT NEED TO BE TRANSFERRED OVER TO THE 3.0L 6G72
• Lower intake manifold
• Rear plenum brackets
• Upper Alternator Bracket
• Front cam gear to remove the steel timing cover
• Timing idler and spacer behind it
• Timing belt, and set the timing with new tensioner and tool. (TRIPLE CHECK TIMING)
• Timing covers from 2.5
• Oil Pickup tube from 2.5
• Oil Pan from 2.5
• Oil filter neck from 2.5, Install on 3.0 using either oem gasket or custom cut. DO NOT USE RTV. THIS IS AN AREA OF HIGH PRESSURE AND RTV WILL NOT HOLD
• Front and rear exhaust manifolds and gaskets from 2.5
• Oil Dipstick tube from 2.5
• Thermostat housing from 2.5
• Distributor from 2.5
• Plugs and wires
• Passenger side motor mount from 2.5
• AC Compressor bracket from 2.5
• Driveplate and spacer from 2.5
https://dodgeforum.com/m_559206/tm.htm
#15
12-05-2006, 09:09 PM
#16
12-06-2006, 05:11 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
one more question silvercoupe, ive seen stuff bout a 3.5L swap on exiles site. Do you kno much bout that? id especially like to kno how much horsepower and torque it puts out and also how it compares to the 3.0L..
thanx
-Jacob
thanx
-Jacob
#17
12-06-2006, 05:29 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
The 3.5L swap is still new to me since it's still a new swap. I haven't heard much about it to be honest with you. Exile hasn't shared any of the info on it yet, so.....
I would imagine the power curve from a 3.8 is much greater and has a more noticable difference, but that's just speculation on my end.
I would imagine the power curve from a 3.8 is much greater and has a more noticable difference, but that's just speculation on my end.
#18
12-06-2006, 05:39 AM
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RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
well i read on wikipedia that the mitsu 3.5L puts out 205 HP and and sumthin like 230lbs of torque(assuming its even a mitsu theyre tlkin bout at exile). but still id like to find out which would be better, the 3 or the 3.5
#19
12-06-2006, 11:09 AM
RE: Performance Rebuilt 2.5L VERSUS Performance Rebuilt 3.0L (6G72)
The Mitsu 3.0L from the Eclipse/Stratus coupe puts down 200hp & 200ftlbs of torque stock. The supercharger and turbocharger kits are highly overpriced, and more to the point, there's hardly room for them in the Stratus coupe....
Honestly, your best bet is to go with the 2.5L. Not only do you retain more of your original hardware, but you also dont have to fab up anything....
Honestly, your best bet is to go with the 2.5L. Not only do you retain more of your original hardware, but you also dont have to fab up anything....
#20
12-07-2006, 03:33 AM
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