My Truck....
#11
10-18-2012, 08:18 PM
Hey Dakotaboy87, When you say "it shakes a little when turning off" I guess your referring to the engine? Is the engine idling smooth? If it is, what I would look at first is #1. Is the idle set to high? as this could cause that symptom because it takes longer for the crank (engine rotation) to stop...#2. I would check your motor mounts, week motor mounts will cause excessive engine movement while rotating to a stop when killed......Now if the engine is idling rough...then that could also cause the engine shaking while rotating to a stop after turning off, which could be related to that TPS sensor being bad possibly....
Now on the brakes...Someone else might chime in here with other ideas. But If I remember right, if you had air in the lines after bleeding them, they would be spongy and gradually bleed to the floor while pressing on the brake, causing you to have to pump them repeatedly while braking...... I do know all braking systems are set up with 2 separate systems, just in case one or the other of them fail, you still have the other (front or back) to be able to stop the truck.( so you bleeding the rear system should not have effected the front system in any way) I also know that the front brake system applies more stopping power to the front than the rear ( maybe like 65% to front & 45% to the rear. just as an example)
so Im not sure what would cause the brakes to feel hard at the peddle...could just be normal (correct) now, and you had a little air in the rear system before! and you were just used to it being like that, so now that you got all the air out of the system, its correct (hard) now??
Someone else here might have another idea on that though?? and chime in here??
Now on the brakes...Someone else might chime in here with other ideas. But If I remember right, if you had air in the lines after bleeding them, they would be spongy and gradually bleed to the floor while pressing on the brake, causing you to have to pump them repeatedly while braking...... I do know all braking systems are set up with 2 separate systems, just in case one or the other of them fail, you still have the other (front or back) to be able to stop the truck.( so you bleeding the rear system should not have effected the front system in any way) I also know that the front brake system applies more stopping power to the front than the rear ( maybe like 65% to front & 45% to the rear. just as an example)
so Im not sure what would cause the brakes to feel hard at the peddle...could just be normal (correct) now, and you had a little air in the rear system before! and you were just used to it being like that, so now that you got all the air out of the system, its correct (hard) now??
Someone else here might have another idea on that though?? and chime in here??
It does have an erratic idle, I try to get it to lower but it wants to die. It starts decent when cold but after running awhile you have to pump the gas. Could this need a carb rebuild? or maybe a vacuum leak? But good news, Got the brakes fixed, Turned out a little grommet on the booster was craked. I rigged it to see if it was the culprit and it was. So Ive got thatt fixed and also replaced the tranny filter and fluid today aslo. Going to put in some new bulbd and replace the other headlight tomorrow.
#12
10-18-2012, 10:20 PM
#13
10-18-2012, 11:58 PM
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Sweet deal man! And Good job on finding that crack in the power booster grommet. ( I didnt even think about that) But 9 times out of 10 it will end up being something simple like that.
If shes running pretty smooth now and hasn't sat around for a long time not running, the carb should be fine...I put a rebuilt 2bbl carb on the 78 D150 and it didnt even need it!! Ended up being a intake vacuum leak..but I rebuilt the 2nd carb and srink-wrapped it up and stored it away and now I have a back-up carb for just encase....even though I will probably end up just giving it to a buddie of mine....Anyway, good job and talk at-cha latter...
If shes running pretty smooth now and hasn't sat around for a long time not running, the carb should be fine...I put a rebuilt 2bbl carb on the 78 D150 and it didnt even need it!! Ended up being a intake vacuum leak..but I rebuilt the 2nd carb and srink-wrapped it up and stored it away and now I have a back-up carb for just encase....even though I will probably end up just giving it to a buddie of mine....Anyway, good job and talk at-cha latter...
#14
10-20-2012, 10:47 AM
Sweet deal man! And Good job on finding that crack in the power booster grommet. ( I didnt even think about that) But 9 times out of 10 it will end up being something simple like that. If shes running pretty smooth now and hasn't sat around for a long time not running, the carb should be fine...I put a rebuilt 2bbl carb on the 78 D150 and it didnt even need it!! Ended up being a intake vacuum leak..but I rebuilt the 2nd carb and srink-wrapped it up and stored it away and now I have a back-up carb for just encase....even though I will probably end up just giving it to a buddie of mine....Anyway, good job and talk at-cha latter...
If shes running pretty smooth now and hasn't sat around for a long time not running, the carb should be fine...I put a rebuilt 2bbl carb on the 78 D150 and it didnt even need it!! Ended up being a intake vacuum leak..but I rebuilt the 2nd carb and srink-wrapped it up and stored it away and now I have a back-up carb for just encase....even though I will probably end up just giving it to a buddie of mine....Anyway, good job and talk at-cha latter...
