1994 dakota waterpump
#1
07-02-2019, 10:13 PM
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1994 dakota waterpump
I have a 94 Dakota 4x4 w/3.9, my water pump was leaking and aftertaking the old one off i realised that the previous owner had broken a bolt off. This is my first experience with a Dodge truck as an owner and i habe to say, the waterpump bolted to the timing chain cover is a new one on me. After tearing it down to the timing chain cover the broken bolt was very easy to remove. The truck has 279,000 miles on it so i figure i betger go ahead and change the chain amd gears while im this deap. Ive read several articles on removing the balancer bolt but nothing on the size of this bolt, this is also my first timing chain set replavement so i have questions: first since im in this far can i still "bump the engine over to reach TDC with the belt already off? And any and all suggestions wuold be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
#2
07-02-2019, 11:31 PM
Champion
I have a 94 Dakota 4x4 w/3.9, my water pump was leaking and aftertaking the old one off i realised that the previous owner had broken a bolt off. This is my first experience with a Dodge truck as an owner and i habe to say, the waterpump bolted to the timing chain cover is a new one on me. After tearing it down to the timing chain cover the broken bolt was very easy to remove. The truck has 279,000 miles on it so i figure i betger go ahead and change the chain amd gears while im this deap. Ive read several articles on removing the balancer bolt but nothing on the size of this bolt, this is also my first timing chain set replavement so i have questions: first since im in this far can i still "bump the engine over to reach TDC with the belt already off? And any and all suggestions wuold be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
"with the belt already off"? What belt? The 3.9 uses a chain and a pair of sprockets.
If they're off, welcome. You've managed to screw yourself well unless you get the set back on the exact same way to turn it over.
I'll recommend that you use thread sealer; I don't think the Magnum was, but my LA 3.9 had a few bolts all the way through to the water jacket so if you don't put sealer on them, it leaks.
RwP
#3
07-05-2019, 06:05 AM
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was refering to the serpentine belt, i havent done anything yet. Havrnt removed the harmonic balancer. Going to get a gear puller friday. Do you know what size bolt holds the balancer? Ive heard 32mm and also someone said it was 27mm or 28mm? Im definitely going to bump it to T.D.C. thanks for your help, and please keep respomding, im sure im gonna have more questions. Oh what do you recomend to use as thread sealer, and since im not sure which bolts go into the water jackets will it hurt to put thread sealer on all the bolts
Last edited by SamRan; 07-05-2019 at 06:11 AM. Reason: Left out a question
#5
07-05-2019, 08:26 AM
Champion
Won't hurt to use thread sealer on all the bolts, no.
I used a tube of Permatex Thread Sealer I bought at O'Reilly's since they're about 1/2 mile from my house ... here it is at Advance: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...631/16160028-p
I don't remember offhand, but it was on my Harber Freight impact socket set, so ...
One hint I've read is to either start with an impact wrench to remove the bolt, or to use a long breaker bar and if necessary bump it with the starter to break it free.
Keep track of which bolt goes where; it may be too late now, but one trick is to take some cardboard, draw the water pump out on it (and the timing chain cover!), punch small holes where the bolts go, and slip the bolt through the hole that matches where the bolt came out.
You'll need some RTV because the oil pan gasket will be damaged when you take the timing chain cover off; there's a piece to replace the front in the gasket set, but you'll need to RTV the seam where the block, timing chain cover, and oil pan intersect.
I'd carefully examine that harmonic balancer too; with age, they may be coming apart.
Do an oil change while doing this in case something drops down into the crankcase.
Be sure to line the dots up BEFORE you take the old gear and sprockets off.
I also used the tensioner mentioned in the TSBs on my truck, both when I did the timing chain and a new one when I had the motor rebuilt. I used the Cloyes one; Mellings also sells one IIRC. I got mine from RockAuto.
When you refill, use distilled water and antifreeze. I'd start with distilled water until I proof out the seals (to make sure it doesn't leak); WalMart sells the gallons for like 88 cents locally, so I'd figure $1/gallon.
After you verify it doesn't leak under pressure, drain the radiator again, and start with a gallon of antifreeze then a gallon of water then 50/50. This SHOULD keep you over 33/67 (33% antifreeze), which will do the job for most of the country. (If you live where it's got days that stay under 0 F, measure how much you drain out and use that to figure out how much antifreeze to use to keep it as close to 50/50 as possible.)
Don't forget that bypass hose! That's bitten many a person on these motors when it cracks and fails.
RwP
I used a tube of Permatex Thread Sealer I bought at O'Reilly's since they're about 1/2 mile from my house ... here it is at Advance: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...631/16160028-p
I don't remember offhand, but it was on my Harber Freight impact socket set, so ...
One hint I've read is to either start with an impact wrench to remove the bolt, or to use a long breaker bar and if necessary bump it with the starter to break it free.
Keep track of which bolt goes where; it may be too late now, but one trick is to take some cardboard, draw the water pump out on it (and the timing chain cover!), punch small holes where the bolts go, and slip the bolt through the hole that matches where the bolt came out.
You'll need some RTV because the oil pan gasket will be damaged when you take the timing chain cover off; there's a piece to replace the front in the gasket set, but you'll need to RTV the seam where the block, timing chain cover, and oil pan intersect.
I'd carefully examine that harmonic balancer too; with age, they may be coming apart.
Do an oil change while doing this in case something drops down into the crankcase.
Be sure to line the dots up BEFORE you take the old gear and sprockets off.
I also used the tensioner mentioned in the TSBs on my truck, both when I did the timing chain and a new one when I had the motor rebuilt. I used the Cloyes one; Mellings also sells one IIRC. I got mine from RockAuto.
When you refill, use distilled water and antifreeze. I'd start with distilled water until I proof out the seals (to make sure it doesn't leak); WalMart sells the gallons for like 88 cents locally, so I'd figure $1/gallon.
After you verify it doesn't leak under pressure, drain the radiator again, and start with a gallon of antifreeze then a gallon of water then 50/50. This SHOULD keep you over 33/67 (33% antifreeze), which will do the job for most of the country. (If you live where it's got days that stay under 0 F, measure how much you drain out and use that to figure out how much antifreeze to use to keep it as close to 50/50 as possible.)
Don't forget that bypass hose! That's bitten many a person on these motors when it cracks and fails.
RwP
