I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L with mannual transmission and 233K miles. I'm starting to have some trouble with it when it gets cold outside. I bought this truck new and never had any troubles with it till this winter.

My truck doesn't want to idle when its cold and dies. It runs great above 1,000 rpms and no problems on the highway when its cold. The truck just wants to dead when I push the clutch in to make a stop. It starts right up if I'm rolling and I pop the clutch. I know there is some kind of idle sensors, that is suppose to kick in when its cold. I think under normal conditions it would kick the RPMS up to 800 if it fall below 600. Somethings it seems to work and sometimes it doesn't.

I just replaced the plugs and that didn't seem to help.

I turned the car switch on three times and came up with error code 55?

Any advise would be appreciated?

 

55 is end of code readout, your right on track with the idle sensor, that's exactly what i was thinking, or MAP sensor, believe both are on or around the Throttle Body

 

If its just an Idle problem, your most likly problem is the Idle Air Control valve. (IAC)
This is a commen problem with magnum engines. These tend to get stuck and seze up. You can take it off clean it up and make sure if moves freely, or just replace it.
For a location check the FAQ in this section.

 

I've got the exact same problem - IAC wasn't it - I cleaned it and checked it anyhow but the problem is still there. 10 minutes of drive time and it clears up.

I was thinking the EGR was sticking open from shutdown cause I noticed the exhaust sounds like crap while it's doing this.

Running searches on this site led me to the IAC - it was good, cleaned it anyhow.
Checked wires at night, small sparks - replaced em.
Plugs, Champions - have less than 10k on them - visual insp - good
Double checked batt/ charged it anyhow.

Another thing, is the 3.9 Dak the slowest heating up vehicle out there or just mine? The wife's Durango throws heat by the end of my street! My Dak is 8 miles into a trip before it starts getting warm!

 

Thanks guys for helping out the newbie. It was a dirty Idle Air Control valve. I took it off and cleaned it up and problem solved.

Now I just got figure out my heating problem... Dirtball is right on: "Another thing, is the 3.9 Dak the slowest heating up vehicle out there or just mine?"

I've took mine to Firestone three times and they says everything is normal. There is no way I could every drive this truck in a ice storm.

This truck never gets hot inside...luke warm at best.

Thanks Again it really help since I'm unemployed!!!!!!!!

 

For the heating problem it may be that the heater core is cloged, or partialy colged. You can remove the hoses and use flush it out with a hose. Do it in revese flow.

Also you may be able to go to a higher thermostat, depending what you have in it. You may as well just replace it. They are cheep and easy to change out.

 

Nope - not a matter of a clogged heater core, the temp gauge and even radiator hoses don't get hot.

New 195 thermostat and everything.

After a 20 minute drive, I can pop the hood and remove the rad cap without boiling over or burning myself.

 

Ok I thought I had the problem fixed once I cleaned the IAC valve, but I was wrong. I just drove the truck and it must have dead 10 times. The first couple times I drove it die maybe once. Its still 80% better than before, but still not running correctly. Sometimes when I push the clutch in it falls to 200 RPM's then it kicks it up to 800, other times the motor just catchs at 600 RPM's then kicks it up to 800 or it just dies.

I'm assume it time to just replace the IAC valve?

 

it is sounding like the iac valve is going bad, mine would do the same thing. if the truck is working properly it should not really boil the water and blow it out at you at operating temp, water boils at 212 degrees. i flushed my heater core once an it did not really help, but then i did a really good reverse flow flush on it and alot of poo came out. it has to be high pressure too. but these engines do take a while to warm up i have to admit, but once they are warm it should pour some heat out!

 

Well I ohm'd the injectors as I've been told they won't throw a code unless it's the first or last in the series. all measured 13.7-14

The cool thing, now that I re-plugged them back in the truck runs great! I didn't see any corrosion on the connectors but mebbe they just needed a jiggle or something.

Still takes 10+ minutes to throw heat (warm air comes out after about 5 min)