Also to add my personality into the truck, I modified a sub box that probably held two 12's and was twice as big as it is now and made fit two 10's and fit behind my seat also gonna get some red led strips from Wally World and mount them alog side the truck and one in the grill and add some fog lights in the grill area top, may sound a bit confusing but it will look sweet I think maybe have a this all done by next week earliest Sunday night, lol thanks for the help oldiebutgoodie, really do appreciate.

 

Ok got a carb kit answer for ya...That carb number didnt cross refrence with any charts I have! But I was still able to find the kit for it......Auto-zone has it for $20.00 bucks and there part number for the kit is #96-516 ..... Napa also has it, but they want $36.49 for it, and there part number is #2-5332 But if you have a car-quest, advanced auto, etc. you can have them cross reference those numbers for you to there number for the kit.....

Now for that other item on the carb.. its the "Idle stop solenoid ". that other thing your talking about is an IAC. but those are only on throttle body carbs (88 & up)....And if yours is a 87 year model it should just be naturally asperated and not a Throttle body carb ( throttle body carb has injectors in the carb) yours should not have A TPS, or MAP sensor or any of that stuff.... But regardless, that Idle stop solenoid in the picture is not serviceable. just replaceable....runs about $80.00 bucks, oouuchhh.... I did find some on e-bay for $30.00-$40.00 new + free shipping. just go to e-bay and cut and paste this in Standard Motor Products Carburetor Idle Stop Solenoid... and make sure its for your year model and make.....junk yards will have em to( but your taking a chance with those)
And it is possible that that is the issue if its bad!! You might be able to test it with a Ohm meter for continuity flow or run 12 volts to it to test it

 

Alright thanks for the carb info. So is there anyway to like bypass the ITS? But I did notice a slight improvement on the hesitating. It doesn't do it as bad as before, but still does it I took it out just awhile ago and it back fires if you get on it hard and let off real quick. Could the cat conv be a prob also?

This week I plan on buying : an amp to go with subs, wiring kit for amp (if needed), carb rebuild kit, and some vac lines and clamps. Also a gasket for we're the radiator hose connects to intake (forgot its name :0 ) lol

 

Does it backfire out the carb or the tail pipe? does it do it worse when cold or warmed up?? could be that the timing is off (retarded) a bit...many things can cause a backfire, BUT, on these trucks (3.9) there was a common problem with the distributor gear wearing out prematurely and plate working itself loose inside the distributor...pop off the cap and do a visual inspection inside, make sure the 2 screws holding down the plate are not loose, Also, make sure the rotor does not move to much to the right or left....If all that checks out OK.......then>>>
Try this just for grins>>>> #1. Loosen the distributor hold down bracket just enough to turn the distributor(not to loose) you want to have to turn it pretty hard to get it to turn...#2. make a mark so you know where to put it back to when your done (just encase this dont fix it) #3. turn the dist counter clockwise about 1/4 of an inch and see if it is any better??? if so, repeat same process again until you reach that sweet spot in engine power(should not need to move it anymore than 1/2" inch......Do all this and then get back to me with the results (then we will go to the next thing)

Also, I dont think the ITS switch can be bypassed....And the name of the other part the radiator hose connects to is the thermostat housing gasket..lol...put a new thermostat in it while you have it off, its cheep....And good job on the carpentry skills with the customized amp box!!

 

It backfires sort of in the middle of the tailpipe from the best i can tell. It diesnt reallly get worse, it just does it when you punch the throttle. But I will try your steps when I get in from school later ( Seinor This Year WOOOOHOOOO) lol and I couldn't remember for the life of me lol But I will add the gasket and thermo to my list for things to buy at the end of he week, and thanks man!

 

Boyyyy what a difference that made!!! felt great, didn't hesitate or back fire at all, ran slick as a ribbon thanks man for the tips an tricks! Even got a lil tire smoke coming off a stop sign but other than that not really much left to to. The brake light does stay on for some reason? The brake lights also stay lit if you don't pull pedal all way up.

 

Sweeeettt!!! Glad to hear it!!! COME or I was determined not to give up on it!!!

Now for the annoying brake light staying on....
#1. If light goes off when you pull up on the pedal, sounds like the pedal switch just needs adjusted...or, You can also just push the pedal down and release it multiple times letting it slam up over & over again. and that will sometimes fix it!! (thats called the fonzee fix...) lol

 

Yes sir!!!! Lol I'll try adjusting it tomorrow and the old school trick too haha sadly I could not get a working amp tonight:/ hopefully get one tomorrow

 

Is there a way to change the gauge clusters lights? I want a neon blue or something. Just a thought....lol

 

You can, not sure if you can get it lit the same way as factory without dumping different gauges in though, least from the pictures I have seen of it everything is the same color down to the needles.