Stubborn Noise
#42
#44
I can't tell from the angle but the bushings that come with shocks have a portion that goes into the hole where the shaft slides through to hold it straight. I've seen them with those towards the metal washer rather than in the opening on the mount.
I'm trying to remember the last time I worked on a Dakota. I would remove the top nut and washer and make sure the rubber bushing is properly. I would support the frame on a jackstand and remove the wheel. Then raise the rotor and knuckle assembly with a jack for clearance. Put a small flat adjustable crescent wrench on the flat part to hold it then use a ratcheting box end to tighten the nut down.
The rubber should be as wide as the metal washer when you are done. I'd check the bottom of the shock too while I was at it.
I'm trying to remember the last time I worked on a Dakota. I would remove the top nut and washer and make sure the rubber bushing is properly. I would support the frame on a jackstand and remove the wheel. Then raise the rotor and knuckle assembly with a jack for clearance. Put a small flat adjustable crescent wrench on the flat part to hold it then use a ratcheting box end to tighten the nut down.
The rubber should be as wide as the metal washer when you are done. I'd check the bottom of the shock too while I was at it.
Last edited by ol' grouch; 03-13-2022 at 01:23 PM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn
#45
Originally Posted by ol' grouch;[url=tel:3539564
3539564]I can't tell from the angle but the bushings that come with shocks have a portion that goes into the hole where the shaft slides through to hold it straight. I've seen them with those towards the metal washer rather than in the opening on the mount.
I'm trying to remember the last time I worked on a Dakota. I would remove the top nut and washer and make sure the rubber bushing is properly. I would support the frame on a jackstand and remove the wheel. Then raise the rotor and knuckle assembly with a jack for clearance. Put a small flat adjustable crescent wrench on the flat part to hold it then use a ratcheting box end to tighten the nut down.
The rubber should be as wide as the metal washer when you are done. I'd check the bottom of the shock too while I was at it.
I'm trying to remember the last time I worked on a Dakota. I would remove the top nut and washer and make sure the rubber bushing is properly. I would support the frame on a jackstand and remove the wheel. Then raise the rotor and knuckle assembly with a jack for clearance. Put a small flat adjustable crescent wrench on the flat part to hold it then use a ratcheting box end to tighten the nut down.
The rubber should be as wide as the metal washer when you are done. I'd check the bottom of the shock too while I was at it.
I’m planning to remove the shock and reinstall it. So yes, I will be taking the bottom off too. Would be good opportunity to see if there are scratches on that shaft.
Am I correct in assuming you secured the bottom of the shock first then ensured the top bushing was properly lined up above before cinching down the top?
I can’t recall what those upper bushings looked like but at least one of them had that portion that sticks through the hole like you described. Again, am I assuming that would be the lower off the two bushings that goes up top (facing up into the hole)??
I’m gonna try to have some regular nuts on hand before diving into it. Another trip to Home Depot. I live there.
Last edited by bronze; 03-13-2022 at 02:38 PM.
#46
That’s part of my thinking too Grouch. It’s possible I have the bushing upside down or the part that is supposed to go in the hole is sitting off to the side. Add that it isn’t tight enuf (evidenced by the fact that the upper bushing is not mushroomed out) and that could be my problem.
I’m planning to remove the shock and reinstall it. So yes, I will be taking the bottom off too. Would be good opportunity to see if there are scratches on that shaft.
Am I correct in assuming you secured the bottom of the shock first then ensured the top bushing was properly lined up above before cinching down the top?
I can’t recall what those upper bushings looked like but at least one of them had that portion that sticks through the hole like you described. Again, am I assuming that would be the lower off the two bushings that goes up top (facing up into the hole)??
I’m gonna try to have some regular nuts on hand before diving into it. Another trip to Home Depot. I live there.
I’m planning to remove the shock and reinstall it. So yes, I will be taking the bottom off too. Would be good opportunity to see if there are scratches on that shaft.
Am I correct in assuming you secured the bottom of the shock first then ensured the top bushing was properly lined up above before cinching down the top?
I can’t recall what those upper bushings looked like but at least one of them had that portion that sticks through the hole like you described. Again, am I assuming that would be the lower off the two bushings that goes up top (facing up into the hole)??
I’m gonna try to have some regular nuts on hand before diving into it. Another trip to Home Depot. I live there.
I've done so many shocks over the years, I can't keep track. Most Dodge truck use two bolts from the bottom and a top stud on the shaft. I generally do the top first then before I torque it down, I raise the bottom of the shock and install the bolts. Then I finish the top.
