I just picked up a 91 Dakota 4x4 with a 318. Wouldn't start when I picked it...jumped the starter contacts with a screwdriver to get it home.
Assumed the starter was toast ( never assume ) and changed it ( that was an interesting feat in contortionism ). Connections to starter are clean.
Still nothing when I turn the key...yes the battery is good. Swapped relays around in the distribution box ( all the same)...still nothing...not the relay.
Checked the battery pins in the distribution box and only getting 2 volts to the relay where there should be full battery voltage. Am I correct in assuming this? ( yea, I know, never assume )
I read in the intro that connections to the distribution box are a common problem. Is the problem area in the wire loom to the box or is it in the box itself. It would be nice to know before I start opening up the box or cutting the loom open if someone else has had this problem before.
BTW, checked the neutral safety switch at the tranny and have continuity in park and neutral so its not the switch.
Sorry for the long winded question, but I thought that I'd put everything that I've already checked. Facts and data.

 

Ya sounds like the relay system. Yes there should be full voltage during cranking. Are you sure you are testing the correct wires? There is a wire diagram in the FAQ. Check the autozone page that is listed that may get you the best for you year.

 

Yea. I'm sure. With the key off, there's only one "hot" pin ( the one closest to you when standing at the fender ). When checking continuity between the pins ( 4 of them ) going from the hot to the one directly across ( solenoid pin ) its good...grounds through the starter. The pin to the left is the ground pin and its good ( from the hot pin ), therefore that leaves the pin to the right which would be the ignition pin.( no continuity )
I kinda figured my problem is in the relay circut ( not getting full battery voltage at the relay), I was lookin for some feedback on whether the problem could be in the bottom of the distribution box or in the wire loom leading to the box...don't know if Dodge hid a connector in the loom. Like I said, the battery is good with a full cook ( 13.4 volts ) and all battery connections are clean and good.
Did I mention how much I hate electrical gremlins???? I'll take a motor, tranny, rearend on any day...but I hate buggering around with electrical issues.

Later: Jake

 

Found mung ( corrosion ) in the 2 pin plug going to the solenoid ( two wires...one from the solenoid contact in the relay, the other goes to the battery)
Getting 10.2 volts at battery pin on relay...still not enough to engage solenoid. Note: battery voltage does not come directly from the battery, the wire goes back through the firewall mixed in the loom with a whole herd of other wires...not really into tearing that mess apart right now...did I mention that its 30 below Celsius here right now with a wind chill of minus 42 Celsius...yea, I'm from the great white north.
I have a momentary switch ( like the kill button you find on a small outboard motor) that I use for setting the valves on my car. I hooked it up between the solenoid pin on the relay and the battery and run it through the firewall. Now, just turn the key on and push the button ( which is sitting on the dash ) and I have fire in the hole.
I'll sort out the battery feed to the relay when the weather becomes a little more civilized.
BTW, the wiring schematic in the FAQ section is invaluable...thanks a million for posting it.

Latter: Jake