New fender flares
#11
you are lucky! the salt on the roads here eats small cars for breakfast! lol. the factory flares seemed to catch and hold the crap and by the time i got the truck.... ugh...
im hoping to get the paint finished up pretty soon(busy with the whole maple syrup season up here), then if it passes inspection(might take a case of beer or so....shhhhh lol) ill be driving it. its just getting rattle canned as im sure the tires will throw rocks and mud and be quite hard on paint when i go offroading. going black with a blue stripe pattern on the back similar to the dodge rumble bee. im actually painting it with rust paint
im hoping to get the paint finished up pretty soon(busy with the whole maple syrup season up here), then if it passes inspection(might take a case of beer or so....shhhhh lol) ill be driving it. its just getting rattle canned as im sure the tires will throw rocks and mud and be quite hard on paint when i go offroading. going black with a blue stripe pattern on the back similar to the dodge rumble bee. im actually painting it with rust paint
Last edited by 95_318SLT; 03-17-2009 at 01:22 AM.
#12
yeah, i couldnt see how a professional paint job would be worth it since it would just get chipped and scratched(plus i need to get my bike back together for the race season)
any tips on painting in the cold?(10C/ 50F) or just "dont be dumb make the work area warm"?
im having issues in a few places with the paint going all rough and having a bunch of tiny cracks/bubbles(very wierd) i think it may be temp related, but im not a painter. i cleaned everything with brake clean before i sprayed... i scraped one area off, it had 2 coats of black on top of primer(same brands of paint) and it was pretty soft even though it "looked dry" and had set for 24hrs. i actually sanded the rough part a bit and sprayed it again, but it went worse. the brake clean might have something to do with it too?
any tips on painting in the cold?(10C/ 50F) or just "dont be dumb make the work area warm"?
im having issues in a few places with the paint going all rough and having a bunch of tiny cracks/bubbles(very wierd) i think it may be temp related, but im not a painter. i cleaned everything with brake clean before i sprayed... i scraped one area off, it had 2 coats of black on top of primer(same brands of paint) and it was pretty soft even though it "looked dry" and had set for 24hrs. i actually sanded the rough part a bit and sprayed it again, but it went worse. the brake clean might have something to do with it too?
#13
It doesn't sound temp related, cold just makes it take forever to dry. It sounds like the metal is contaminated. Clean it with somthing other than brake cleaner, like a paint prep spray... you can find it at most any auto parts store. Clean it very very well, and do not touch the surface with your bare hands (the oils in your hands can cause paint to lift). After you clean it with a cleaner, go back over it with a tack cloth. Also, any parts of it that lifted, sand it back down to the metal, cause even if you get it looking smooth, it will eventually come back through if the metal is contaminated. Just keep in mind that prep work is the most important part of a paint job.
As for the temp, if you can get your garage up to 70 deg F that would be the best temp, cause it sounds like the paint is not curing. If it still feels soft after 24 hours, chances are it will stay soft.
As for the temp, if you can get your garage up to 70 deg F that would be the best temp, cause it sounds like the paint is not curing. If it still feels soft after 24 hours, chances are it will stay soft.
Last edited by 95_318SLT; 03-17-2009 at 03:06 PM.
#16
sorry bump and old post and quote the wrong post, but can anyone make the img links above work? I know there was a work around someone mentioned but I forget how.. Id like to compare these to mine I got yesterday.