Removing O2 sensor...is it possible?
 

So I need to replace the O2 sensor on my '93. It's the original sensor and it has outlasted one crumbled frame already. So needless to say it is RUSTED. Best I got to heat it with is a MAPP torch, no oxy available to me. I've got the O2 sockets I need but I've already tried those and it's a sure thing that I'm going to need heat. You guys have any success getting it out with a MAPP torch?

My alternative is that I do have a welder so theoretically...I could weld a new bung in. I'd really rather not do that though.

Are you using a socket to remove it? Sorry, but I dont know where its located on the magnum series trucks. Can you get a impact wrench to it? Honestly, I have never had a problem getting them out.

Chemicals are your friend. Soak it with PB Blaster a couple times a day, for a couple days. Then, put a big pipe wrench on it. SMACK the pipe wrench with a hammer to get the sensor to break loose, and then it will come out fairly easy.

Shouldn't be that difficult, I sprayed on some liquid wrench, and hit it with a wrench not even an impact and that thing was the original 24 yr old.

I wonder, would removing it all together cause any funny issues, aside from a CEL?

You actually WANT that O2 sensor in there. That is the sensor most responsible for better gas mileage.

Basically how your engine works is when it is cold, it runs based off of premade fuel lookup tables, injecting enough fuel required based on engine temp, air temp, manifold pressure, and throttle position. This is pretty close to what's required but you'll probably be running a bit rich.

Once you're up to operating temp and the oxygen sensor can be trusted you enter closed loop mode, where it injects a set amount of fuel based on the table, and the oxygen sensor can then say whether it was to rich, lean or just right. Then it will trim your fuel tables to adjust how much fuel is injected to get the leaner mixture possible for the given conditions.

Without an oxygen sensor you'll most likely run but run quite rich at all times. In the end you can test it out yourself just unplug it and see how it runs Although I wouldn't recommend running without one unless you enjoy buying fuel

So this is with a swapped motor, V8 318 replacing the V6 that was in here. The V6 had a stalling issue. When I would push the clutch in sometimes the rpms would drop and the engine would die. I could rev it a couple times to keep it running.

Now the same exact problem is occuring with the V8, same frequency, same symptoms. The kicker is that ALL of the engine bay wiring harness and PCM is from the V8. That leaves the O2 and 4x4 sensors as basically the only electrical components remaining from the V6. And the V8 donor truck had no such stalling tendencies. That on top of an intermittent check engine light which-surprise surprise-is an O2 code, I'm reasonably certain that the O2 sensor is causing my stalling issue. Gotta get the darn thing out. Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have a full O2 sensor socket set but I need to add heat and penetrating oil too.

Which code is it?

Code 21

remove the bolts that hook the y pipe to the manifolds, unhook all of your exhaust hangers, drop the exhaust down and back enough so that you can get the torch on it to heat it up and get enough room to throw an impact on it