So I've mentioned several times I'm building a 408 stroker for my truck that I hope to have completed by mid-December in time to swap during xmas break. I finally got the pistons today, so I decided to go ahead and start the official build thread (even though it will be a long, drawn out project, I figure if I can keep this thread up to date that will be less to type up in the end)...

I got the 360 from a guy selling it on craigslist for $250. It was out of a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and complete from the throttle body down to the oil pan, but it had blown a head gasket at 140,000 miles. When the head gasket blew, it appears to have burned the number 1 piston and scarred the cylinder. I knew it when I bought it so I was already counting on having to get it bored .030 over. I got it home and on an engine stand and tore it down. Then I went back and forth for a couple weeks deciding what to do with it... build a 365 or 408 (some of you might remember that thread). Well as it turned out, both build choices at the time required buying pistons that were on backorder, so I had plenty of time to think about it... 408 won!

Bare block (except the motor mounts are still on :P )
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Original rotating assembly parts
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Scarred #1 cyl
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I ordered 0.030 overbore Keith Black Hypereutectic stroker pistons from hugesengines.com. http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...j&partid=10462

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Old Pistons...

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New Pistons...

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I finally found someone to buy my automatic tranmission from me, so when I get that money I'll order the stroker crank. I'm planning on getting this one... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=ESP-103604000

Once the crank gets here, I'll have everything I need to get the machining done that is neccessary to build the bottom end of the motor.

Like I said, I'll keep this thread updated as I go along, but for now this is all I have.

 

Sweet! It's a great start! What are you expecting to pay for the entire build when it's done? Can you give us a quick run down of a build of a 408. It's been a while I don't remember everything. Like a simple bore out and add parts or more work, like specialty machine work (besides normal stuff) to the engine like for any extra clearance or anything Else? What other plans do have to control the engine? The hand held unit we talk about before? Any upgrades to the tranny, injectors, anything else that I'm missing?

 

Lol... I guess I should have started by listing my plan in full...

From what I understand right now, a 408 only requires .030 overbore stroker pistons and a 4 inch crank. The connecting rods are the same, and from what I've read the 4 inch crank will have no clearance problems. A 416 is the highest you can go with a 4 inch crank (0.060 overbore), so anything higher would require clearancing a longer than 4 inch crank.

My planned build...

> Factory block bored .030 over, decked .030 (I think thats what you said the max is for decking right Crazy?) and factory connecting rods
> The pistons and crank listed above (the crank is internally balanced, unlike the factory crank that is externally balanced, so I SHOULD be able to use the flywheel that is on the 318... this was one of the big factors in my decision to go for the 408)
> This cam... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku
> These rocker arms (will put that cam at 510 lift)... http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku
> These heads (gonna take me some time to save up for them)... http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=25495
> Then there is the obvious new bearings, oil pump, water pump, etc.

For the intake, I plan on using the original intake with the keggar mod (almost done with that). I also have cheap pacesetter headers to go with it. The intake and headers are actually going to be sitting on the 318 in a couple weeks and stay there until I get the 408 done and ready to swap. There's no reason to have performance mods laying around the garage when they can go ahead and be put to use :P

For the computer, I'm planning on getting this flash from bgperformacepcm.com...
__________________________________________________ ________________

B&G 408 Truck Flash (92-95 SBEC) (96-03 JTEC) - $350 flashed PCM or Flashed into Handheld ($650) includes shipping (Ground) (*)

This PCM upgrade is designed for vehicles that have installed “Stroked Motors” or highly modified with big cam or larger then stock injectors.

Revised premium fuel & timing tables (to accommodate big cam/large injectors)
Shift points raised to 5800 rpm
Rev limit raised to 6500 rpm
Torque management removed
Speed limit raised 140 mph
__________________________________________________ ________________
My current schedule is to have the machining work finished and the short block assembly done by the end of summer, after which I'll start saving up for the heads, cam, etc. Any more questions, don't hesitate to ask (although this is my first build and I won't even pretend to know everything about it until it's finished).

I'm thinking the entire build is going to be between $2500 and $3000. The biggest factor that might significantly lower that number is if I decide when the time comes to stick with the factory heads and get them machined and new springs (only if I can't afford the Iron Ram heads).

As for upgrading the tranny, I'm hoping the NV3500 will handle the motor (which is why I did the swap in the first place), but I'll be looking at getting a high performance clutch. I have a lot of time to think about which one. I haven't given the injectors much thought.

 

As far as stock motor was .030 was the max. But with the stroker I'm not to sure where that would put the top of the piston when at TDC. But if you decide to use the stock heads you should also get them deck down .030. Again I'm not to sure if that will be to much compression for the 408.

Sounds like a sweet plan! I would also suggest getting the fastmans throttle body 53mm or the 55mm. and the M1 intake. Especially for this build. It will send more air down that 408 then stock could, even with the kegger. But again the price!

As for injectors, lots of guys are running the mustang 24lbs on stock engines. But the fastmans 408 dakota, I believe is only running stock 24lbs. I think!

 

Thats true about the decking... I should hold off on that till after the block is bored and I test fit the rotating assembly.

Yeah, I'd love the M1 Intake and fastman throttle body, but those would be an easy things to change after the motor is in the truck and broken in. I don't need too much power during the break-in period :P I'm a college student so I don't have a ton of spending money, but I still live at home, so I don't have a lot of expenses either. I doubt I'll have enough money to do much more than what I listed above. After the motor is built and running in the truck, I'll think about more performance upgrades.

What do you think about the NV3500? Do you think it'll handle the power? The numbers I'm really hoping for (I don't know how realistic this will be) are 400 hp and 450 ft*lbs of torque (I'll do a chassis dyno after the motor is broken in to see how close the numbers are to what I want them to be). I was thinking back when I first got the engine that once finished, I'd have to get the automatic rebuilt stronger. Then, when the pistons were on backorder and I had nothing that could be done to the motor, I saw that manual trans for sale and thought it would better handle the power than the 46rh and the swap was cheaper than rebuilding the 46rh!

 

I'm not to familiar with the NV3500. So All I know it did come on dodges V8's. So It should work. But for drag racing (The occasional weekend would be fine) it may not be the best option. But I know you take care of your stuff so It'll last. Ya maybe just a good clutch and your set! Just don't bleed the lines this time!

I would have bought your 46rh from you, if you were closer. An spare is always good to have.

 

LMAO!! You remember that one?! Yeah, I'll never take the hydraulic system apart again!

I mean my thoughts are what is there to break in a manual? The syncros and clutch wear out eventually, but you never really hear about the gears breaking. They have so many less parts to break than an auto.

As for drag racing, I may take it to the track once or twice, just to see what kind of times it will run, but if I were serious about drag racing I definately would have kept the automatic in it! Automatics are way more consistent.

 

God Damn! That sounds like it would be a Hell of a engine but would it fit or are you going to have the cut some of the metal out and change a bit up in the engine compartment

 

It's starting out as a 5.9 magnum which is externally the same as the 5.2. So no mods to anything under the hood is necessary.

 

hmm.. are you keeping the obdII computer from the 98? or did that come with the engine? I'm not sure how you can flash the computer from the 95, or use a tuner as that's OBDI. I have however, seen the performance chips that will alter the sensor signals to re-tune the computer outputs to the desired effect.

unless of you have a 95 1/2 w/ obdII (my uncle has a 95 1/2 lincoln that's 95% OBDII...)

oh yeah... what kind of compression you looking at? do you plan on running 87 or 93 pump?