Fi air gap / m1 / cam timing ?
 

hi guys well for Christmas my lovely gf got me some parts for my truck and i got the mopar performance double roller timeing chain set and i got the money for a huges fi air gap or a mopar m1 intake know from what i read with these intakes you loose a considerable amount of low end but you gain a lot up top now would it be a good idea to advance the cam timeing 4% to try to make up for the loss in the low end? and on top of that what would be a better choice for an intake the m1 or thr fi air gap?

Just my 2 sense. ive got an M1 and I really enjoy it. Dyno charts on Hughes engines shows that the Airgap makes good low end power and has a more rounded torque curve, but seems to start sloping off above 5k rpm. I don't know how high you plan to spin your truck up, but I have my limiter set at 6k and I make very solid power top end. also, is your truck mostly stock? all stock? do you have any future plans for it?

iam NOT a camshaft expert. but i have read that moving the cam advance or retarded does not get more power it just rocks off of the highest torque point. advanced shifts the torque to the bottom end. and retarded shifts it to the top end. 2 degree 4 degrees are fine. DO NOT try 6 degrees.

well i know you dont gain more power your just changing the curve of it to hit sooner or later bus as for upgrades
1. 1.7 harland sharp rr
2.mp double roller timeing chain
3.full exhaust
4.ported and shaved heads
5.mp pcm
6.jb conversions sye kit transfer case!
7. 52mm tb
8.march performance pulleys alt,wp,ps and crank
9.hughes high performance lifters
10. m1 or fi air depending witch one to buy
11. full msd ignition system
12. electric fans
13. emissions delete/ ac as well
and thats what i have for the motor untill i decide witch intake to get whole susspension is upgraded to the fullest extent it can be but i do have a custom fit ford 8.8 posi over the chry 8.25 lsd the tranny is a nv3500 with a hurst short throw.

DakotaKid,
I'd go with the M1 over the FI-Airgap. It's a Single Plane setup and not a Dual Plane like the FI. It's a bit better on lower end, and it's what I'd like to go with someday.

The purpose of the roller rockers is to get you more lift from the camshaft. If you get a new camshaft, then that eliminates the need to go with 1.7 ratio rockers, unless you get a cam with just a little lift. You might consider the Harland Sharp 1.6 rockers instead. The problem with the stock rockers is they are stamped metal, and the Harland Sharps are rollers, meaning there is a lot less friction in your valvetrain, which frees up more horsepower at the wheels for you.

Don't adjust your timing on the camshaft, keep it stock. Do install your new timing chain though!

I have a Hughes HER0814AL camshaft, it gives .512 lift on the intake. I don't have a use for it and am looking to get something else. You can PM me if you are interested.

One more thing, I believe the stock lifters are 2.368" from the roller to the pushrod seat, and the lifters you have (I have the same ones), are 2.318". You'll need to get some longer push rods to make up for the difference in length.

do you mean longer push rods?

Yes, I mean push rods, don't know how rockers got in there... I edited my answer above to make it correct.

I have the Hughes FI intake on an otherwise stock engine and love it. And I picked up some "seat of the pants" bottom end and it rolls out pretty good on the highway running between 55-80+ mph no complaints here. Added K&N air filter in stock box and a flow-thru performance cat and turbo muffler. May do a modded throttle body next, also have a TranGo valve body kit for towing. Gets the job done for me...for now anyway

@4 Banger


I have a throttle body that I am planning to sell. its either 2x55 or 2x58. I believe I got it from F&B. ive had it about 3 years 5 years but the truck hasn't moved too much in the last 3 because im military. I paid around $345. looking to sell it for $220. I also have a 4 barrel to 2 barrel throttle body adapter that i'll throw in for another $20