On the top, there are usually two cupped washers, two rubber bushings and one or two nuts. With the shock out, if one washer has a larger hole than the other one, put it on the shaft. The two rubber bushing look sort of like a cake with a second, smaller layer. Slide one rubber bushing down onto the lower washer. You want the smaller part sticking into the opening in the upper mount. The second bushing has the smaller part down into the opening meeting the lower one. The other metal washer goes on top and the nut tightens it down. Wiggle it a bit to make sure the smaller part of the bushings seat properly. There should have been an instruction sheet with the shocks.
#47
Originally Posted by ol' grouch;[url=tel:3539588
3539588[/url]]I've done so many shocks over the years, I can't keep track. Most Dodge truck use two bolts from the bottom and a top stud on the shaft. I generally do the top first then before I torque it down, I raise the bottom of the shock and install the bolts. Then I finish the top.
On the top, there are usually two cupped washers, two rubber bushings and one or two nuts. With the shock out, if one washer has a larger hole than the other one, put it on the shaft. The two rubber bushing look sort of like a cake with a second, smaller layer. Slide one rubber bushing down onto the lower washer. You want the smaller part sticking into the opening in the upper mount. The second bushing has the smaller part down into the opening meeting the lower one. The other metal washer goes on top and the nut tightens it down. Wiggle it a bit to make sure the smaller part of the bushings seat properly. There should have been an instruction sheet with the shocks.
On the top, there are usually two cupped washers, two rubber bushings and one or two nuts. With the shock out, if one washer has a larger hole than the other one, put it on the shaft. The two rubber bushing look sort of like a cake with a second, smaller layer. Slide one rubber bushing down onto the lower washer. You want the smaller part sticking into the opening in the upper mount. The second bushing has the smaller part down into the opening meeting the lower one. The other metal washer goes on top and the nut tightens it down. Wiggle it a bit to make sure the smaller part of the bushings seat properly. There should have been an instruction sheet with the shocks.
There was an instruction sheet with the shocks. I’m not kidding, it was one of the worst instruction sheets I have ever seen. Reading Cro-Magnon cave walls would be easier. I could not figure out their instruction sheet to save my life. And I have a masters degree.
#48
Excellent info! So the smaller layers on the bushings should be kissing thru the mount hole. Got it!
There was an instruction sheet with the shocks. I’m not kidding, it was one of the worst instruction sheets I have ever seen. Reading Cro-Magnon cave walls would be easier. I could not figure out their instruction sheet to save my life. And I have a masters degree.
There was an instruction sheet with the shocks. I’m not kidding, it was one of the worst instruction sheets I have ever seen. Reading Cro-Magnon cave walls would be easier. I could not figure out their instruction sheet to save my life. And I have a masters degree.
Yes, the smaller parts meet in the middle. If you want to talk about bad instructions, I'm working on a shed with minimal wording on an illustrated sheet. There was a VERY detailed sheet with it. Completely in Chinese pictographs.
I think you're on the right track looking at that shock.
#49
Originally Posted by ol' grouch;[url=tel:3539592
3539592[/url]]Yes, the smaller parts meet in the middle. If you want to talk about bad instructions, I'm working on a shed with minimal wording on an illustrated sheet. There was a VERY detailed sheet with it. Completely in Chinese pictographs.
I think you're on the right track looking at that shock.
I think you're on the right track looking at that shock.
Of course they don’t tell you the nut size. Based on what hardware and dies I have it’s either 3/8-24 or M10-1.00 or M10-1.25 (of which I have every size but these). I’ll get 4 of each. Cheap enuf. One of them will fit.
Appreciate the help Grouch.
#50
Hahaha, that pretty much describes the KYB instruction sheet. There were no words. Only pictures without detail. For example, they did not show how the layered bushings were oriented. It was just a generic black blob. I assumed the smaller side went in the hole (doesn’t mean I didn’t screw up and put them in backwards anyway). To make matters worse they had about 8 or 10 different types of mount illustrations for all their shocks and struts. It was flat out dizzening.
Of course they don’t tell you the nut size. Based on what hardware and dies I have it’s either 3/8-24 or M10-1.00 or M10-1.25 (of which I have every size but these). I’ll get 4 of each. Cheap enuf. One of them will fit.
Appreciate the help Grouch.
Of course they don’t tell you the nut size. Based on what hardware and dies I have it’s either 3/8-24 or M10-1.00 or M10-1.25 (of which I have every size but these). I’ll get 4 of each. Cheap enuf. One of them will fit.
Appreciate the help Grouch.