1988 Intermediate Shaft
 

Well, I pulled the trigger today.

Ordered the 2- U-Joint and 18" Shaft kit from Classic Performance Products that they have on Ebay ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/262287912553 ).

I measured both ends; both are 3/4-36 splined shafts (well, 9 splines in 90*, so I presume 36, not 30 ... ) and it's about 14" between the two U-joints, so a 18" shaft will fit just fine; it will have to be cut down to the proper length, AAMOF.

I'll keep this going to let others know how well it fits and works.

I make no guarantee that this will fit any other year model motor transmission combo *grins* but hey, the methods should work for any year that there's not an intermediate shaft available for.

RwP

Hmmm.. I'll have to try this for my 95.

Ralph, I look forward to updates on this as well! What year is your truck, and also, is it 4WD?

Heh. Thought I had specified that, I mean, !I! know that *grins*

1988, 2WD, LWB RC, 3 speed auto, tilt column.

Any and all of those may alter the exact parts; the methodogy, however, will be the same.

RwP

Yes, I would think the big difference would be the 2wd has rack and pinion steering vs 4wd being recirculating ball. But honestly, I have not looked at how it attaches on my 4wd. If you want any picture to compare, let me know.
Again, look forward to your write up!!

Heh. !I! won't need the compare; the difference would probably be a) the total length and b) the U-joint at the steering box end. And that could be measured by someone who's interested.

RwP

Kit made it in today.

I have pictures of one of the U-joints on the Rack Doctor rack I'm also installing; and one of all three pieces on the RD box.

Here they are for your enjoyment.

RwP

I was perusing the CPP catalog; turns out they also have a) collapsible shafts; b) couplers with rag joints (to help keep the isolation that the rag joint provides); c) a few other types of couplers.

The Ebay bundle actually saved me about $10 is all; anyone looking may want to check out the rag joints et al for their shaft.

Today is off and on rain; we're forecast to get 3 to 5 inches (!!) between today and Sunday, so I won't be out working on the truck, I don't think.

RwP

Status update.

This past week I was so busy with register replacements (they start at 5 AM, can take up to 12 hours to do a full store of up to 4 registers ... YeOUCH!) that I didn't get much if anything done.

Today, I measured the new parts, and marked where I wanted them cut off.

I also found a shop to cut it, but alas, they were headed out today; so I will get it probably Monday.

It should be in by the end of the week.

Photos and measurements coming, I promise!

RwP

Finally got the shaft it; I measured it about 1/2" to 3/4" too LONG.

Well, that's fixable *grins*

Stepson will trim with an angle grinder so I can try to fit again tomorrow.

But for the visually interested, here's a few pics.

Pics of "As Installed" will be up by this weekend, I PROMISE!

RwP

looking forward to the updates!!

Well this is good timing. As most of you know, I replaced damn near every wear part on my truck during my restoration. Well the steering shaft is one thing I didn't touch, and it figures that now it's starting to fail. Lower u joint has a significant amount of play, the upper one has a little. Looking forward to the update.

Stepson dropped the shaft off - I'll be putting it in tomorrow.

I picked up some shorter set screws I'll LockTite in instead of the longer ones with the lock nuts.

RwP

I just measured it - it's at 12 3/8"; if you cut, 12 1/4" may be a better trim.

12" might fit perfectly if you can get one that length.

Edit: I just went cruising through Ebay; they have one supplier that can sell a 12" shaft for $10 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-DD-Steeri...-/172051728756

Add to that two 3/4-36 x 3/4-DD U-joints, http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-36-Splin...-/252081268171 .

Looks like a ready to go can be obtained for under $85 ... the shaft is nominally a 18", but tell them and they'll ship a 12" for $6.50 plus shipping.

Note: All prices as of December 2016 for anyone cruising later.

RwP

Shaft is IN!

It feels nice with the newly reman'ed rack and the column that's been rebuilt.

Pics are attached of it installed; I have another set screw to dog down (I bought some at Tractor Supply at 3/8" and 1/2" - all 5/16-18 - so I wouldn't have as much sticking out, and I used blue Permatex thread locker to help them stay in place).

CPP does have a DD shaft with a rag joint at the bottom if those following wished to keep the rag joint (it helps to isolate the wheel from the road a bit; this might be even more desirable on a R&P design since they are, by nature, low in irreversability ... )

The 12 3/8" shaft fits; 12 1/4" would also fit; but I don't think - now that it's together - a 12" exact shaft would work. It would be very, VERY tight on the set screws on the CPP U-joints. OTGH, I bet the people I linked to off Ebay would sell you a 12.25" or 12.38" shaft precut, in case (like me!) you don't have the tools to trim it properly.

RwP

Welp, looks like i'll have to pull mine off one of these days so i can count the splines and get some measurements. Tired of being able to turn my wheel nearly 1/4 of the way without the tires moving

SUPPOSEDLY - if it's a Mopar, it's 3/4-36. But yes, do verify spline count.

