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At Wit's End With '91

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  #41  
Old 03-09-2019, 05:11 PM
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Well, if it overpressures, due to the size of the injectors on the TBI units, it can't lift over about 15.5PSI off the spec 14.5PSI.

Are you talking about the inlet, or the bypass, hose on the regulator?

RwP
 
  #42  
Old 03-09-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Well, if it overpressures, due to the size of the injectors on the TBI units, it can't lift over about 15.5PSI off the spec 14.5PSI.

Are you talking about the inlet, or the bypass, hose on the regulator?

RwP
If i remember, there was only one hose to that thing, but don't quote me on that.
 
  #43  
Old 03-09-2019, 08:59 PM
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No, there's two on the TBI units; feed up to the regulator, and bypass return from the regulator.

Doesn't matter, there's a problem if EITHER is dry. *grins*

It gets its vacuum from the throttle body itself, since that's where it's mounted.

RwP
 
  #44  
Old 03-09-2019, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
No, there's two on the TBI units; feed up to the regulator, and bypass return from the regulator.

Doesn't matter, there's a problem if EITHER is dry. *grins*

It gets its vacuum from the throttle body itself, since that's where it's mounted.

RwP
what autozone says fits mine. i'm sure i've seen these elsewhere for 20bucks or less

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...80057_594834_0
 
  #45  
Old 03-10-2019, 04:39 PM
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Heh.

At the regulator itself - the ins and outs are inside the throttle body.

That - is the vacuum line, and SHOULD be dry.

You have to check at the inlet and outlet from the throttle body; but both are just piped into the regulator.

RwP
 
  #46  
Old 03-10-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
Heh.

At the regulator itself - the ins and outs are inside the throttle body.

That - is the vacuum line, and SHOULD be dry.

You have to check at the inlet and outlet from the throttle body; but both are just piped into the regulator.

RwP
Thanks; i'll pass that on to my mech buddy, whenever he'll get here; he sure don't get in a hurry for me.
 
  #47  
Old 04-03-2019, 01:05 PM
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Hey guys; after all this time being in a crank/no start state, today it fires right up. once it started, it sounded rough and louder than normal and then it stalled out right away and put me right back in to the crank/no start. Still can't get my mechanic over here.
He installed a new distributor and ya think this whole mess has to do with that? maybe we bought an inexact part or maybe it timings off(he never put a timing light on it) whatcha think? Thanks!
p.s.; there were times After the distributor job where the truck was running and running great.
 

Last edited by KevinSandidge; 04-03-2019 at 01:58 PM.
  #48  
Old 04-03-2019, 01:21 PM
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If he never put a timing light on it - it's off.

Timing has to be set engine warm with the ECT sensor unplugged (that kills all advance) to 10* BTDC; up to 16* BTDC; but at 16, I'll about guarantee you'll need premium 95 octane or better to keep it from pinging too bad.

RwP
 
  #49  
Old 04-03-2019, 02:16 PM
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Just texted him what you said. i'm tempted to have it towed to a real shop. thanks Ralph
 
  #50  
Old 04-08-2019, 06:11 PM
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Well my buddy showed up to help me out. We couldn't find the problem so i said let's go ahead and spend $215 on a new ecm(MasterPro Part #ECC3593).
After taking the case apart on mine we find an old dried up rat's nest in there and a live roach ran out as well. The silicon coating over the circuitry had cracks all in it and part of the rat's nest was all in the heat sink. Hopefully this will solve everything. Will let y'all know wednesday
Wish me luck
 


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