318 is to common and does not stand out from the crowd in these trucks. Plus I wanted the extra factory displacement, more hidden power to tap into. Plus I got a really good deal on this motor with accessories and harness as well as low miles. So 318 vs 360 no brainer.

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Originally Posted by dakota1996 (Post 3325164)

You think it would really be that much of a budget with this motor to get everything done??? I can ask on the 2nd gen section too. And thanks for the info on the sct Ralph.

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This is the way I figure it,

$2,000 for the rotating assembly
$400 for the cam
$400 roller rockers
$2000 for alum. heads
$1800 (in my area) to have the block bored, decked, line honed, cleaned, install cam brgs, balance the new rotating assembly and clearance for it.

That does not include all the misc stuff, IE gaskets, timing set, lifters, pushrods, etc.

Then if you go from 250hp to 450-500 you will need larger injectors, (min)

Exhaust, this could be from $200 to past $2000 depending if you go stainless, use headers, etc. Also dont forget dual converters if you have to pass emissions, FWIW I believe if you try to build a motor of this size, and then run something similar to a factory exhaust, your going to be leaving a lot of power on the table, so IMO dual 2.5 in free flowing mufflers is a min. needed for that motor.

As far as intake, TB and tuning, to be honest, I have no idea on a dodge what to use. I do know that stuff gets real expensive, real fast.

If it was me, I would try to find someone who can tune the vehicle in person, with a dyno. Check references on who ever you use to tune, espically mail order tunes. A guy getting a tune for a stock displacement motor, with a mild cam, and exhaust is much more likely to be happy with mail order then something like the motor above.

If you end up going mail order tune, I would invest $200-$300 in a wide band gauge. That way you can make sure you are not too rich at idle, cruise, etc. And most important make sure you are not going lean at full throttle.

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Originally Posted by dakota1996 (Post 3325331)

Okay guys I did a little bit of research and considering extra things to go with the 408 and my current budget I'm debating on maybe holding off on the 408 till later down the road. My thoughts right now are what if I throw Myself a set of EQ heads, mild cam with possibly an f1 Hughes intake and then of course headers/exhaust. Would the factory fuel system probably be able to handle those mods and really wake the motor up?? And will the factory valve train handle a mild cam setup with no issues? Bc I read you can get EQ heads that the factory valve train parts fit and is still a power adder? Is this correct?

Thinking check cylinders while heads off and maybe roll in new crank bearings but other than that keep bottom end factory. As long as cylinders look healthy?

Think this would be a rather better budget?? With a good size difference?

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If this was mine, and I had a low mileage motor like you do, I would put it in stock, and get it running well on the stock computer.
You are switching from a V6 to a 5.9V8 There are going to be lots of little things to do, ie min. wire in 2 injectors, sensors, etc.

After you have it running well, then pull the heads and switch the cam.

This may be more work, but if you go and put a cam, heads, etc on this motor, put it in your truck with a new tune and it dont run right or at all, where is the problem? Is it the install incorrect, ie. some wire pinched, reversed, or not hooked up at all, or is it something in the tune. Remember you are going from a V6 to a V8. In my experience, tuners often blame the install rather then their tune. Getting a problem like this straightened out can get real expensive, especially when you are not able to figure it out yourself and have to pay labor.

That all being said, IMO the best bang for the buck I have seen is by a guy named Evan, and he goes by Magnummopar. He offers the EQ heads with upgraded valve spings, offers a cam regrind, and pushrods for around $1500.00 I would do that, go dual exhaust, and have it tuned.

BTW, I dont think anyone makes long tube headers for a V8 dakota, 4wd. And IMO there is very little if any gain with shortie headers. So a custom made dual exhaust is what I would do, and call it a day.

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Originally Posted by volaredon (Post 3325333)

360's over rated/ a good solid 318 will do the job just fine......

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Dont buy into the difference being 230hp vs 245. Compare dyno charts of both motors and look at the 40lbs more torque down in the lower rpm's.
Talk to people like crazy4x4rt who have actually switched to a 5.9. Ask them if there is a difference in a 5.2 vs 5.9

For performance, the big problem with the 5.9 is a very small cam and weak valve springs. The reason most change the heads as well, most are cracked, and the EQ heads are a superior design, and cheap. But again, the big problem is the cam and springs.

Thank you for all the input guys! And 93rag I appreciate the opinion kind of thinking I may just put new gaskets like oil pan and valve cover and intake gaskets basic stuff like that and paint the motor and install it as a factory 360 for now and see how everything operates when it's done. Unsure right now if since the motor is stock if I should keep the factory manifold's for now or not. I don't wanna lose alot of torque or nothing like that yunno.

Turns out the kegger isn't a bad intake for low end torque ...

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/performance/manifolds.html

Also, swapping the intake isn't all THAT hard on the Magnums.

RwP

Very interesting write up! I'll keep the stocker for now but what I was really talking about was exhaust manifold

Oh.

Heh.

Well, until you find some nice long tubes, I wouldn't bother if you can find some 1992/1993 exhaust manifolds to go on it (too lazy, don't know what year you have and if it's out of a Dakota or a Ram).

If you can't, then some shorties might help a small bit. Nothing fantastic; you'll do better running true duals all the way back (no "Y"s); possibly with an X or H pipe in the run (for low end, I understand a X pipe works better; shucks, use a dual-in-dual-out muffler and THAT'S taken care of!)

But it does sound like an interesting build.

Just FWIW - I can swap the exhaust manifolds on my 1988 Dakota with the 3.9 fairly quickly now; I don't imagine it'd be much if any harder with a 5.9 in a later Gen1.

RwP

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Originally Posted by dakota1996 (Post 3327063)

Thank you for all the input guys! And 93rag I appreciate the opinion kind of thinking I may just put new gaskets like oil pan and valve cover and intake gaskets basic stuff like that and paint the motor and install it as a factory 360 for now and see how everything operates when it's done. Unsure right now if since the motor is stock if I should keep the factory manifold's for now or not. I don't wanna lose alot of torque or nothing like that yunno.

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When you pull pans to change gaskets, look at the timing chain. Seems they are a weak link in these motors.
Also, do your homework when you decide to modify, ie, compression, cams, etc. Make sure you are going to be able to get it tuned to work well and not just run. FWIW the site magnumswap.com does not recommend the stock EFI system for anything other then stock or slightly modified. Their suggestion is an aftermarket system such as fast, accell, megasquirt, etc. Or go with a carb.

Good luck and keep us posted. I enjoy reading what you are doing and picking up tips from you as well!

I had actually decided I was going to go ahead and change the timing chain and timing gasket and water pump and all of that stuff. Just change it factory. I will keep everybody updated on the progress and I will probably when I start modding it alot purchase an aftermarket mpi injection set up.