#15
10-20-2012, 05:46 PM
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Check all your vacuum lines, don't assume they are bad or good. Vac lines are cheap and easy to replace, almost as easy as breaking them by accident. I tried the wd40 trick and it did not work, would not tell me where the leak was. Had to go through every vac line and harness to find the issue.
It sounds like a big task but goes quickly. If a line or connection looks suspicious then replace it. When replacing the lines connect them using a very small amount of blue loctite as this will seal the connection for sure.
It sounds like you are going through the same issue I had when working on an 80's Cheby van with a 350. The guy I was working for wanted it to run but hated spending money. I did what I could because he would not take it to a mechanic to be fixed properly. Turned out to be a cracked quadraflush housing. I am not a mechanic and I know where my limitations are on working on vehicles, I know enough to do basic repair work, that is almost enough to get me into trouble.
Take your time and do it right, it is much cheaper that way. And since the brakes are an, at least somewhat
, important part of the vehicle, you might be better served to take it to a shop if you get stumped.
It sounds like a big task but goes quickly. If a line or connection looks suspicious then replace it. When replacing the lines connect them using a very small amount of blue loctite as this will seal the connection for sure.
It sounds like you are going through the same issue I had when working on an 80's Cheby van with a 350. The guy I was working for wanted it to run but hated spending money. I did what I could because he would not take it to a mechanic to be fixed properly. Turned out to be a cracked quadraflush housing. I am not a mechanic and I know where my limitations are on working on vehicles, I know enough to do basic repair work, that is almost enough to get me into trouble.
Take your time and do it right, it is much cheaper that way. And since the brakes are an, at least somewhat
, important part of the vehicle, you might be better served to take it to a shop if you get stumped.
#16
10-20-2012, 07:52 PM
Check all your vacuum lines, don't assume they are bad or good. Vac lines are cheap and easy to replace, almost as easy as breaking them by accident. I tried the wd40 trick and it did not work, would not tell me where the leak was. Had to go through every vac line and harness to find the issue.
It sounds like a big task but goes quickly. If a line or connection looks suspicious then replace it. When replacing the lines connect them using a very small amount of blue loctite as this will seal the connection for sure.
It sounds like you are going through the same issue I had when working on an 80's Cheby van with a 350. The guy I was working for wanted it to run but hated spending money. I did what I could because he would not take it to a mechanic to be fixed properly. Turned out to be a cracked quadraflush housing. I am not a mechanic and I know where my limitations are on working on vehicles, I know enough to do basic repair work, that is almost enough to get me into trouble.
Take your time and do it right, it is much cheaper that way. And since the brakes are an, at least somewhat , important part of the vehicle, you might be better served to take it to a shop if you get stumped.
It sounds like a big task but goes quickly. If a line or connection looks suspicious then replace it. When replacing the lines connect them using a very small amount of blue loctite as this will seal the connection for sure.
It sounds like you are going through the same issue I had when working on an 80's Cheby van with a 350. The guy I was working for wanted it to run but hated spending money. I did what I could because he would not take it to a mechanic to be fixed properly. Turned out to be a cracked quadraflush housing. I am not a mechanic and I know where my limitations are on working on vehicles, I know enough to do basic repair work, that is almost enough to get me into trouble.
Take your time and do it right, it is much cheaper that way. And since the brakes are an, at least somewhat
, important part of the vehicle, you might be better served to take it to a shop if you get stumped.I've Ben working cars since I was a wee little kid lol I'm 18 now, I restored my previous truck...so I know a thing or two ;D but anyways I sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb and over some vacuum line clumps and sure enough the engines Idle went up slightly. Guess ill go replace some vacuum lines tonight and try an locate a carb rebuild kit for the carb.
#17
10-21-2012, 09:34 PM
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right on man!!! Good job finding the vac leaks.....(my Dad always told me to check the easy & cheep things first) Once you get those vacuum leaks fixed, I bet that erratic idle behavior goes away also! and once you get the vac leaks fixed you might have to readjust the idle...people sometimes just adjust the idle to correct a vacuum leak, which the guy that owned it before you might have done? him not knowing about the leaks.... I would fix the vac leaks first before the carb rebuild (carb might not need it) But if it does, a rebuild kit for that truck is only around $20.00-$25.00 bucks...let me know how it goes??
#18
10-21-2012, 09:39 PM
right on man!!! Good job finding the vac leaks.....(my Dad always told me to check the easy & cheep things first) Once you get those vacuum leaks fixed, I bet that erratic idle behavior goes away also! and once you get the vac leaks fixed you might have to readjust the idle...people sometimes just adjust the idle to correct a vacuum leak, which the guy that owned it before you might have done? him not knowing about the leaks.... I would fix the vac leaks first before the carb rebuild (carb might not need it) But if it does, a rebuild kit for that truck is only around $20.00-$25.00 bucks...let me know how it goes??
#19
10-21-2012, 11:22 PM
#20
10-21-2012, 11:25 PM