The steering is velvet smooth with the wheels up in the air *grins* I'll be powering it either today, or tomorrow, and getting the truck to the alignment shop Monday AM.

It was a small bear to get in; I found it out it helps if you dog one set screw each end on the DD shaft, then unbolt the shaft end of the rack (loosening up the passenger side) from the frame, and with that, you can get it lined up and on. Also, unlock the column so you can twist it back and forth.

I didn't get a pic, but there's a notch on the steering column spline that I buried that set screw in to make sure it was as tight as possible.

I'll probably pull the wheel and recenter it after the alignment, if I can persuade the alignment tech to not do the tie rod ends to recenter.

RwP

Hey Ralph

Looks good!! The 4wd looks similar. But the factory shaft seems to be in 2 pieces where one appears to slide into the other...... I would assume its for collision..... But I believe the same setup would work.
Thanks for posting along with the pictures.

Yah, mine was like that also (two pieces; probably to allow for a collapse in case of a collision.)

CPP does sell a collapsible DD shaft; lemme see if I can pull it up.

Here's a pic: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...PP1626-ADJ.htm

I'm sure other companies make them also.

Now, you'd have to trim BOTH shafts to get that to fit since the minimum is less than what I ended up with; I didn't even know about that, or I'd have tried it at least, to keep that safety factor.

Me? I just plan to avoid needing it to collapse by careful driving. Won't help ALL the time - I just about ended up with a Chevy Cruze hood ornament on my Cougar because some idjit decided to turn left in front of oncoming traffic (meaning the SuperDuty and my Cougar); luckily I stopped before that. (I SWEAR I was scuffing the dirt on that Cruze, it was so close ... but eh.)

RwP

Thanks Ralph. When I do this general procedure for my '93 4x4 I will also post up my specific findings.

I put about 75 miles on it today (now, remember, I also had the column touched and replaced the rack and power steering pump); it was smooth, steady, and had no noticable play.

The wandering the front end did, I could actually feel in the steering wheel.

Alas, the alignment shop was closed today; I doubt I can get it aligned in the hour margin I have tomorrow between when they open and when I must leave to head to Winnfield LA for a job, but I'll try.

RwP

RwP

Didn't get the front end aligned, so I had to drive to Winnfield LA and back home - about 215 miles round trip with the detour to pick up some medicine for the wife (still recovering from a 360* back surgery earlier this year.)

It bump steers a bit ... but there's zero, no, nil, none play in the steering now.

I'm almost afraid at how good it'll go after the alignment tomorrow (28 December).

RwP

I've been doing a little research and have a couple things to add. From what I gather from part numbers and mopar websites, this relates to steering from '88-'93. Not sure what changed after that or what was different in '87.

So this is what I found. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...d1bfec195e.png
-sorry, posting from my phone.

The diagram shows both 2wd and 4wd steering boxes, and the reference numbers are.. the same! The actual part numbers are:

04470092 - upper shaft (24 in diagram)
04470096 - lower shaft (25 in diagram)


One more thing to note. The 2wd lower joint makes a very sharp angle compared to the 4wd, point being that if the aftermarket joint Ralph used worked in his 2wd, it should with no.doubt work in a 4wd.


So conclusion is that Ralph's thread here should be directly useful for all Dakotas, 4wd and 2wd, from '88-'93 AT LEAST.

Heh. The 2WD may be sharper than the 4WD, but my 2WD is nowhere near as sharp as the angle in my stepson's 1991 Astro van.

Just as a comparision.

Hrm ... those lower parts may swap that entire range, but that upper housing isn't made like my steering column; although, if I'd been Chrysler, I'd have changed just the upper to support the clock spring and air bag.

RwP

Yeah perhaps I'm mistaken. It's such a rabbit hole to try to find the right OEM part numbers.

RalphP, it looks great. Simple and functional, and not mention much more reliable than the stock weak joints.

I saw this thread and figured I share my build as well. Mine is a 93 4wd and looking at your 88 it is very similar.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post3323028

Also there are the OEM parts catalogs in the FAQ in this section which lists all the part numbers.

Just pulled my truck apart over the weekend. Damn my upper joint was a pain to get off! I also only have a 36 spline joint on the steering box side. The upper side is DD on both sides of the joint. Surprised me. Every other Dakota i saw had the splines on both ends. Replaced my lower joint, need to order an upper now

95 SLT 4x4 v6 if anyone can confirm that they have the same joint as me instead of the splines

Mine is splined on my '93. I just finished replacing the shaft and two joints. How did you replace your lower joint? Mine just seems a permanent part of the shaft.

It was just held on with 2 set screws. The old joint has "Borgeson" stamped into it, so i assume it must have been replaced at some point. I have a new shaft, but i couldn't use it with the old upper joint.